Block crack???
- Thread starter saint_123
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dkyleb
New member
Where's the crack? Can you circle it? Looks to me like a frost plug.
:thanks::thanks: You can tell, I don't/can't do this for a living.
Now, that bolt with the stem still in the block is becoming a PITA. No amount of penetrating oil/butane heat is making it budge. Advice??? Pleaase...this is my only vehicle!
dkyleb
New member
Be very careful heating it up. But yeah, heat and force is the only way you're getting it out of there...
The Yin
Member
Not sure on the best bet for getting the bolt out, but I can tell you that you should be okay running it with one bolt missing. I broke one on my passenger side when replacing my cover gasket and had to use the Runner to get to work for a week before I had time to replace it with a new one from the dealer.
I am thinking of buying a cheap harbor freight/walmart welder and welding a bolt on top of the stem. I've never arc weld anything much less inside the engine bay. Should I...
1- Avoid at all costs
2- Go ahead with certain precautions
I know...my wife wants to take it to the shop but I have a rock for a brain
1- Avoid at all costs
2- Go ahead with certain precautions
I know...my wife wants to take it to the shop but I have a rock for a brain
BlackWorksInc
New member
Are you talking about the cam plugs in the back of the cylinder head? Those actually come out and need some FIPG when you put them back in... and that would be the cylinderhead not the block. 
Are you talking about the cam plugs in the back of the cylinder head? Those actually come out and need some FIPG when you put them back in... and that would be the cylinderhead not the block.
Here are a few snapshots to highlight limited accessibility
Attachments
use a small tipped propane torch. get the stud so it is smoking hot. then using some vice grips clamp on to the stud. then using gradual rotation force try to unscrew.. if not then remove vice grips and repeat heat.
the steel stud will expand when hot also the alum around the stud threads will expand .. as the vice grips cool down the stud the stud will shrink and then should break loose. using a small tipped touch is best to get the heat exactly on the stud only..
I use various sized tips heavy wiring or plumbing on copper pipes. the tip I use for fastener removals is this size tip Bernzomatic Brass Pencil Flame Torch Head (UL2317) - Vegetation Kill - Ace Hardware ..
the adjusting of the propane gas flow can be a PITA. so be patient and not move the bottle of gas much so the flame is consistent ..
blackoutt
New member
Get the stud and hear super (careful not to damage any plastic or rubber parts nearby) then spray it with PB blaster, this will suck the oil into the threads and cool it rapidly. Might take a couple cycles of this but should some out with vice grips. Whatever you do be careful not to break it off lower.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Hmm... that might be a small crack, never seen one before...
You can take a Sharpie and colour that area heavily so it's sorta soaked in ink, then take a rag with a bit of cleaner (like brake clean or what not) and wipe the ink from the surface. If it is a crack the ink should have slipped into the crack where the rag can't wipe and it should highlight it well.
It could just be a scratch though, hard to tell from the picture.
You can take a Sharpie and colour that area heavily so it's sorta soaked in ink, then take a rag with a bit of cleaner (like brake clean or what not) and wipe the ink from the surface. If it is a crack the ink should have slipped into the crack where the rag can't wipe and it should highlight it well.
It could just be a scratch though, hard to tell from the picture.
I agree. I'd use lots of red locktite let it cure and position the two nuts when tightened they line up so you can get a six point deep well socket over both( a thin "shim washer" of the correct thickness could help here). I'd try to keep the nuts as high on the stud as possible so as to give me a little shot at another try. Keeping the socket flat against the cylinder heads surface and applying downward pressure (a helping hand here might be useful ). Then using the longest breaker bar you can get in there while keeping the socket and extension square or straight with the axis of the stud. The longer the breaker bar, within reason, the easier it will be to apply torque in an even fashion.
On another note. The head is aluminum alloy, correct. The stud is steel, correct?
I'd try and figure a way to gently heat the heat the cylinder head without starting an oil fire. Like maybe a couple of those hand/foot warm packet applied to the outside of the head behind stud. The alloy should expand before the steel.
The key is to keep everything straight and even you don't want to break the stud again and risk further damage to the range.
I like Yin suggestion too.
I forgot to mention. I don't see the "clean lint free" towels to protect the insides of your engine from crap that will undoubtably fall in there during the process without. By the way, where the shavings your vise grip took of that stud go? Maybe you had something there and removed for the photos, but I just thought I'd mention. I'd also be super careful crap from the rags doesn't fall off when you remove them.
Not to be obnoxious, but as far as the nuts go use the thickest you can fine so as to grasp as much of your studs threads as possible. And there's really not wrong with three , or four locknuts stacked as long as you can get them to line up so you can get your six point socket on.
Yet another obvious but important point. You need to use a good feel here and not break the bolt off do to over torque. It's better and easier to jiggle loosely-tighty gently and strip out the soft hole than over-torque the bolt too the point of snapping it off flush or worse. It not really difficult to repair the hole if it strips with a repair coil. Vibration is your friend working the penetrating catalyst into you threads. Like lightly but firmly repeatedly tapping the area with a something like a 15mm box end. I've heard of people using a vibrating tool with just the sanding pad, no paper, to work penatratant into the threads of antique chain saw casings welded with decades off weather, which are pretty soft by the way?
I am thinking of buying a cheap harbor freight/walmart welder and welding a bolt on top of the stem. I've never arc weld anything much less inside the engine bay. Should I...
1- Avoid at all costs
2- Go ahead with certain precautions
I know...my wife wants to take it to the shop but I have a rock for a brain
I wouldn't recommend welding, first you are dealing with an aluminum head and you're not an experienced welder, major damage can be done to the head trying to weld in this situation even if done by a profession welder.
I'm thinking since you stated you have tried heating the stud, etc., you are going to be forced to in the end having to very carefully drill out the broken bolt and re-tapping the threads, I understand that the space is limited, but you may have to remove other components to make more room to do so, a right angle drill may be the tool of the day to achieve this, but you need to be carful to try and drill as straight as possible and centered into the broken bolt.
Not an easy task to be sure but may be the only way to fix your issue.