thezentree
Senior Member
Swapping 3rds was by far the hardest part of my elocker swap, and that includes getting the complete axle out of the back of my truck, by myself.
Ol' Ruby build thread
- Thread starter cl4Rk
- Start date
cl4Rk
Member
Yeah it only looks like surface rust so I doubt it’s rusted shut. I guess there is some rust around the studs, but that FIPG is strong! I’ve got those beehive tools on the way, and I’ll do as [MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] suggested and try a drywall knife as well. And I’ll reposition it like [MENTION=107222]HiLife[/MENTION] said.
I’ve been a little timid with the map torch since the e-locker stuff is all just right there… I’d hate to fry the electronics!
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Hang it upside down on jackstands and tap around the flange with a 3# sledge and brass drift, the 3rd member will fall off (unless it's glued in) as long as the axles are out
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
cl4Rk
Member
Locker actuator motor works! And locker shift fork works too. Woohoo!
Now, I opened up the fill and drain plugs on the matching 4.30 front diff that’s also in my garage.
Any thoughts on the amount of magnetic sludge on the drain plug magnet?
Normal amount of magnetic sludge?
(Last photo is me picking up the sludge covered rag with a magnet)
Last edited:
cl4Rk
Member
I’d say it’s very fine and homogeneous metallic sludge. No chunks or larger grit particles.
Probably just went to long between fluid changes. That’s about what I would expect for 80k-100k mile diff fluid. Obviously not ideal, but nothing I’d be too worried about. Might change the diff fluid again after 500-1000 miles on it if you want to be extra cautious.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I was going to suggest the same. If you can give everything a good rinse with brake cleaner or in a solvent tank before install you'll probably get more crap out.
I have a 4.88 3rd member I'm going to rinse before installing just because.
Good work!
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
cl4Rk
Member
I went with Fat Pats 1” body lift.
I used a ton of Energy Suspension Super Lube (super sticky silicone paste) and re-lubricated all my poly bushings.
Everything went well, except I’m not fully sure about the rearmost mounts. It seems like the bolts are too long. I’m not sure. I’m still investigating it and I’ll post my findings if/when I figure it out.
Tips: it’s easiest with at least one other set of hands and eyes. Get maybe a 4’ length of 4x4 to place along the pinch weld as you jack up the body. Do one complete side at a time (we did driver side then passenger side).
Don’t forget to loosen your trans shifter linkage and steering joint before jacking up. The hardest part was the steering spacer, but it’s not too bad.
Last edited:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Looks good!
Good time to replace your cabin filter if you haven't yet
PN 62940-35010
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Good time to replace your cabin filter if you haven't yet
PN 62940-35010
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
brillo_76
Elite Member
[MENTION=318903]RandyBobandy[/MENTION] has a 1 inch body lift on his. I am not sure what brand. It does make it alot easier to work on certain things. I am not sure if I put one on anything or not. I don't have plans at this time for one. Nothing wrong with them though..
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
cl4Rk
Member
Friendly reminder (to myself) that ANY new symptom has a root cause. Guaranteed. Just a matter of finding it and deciding if it’s important.
I’ve had a squeaky creaky sound during suspension cycles for a few months now. I just assumed it was a poly bushing getting squeaky due to lube washing away.
Well, look what I found today!!!!
That’s right!! A rear upper link with NO BOLT on the axle side. Oh my!!
I’ll replace with a new factory bolt and torque to spec, but in the mean time (about 20 miles and a week) I’ll make do with this extra body mount bolt:
I’ve had a squeaky creaky sound during suspension cycles for a few months now. I just assumed it was a poly bushing getting squeaky due to lube washing away.
Well, look what I found today!!!!
That’s right!! A rear upper link with NO BOLT on the axle side. Oh my!!
I’ll replace with a new factory bolt and torque to spec, but in the mean time (about 20 miles and a week) I’ll make do with this extra body mount bolt:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Looks like a tight fit...Bumper progress
Looking forward to your final welds
cl4Rk
Member
TW44LR
New member
Friendly reminder (to myself) that ANY new symptom has a root cause. Guaranteed. Just a matter of finding it and deciding if it’s important.
I’ve had a squeaky creaky sound during suspension cycles for a few months now. I just assumed it was a poly bushing getting squeaky due to lube washing away.
Well, look what I found today!!!!
That’s right!! A rear upper link with NO BOLT on the axle side. Oh my!!
I’ll replace with a new factory bolt and torque to spec, but in the mean time (about 20 miles and a week) I’ll make do with this extra body mount bolt:
Your rear upper link bolt missing is funny because I’m in the exact same scenario although it’s frame-side. Had a weird noise for months, noticed it Sunday afternoon haha
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk