Bilstein TRD Pro suspension kit on sale PTR13-35140

[CowboyTaco]

Question? ....

Would installing this kit myself on a 2018 4runner void my warranty if I have any issues with suspension, or suspension related?

Here is my $.02 on it, it’s TRD suspension, you can buy it from Toyota.... I personally don’t feel it would void any warranty which is why I decided on this kit vs. any other one (I also didn’t need any type lift). The kit also has a 12 month warranty on it so you should be fine IMO.

But its an FJ part number not 4Runner.

Apparently I have a bad lower control arm bushing that I want toyota to replace under warranty, but I am debating on putting in the old suspension before taking it in

Only if they can prove that the modification caused the issue. Local dealer has performed warranty work on my Tacoma after a lift was installed. They even helped troubleshoot driveline vibrations...something that many Tacoma owners experience with and without lift.

How did you determine that you had a bad LCA bushing? Is that what caused your "clunk?"

 

[HoustonT4R]

Only if they can prove that the modification caused the issue. Local dealer has performed warranty work on my Tacoma after a lift was installed. They even helped troubleshoot driveline vibrations...something that many Tacoma owners experience with and without lift.

How did you determine that you had a bad LCA bushing? Is that what caused your "clunk?"

I took it to Firestone and kind of blamed it on them after the alignment. They checked everything and called me about the bad bushing.

They lifted the car and we were standing under the front end. He used a pry bar to stimulate movement. The front bushing on the LCA was tight, while the back bushing on the LCA had about a 0.75" movement. This was after we re-torqued the bolts to spec.

:reddance:

 

[osugsxr]

I took it to Firestone and kind of blamed it on them after the alignment. They checked everything and called me about the bad bushing.

They lifted the car and we were standing under the front end. He used a pry bar to stimulate movement. The front bushing on the LCA was tight, while the back bushing on the LCA had about a 0.75" movement. This was after we re-torqued the bolts to spec.

:reddance:

what did firestone charge you for install? Pix?

 

[TodiN]

Eibach Pro Lift 1" rear springs.

Thanks for comments. Can you give me the springs part number (looking at their web site it stated that part #: E30-82-071-01-02 has to be used with their shocks)?

 

[HoustonT4R]

what did firestone charge you for install? Pix?

I did the install myself.

Firestone did my alignment afterwards. So I went back and said I heard a clunk from my front suspension after the alignment.

They checked all the components and said its the bushings

 

[CowboyTaco]

I did the install myself.

Firestone did my alignment afterwards. So I went back and said I heard a clunk from my front suspension after the alignment.

They checked all the components and said its the bushings

I would just call and ask them if that is a warranty repair. Might save yourself some time, gas and headache if they tell you to get lost. They may consider that a wear item; but regardless, it shouldn't wear out too soon. IIRC, you are fairly low miles, right? I'm guessing under 36k to be considering it a possible warranty claim, and it should (almost) NEVER wear out that quickly (unless it was abused).

 

[HoustonT4R]

I would just call and ask them if that is a warranty repair. Might save yourself some time, gas and headache if they tell you to get lost. They may consider that a wear item; but regardless, it shouldn't wear out too soon. IIRC, you are fairly low miles, right? I'm guessing under 36k to be considering it a possible warranty claim, and it should (almost) NEVER wear out that quickly (unless it was abused).

I ONLY HAVE 4230 MILES ON MY CAR! Its a brand new 2018.

I have not been off road at all.

The only thing that happened was i bought a set of used KO2's from a friend and one of them turned out to be bad so the car was shaking at highway speeds pretty bad. Drove it like that for about a week until my brand new KO2's arrived and were installed last weekend.

The other thing is that when I installed the suspension upfront. I torqued the LCA bolts to #100.

Other than that, its been taken care of and parked in a garage.

:lookout::lookout::lookout:

 

[GogDog]

So, I finally was able to order SCS ray10s, which was the last piece before I have the suspension installed.

However...now I went ahead and splurged and got a SSO slimline with a smittybilt winch. That adds about 110#s over stock to the front.

I already have installed a FULL RCI skid Aluminum package (including fuel, lower link, aarm skids), and Steel RSG sliders.

The suspension parts that have already arrived are:
FJ TRD Pro kit (1.25" lift (I think) with perch settings on the higher setting)
Toytec TOP1-T - Front Top Plate Spacer Kit (3/4" lift front)
Dobinsons C59-505 rear coil (1.5" rear lift)
Toytec 150PR10 - OME FJ rear trim spacer 10mm (to fix lean)


I believe the FJ 6112 is a 14" long, 3" diameter 600# spring.

Question:
Now...do I need a 650# or 700# front springs to handle the new bumper/winch? I believe eibach and kings make them like here ->
King Shocks 3.0 Coil Springs for Coil Over Shocks « King Off-Road Racing Springs : kingshocks.com

I think around...$180-$200 a set.

Any suggestions here? Are there other things I have to worry about like ...the springs needing to have a flat side for the 6112 or not working with the 6112 or the eibach and kings coilover springs would fit no problem?

Edit: And...is going from a 600# to a 650# spring going to really make that big of a difference for almost $200?

Any ideas here? It seems like right now I would just have to guess on what springs would be appropriate? Whether 600#, 650, or 700? I need to get springs ordered soon so they can get here before the shocks are installed.

 

[salong53]

Thanks for comments. Can you give me the springs part number (looking at their web site it stated that part #: E30-82-071-01-02 has to be used with their shocks)?

Here ya go:
https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-31259...er-e30-82-071-01-02.html?ref=category:1389064

 

[Akkording]

Great rear springs for a mild lift, at the time I paid $140 w/ free shipping from Tire Rack.

 

[nb rob]

I ONLY HAVE 4230 MILES ON MY CAR! Its a brand new 2018.

I have not been off road at all.

The only thing that happened was i bought a set of used KO2's from a friend and one of them turned out to be bad so the car was shaking at highway speeds pretty bad. Drove it like that for about a week until my brand new KO2's arrived and were installed last weekend.

The other thing is that when I installed the suspension upfront. I torqued the LCA bolts to #100.

Other than that, its been taken care of and parked in a garage.

:lookout::lookout::lookout:

The LCA torque spec is 130 lbs - that's a pretty big difference. 100 lbs-ft is not adequate.

Somebody posted a video recently of suspension movement on normal driving, and it's surprising how much the rear LCA bushing moves around.

 

[nb rob]

here it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDlwjC-JMWE&t=

check out 0:39 - loads of movement on the rear LCA bushing

here's the thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/258255-front-suspension-operation-footage.html

 

[HoustonT4R]

The LCA torque spec is 130 lbs - that's a pretty big difference. 100 lbs-ft is not adequate.

Somebody posted a video recently of suspension movement on normal driving, and it's surprising how much the rear LCA bushing moves around.

So you think the rear LCA bushing has movement while the front LCA bushing is tight?

Then what is making that sound “clunk” in the front suspension??:doh:

 

[Akkording]

Torque down your sway bar and see if that clunk goes away. I did this the same time I had to replace my driverside inner tie rod and my clunking went away when going forward and reverse from my driveway

 

[HoustonT4R]

Torque down your sway bar and see if that clunk goes away. I did this the same time I had to replace my driverside inner tie rod and my clunking went away when going forward and reverse from my driveway

The clunk only started after I installed the front suspension. I didnt touch the sway bar during the installation

 

[nb rob]

So you think the rear LCA bushing has movement while the front LCA bushing is tight?

Then what is making that sound “clunk” in the front suspension??:doh:

Tighten your LCA bolts to 130 ft-lbs. they’re under torqued.

 

[HoustonT4R]

here it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDlwjC-JMWE&t=

check out 0:39 - loads of movement on the rear LCA bushing

here's the thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/258255-front-suspension-operation-footage.html

Wow, just saw this video. So my bushings are good. Makes sense that they wont be bad this early.

Good news, no need to switch back my suspension for a trip to the dealer.

Bad news, no clue where the sound is coming from

 

[HoustonT4R]

If it makes a difference.

Last night it was raining. Took off the traction control and made the tail end happy just a couple times when turning. Nothing crazy but it made the clunck worse, more often.....

 

[HoustonT4R]

https://youtu.be/9R46UfIVbqg

Ok so I found a video with the exact same noise.

Said that tightening the skid plate fixed the noise.

Under the car I go

 

[clanger]

https://youtu.be/9R46UfIVbqg

Ok so I found a video with the exact same noise.

Said that tightening the skid plate fixed the noise.

Under the car I go

Does your clunk sound happen when you brake? I have slight millimeter of movement in my brake pads when in reverse and applying the brakes. When I took it in, we all thought it was movement in the frame or suspension but found it in the brake pads.