Better than the DIY diff breather mod!

Mackalicious

New member
Just ordered this kit off amazon. It's a copy of the ARB breather kit for $40. Doing the math, it ends up being cheaper than DIYing the front and rear breathers, especially if you want to do the trans and tcase due to it having 4 available ports on the manifold. You'll just need to order more PTFE tubing and push connectors.

The DIY way is about $20 for fittings + tubing cost, per axle/component.


Amazon.com: 170112 Differential Axle Breather Kit for drivetrain assemblies, differentials, transmission and transfer case of 4x4 4WD vehicle: Automotive
 

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You just ordered it, but it's already better than the tried and true methods posted here in the forums for literally years now? Come back after you've got it installed and done some deep water crossings....

I do appreciate the link, but I'm skeptical of posts like these that offer a link to a product with few reviews, no work for the poster (that's you) and never having even installed the thing...
 
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I bookmarked it, in case it's good, but will reserve judgement right now. 'Polyethylene tubing' sounds janky, if that's what it really is.
Please let us know what you think, with photos if possible!
 
I bookmarked it, in case it's good, but will reserve judgement right now. 'Polyethylene tubing' sounds janky, if that's what it really is.
Please let us know what you think, with photos if possible!

Sure thing. :thumb3:

P.s. there's nothing wrong with using ptfe tubing for the vent. It's used all the time for air suspension. I use it on my other car to run a vacuum signal from my intake manifold to the wastegate on my rear mounted turbo setup. It's really temp resistant and durable, just be smart when routing.
 
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You just ordered it, but it's already better than the tried and true methods posted here in the forums for literally years now? Come back after you've got it installed and done some deep water crossings....

I do appreciate the link, but I'm skeptical of posts like these that offer a link to a product with few reviews, no work for the poster (that's you) and never having even installed the thing...

IMO the arb breather is proven already, which is literally the exact same item. It's a remote vent.

The diy and this will perform the exact same. My point was it being cheaper than the diy and a cleaner setup.

I'll post here when I get it installed and let everyone know how it is quality wise. Time will tell if it gets my stamp of approval.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QBQYNF0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_PE25Db5BHC78N
 
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I hope the build quality is the same, but I'm always skeptical of things that seem to good to be true. Hopefully the internal build quality is good enough and not just empty or crappy chinese valves. Where do you plan on mounting it?

Honestly the build quality couldn't be poor enough to work improperly. There doesn't need to be a valve in this. The only reason the OEM has a valve is to block dirt and other things from coming in. You could run a tube from your diff straight to your interior and achieve the same result.

I'm either going to mount the manifold under the hood or in the back interior behind a panel
 
Kinda contradicted yourself there. "There doesn't need to be a valve in this. The only reason the OEM has a valve is to block dirt and other things from coming in." "I'm either going to mount the manifold under the hood"

You don't think it needs a valve, but might be putting it in an area where dirt and water can get to it?

It needs a valve when located so low and exposed to the elements in the OEM application. When moving it to a cleaner, drier area, depending on the extent of the environment, none of that is needed. In the cabin, you could technically just run a tube and nothing on the end. Under the hood, you may want to run one of these or something else with a slight filter capability due to the possibility of dust ingress over time.

Also, do you think those OEM valves prevent water from entering if they get submerged? Like if you extend it the DIY way with a vent valve at the end, you cannot get water in it?
 
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Typically when you do the diy diff breather method you are supposed to remove the internal check valve on the vent cap. The reason you do the diff breather in the first place is not to prevent water from getting in the breather but to prevent all of the seals on your axles from sucking up water when your axle gets submerged in cold water (expansion/contraction with different temps). When the temp goes from hot to cold it creates a vacuum inside your axle. Also sometimes the oem breathers get stuck in the closed position and can make your seals leak.

All that being said I have the ARB breather kit installed and ran the front/rear/trans breathers to it. Didn’t find one on the tcase, looks like the trans/tcase might be combined? I have it mounted at the very top of the firewall on the driver side, I figured if I’m that far underwater I’m probably in trouble anyways lol.. Don’t really see anything wrong with your kit, I bet it comes with the brass fritted disc for the filter as well. Post your install when done.

Edit: just a heads up for the trans breather it was a pretty tight fit and I ended up using a couple push fit 90’s to prevent the tubing from kinking, These are what I ordered

8mm 5/16" Pneumatic 90 Degree Elbow Connector Hose Tube Push in Fitting Air 5pcs | eBay
 
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OP, are you planning on linking the transmission and transfer case breathers to this breather manifold? If so, I'd like to hear your experience in doing it.

Since I've had the transmission and transfer cases out of these rigs, I know how the breathers work. The breather for the transfer case starts off as a rubber line that's "U" shaped and connects to a void space between the transmission and transfer case. Above that void is a pressed in breather into the transmission. You can't unscrew it. I've heard that guys have pried off the cap and then connected a hose to the fitting pipe. But, I imagine you could just remove the rubber line off the transfer case side, plug it off somehow and then connect a breather hose from that fitting to your breather manifold.

For the transmission, it's another pressed in breather and I suppose you can break off the breather end and then connect a hose to that as well that leads back to your breather manifold.
 
OP, are you planning on linking the transmission and transfer case breathers to this breather manifold? If so, I'd like to hear your experience in doing it.

Since I've had the transmission and transfer cases out of these rigs, I know how the breathers work. The breather for the transfer case starts off as a rubber line that's "U" shaped and connects to a void space between the transmission and transfer case. Above that void is a pressed in breather into the transmission. You can't unscrew it. I've heard that guys have pried off the cap and then connected a hose to the fitting pipe. But, I imagine you could just remove the rubber line off the transfer case side, plug it off somehow and then connect a breather hose from that fitting to your breather manifold.

For the transmission, it's another pressed in breather and I suppose you can break off the breather end and then connect a hose to that as well that leads back to your breather manifold.

Yea I basically pried the breather cap off on the transmission and put the plastic hose over the little nipple. Used a hose clamp to secure it just to make sure it stays on.

So are the transmission and transfer case breathers linked together with that u shaped hose?? I didn’t connect the transfercase side, only the one on top of the transmission.
 
The diff breathers are 1 way valves so when operating correctly it allows pressure to escape but not flow back in. The front diff breather is in the engine bay where it is exposed to dust, dirt, moisture, etc. without a filter element. No filter is needed if the one way valve is operating as designed.

I concede I was mistaken on the design of the rear breather valves. I haven’t had one of the valves physically in my hands from a 3rd gen 4runner yet.

The problem with this design with the spring and rubber disc is every time your diff heats up, it'd push an amount of air out of the breather, then seal. This would cause a negative pressure environment in your differential assembly which is bad for your seals over time due to air being sucked through them. It is a poor design. This is the same reason why you need a fresh air source going to your crank case with your PCV system.

Pertaining to the front breather being exposed to the elements, I’ve read conflicting information on the design being one or two way. Again, I haven’t inspected one at this time. There are plenty of cars with breathers that are two way that don’t have air filters. It isn't a substantial amount of air being circulated back and forth through the breather for a need for an air filter due to particle contamination to matter in most cases IMO. A filter is still preferable to an open piece of tubing and a free-flowing system is preferential to a one-way check valve in all cases.
 
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Yea I basically pried the breather cap off on the transmission and put the plastic hose over the little nipple. Used a hose clamp to secure it just to make sure it stays on.

So are the transmission and transfer case breathers linked together with that u shaped hose?? I didn’t connect the transfercase side, only the one on top of the transmission.

There's one breather on the transmission more forward closer to the bell housing and then there's one at the back end of the transmission. The one at the back end of the transmission sits over the void where the transmission and transfer case come together. The u-shaped hose takes the pressure from the transfer case and moves it into the void space. So, technically the rear breather at the back end of the transmission over is the breather for the transfer case.
 
IMO the arb breather is proven already, which is literally the exact same item. It's a remote vent.

The diy and this will perform the exact same. My point was it being cheaper than the diy and a cleaner setup.

I agree with both statements, "IF" it is the exact same thing, Why, pay $75 for a name when you can get the exact same thing for $42?? unless someone likes to over pay for stuff lol
 
I agree with both statements, "IF" it is the exact same thing, Why, pay $75 for a name when you can get the exact same thing for $42?? unless someone likes to over pay for stuff lol

Idk... That ARB logo is pretty temping... The only reason to pay the extra is if you are an ARB fanboy or don't know about the cheaper only.

I get it Monday. I'll update with my impressions of the quality. I can almost guarantee it'll be comparable. It's just quick push fitting, ptfe hose, and an aluminum manifold. ARB wasn't reinventing the wheel with their product.
 
So, technically the rear breather at the back end of the transmission over is the breather for the transfer case.
The transmission has its own breather, like you said. The u-shaped hose goes between the transfer case adapter and the transfer case itself. The transfer case adapter is just an empty area inside (no gear oil, no trans fluid, etc.) that houses the coupler between the trans output and the transfer case input. Just a semantic issue, I suppose...

If you are planning on getting water up to the top of the transmission or higher, then I understand putting together a breather system... But otherwise, only the rear diff breather is low enough to be an issue. Even the front diff breather is extended up to the inner fender from the factory.

Also, I don't believe there is any one-way valve on the rear diff breather. It is just a loose fitting cap, slightly crimped so it can't fall off. It does allow air to go out of the diff easier than in, but it should never be sealed in either direction.

-Charlie
 
The transmission has its own breather, like you said. The u-shaped hose goes between the transfer case adapter and the transfer case itself. The transfer case adapter is just an empty area inside (no gear oil, no trans fluid, etc.) that houses the coupler between the trans output and the transfer case input. Just a semantic issue, I suppose...

If you are planning on getting water up to the top of the transmission or higher, then I understand putting together a breather system... But otherwise, only the rear diff breather is low enough to be an issue. Even the front diff breather is extended up to the inner fender from the factory.

Also, I don't believe there is any one-way valve on the rear diff breather. It is just a loose fitting cap, slightly crimped so it can't fall off. It does allow air to go out of the diff easier than in, but it should never be sealed in either direction.

-Charlie

This was my thought also with extending the breathers for the transmission and transfer case. It's only if you plan on fording some pretty deep crossing that you would have to worry about getting water sucked into your transmission. Water getting into the void between the trans and transfer case wouldn't be ideal but it wouldn't be as bad as getting water into your auto trans which we all know could be disastrous.

Taking a look at my 98 that has a suspension lift, I'm guessing I could ford through around a 2 1/2 foot deep creek or river crossing before I'd have to start worrying about having my breathers submerged. At that depth, water would be around 9-10 inches above the bottom of my doors.

I guess it also depends if you're able to cross without having to stop. Even if water did come over the top of the trans, I bet if you're moving and the trans is under positive pressure from the heat being generated, water isn't going to sneak it's way in. But, if you stall in deep water or are sitting there stuck and need to be pulled out, the chances go up dramatically that water is going to get in. I think if I have a trip planned with known deep creek crossings, I'm going to probably extend the breathers for my trans and transfer case.
 
I bookmarked it, in case it's good, but will reserve judgement right now. 'Polyethylene tubing' sounds janky, if that's what it really is.
Please let us know what you think, with photos if possible!

Here's pics of it. I 100% recommend it. Quality is fine for this purpose. It has a couple burrs I plan to knock off from the manifold port threading process. It includes a quality sintered bronze filter like the ARB.
 

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Here's pics of it. I 100% recommend it. Quality is fine for this purpose. It has a couple burrs I plan to knock off from the manifold port threading process. It includes a quality sintered bronze filter like the ARB.

Thanks for taking the time, to snap some pix and sharing them.
:rockon:
 

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