Is there anything you could use that would pulse power on the CAN? Steady voltage on communication networks means there's no communication at the time which is why the module is going to sleep.
BMW E90 3-series Seat Swap
- Thread starter Spktyr
- Start date
snydmax
New member
Any successful E60 swaps? A super clean set just popped locally on FB marketplace
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E60 rails are too wide.
On another note. I’m waiting for parts but I’m getting closer to get the seat heating working on my F32 seats
Brian.
Member
Well, I gave up on getting the drivers seat to work "normally" and have just resigned myself to the fact that it's beyond my means (or knowledge, haven't found an answer anywhere else) to have the seat controls just function normally.
Here's my work-around, though I'd recommend a slightly different. So below you see a dual-output buck converter (takes a higher voltage down to a lower voltage, this one is adjustable). So the normal seat 12vdc input, one leg set 12vdc out to the seat power (Red/Brown and Brown), the other is switched 4.5vdc to the Orange/Green (can-high).
The switch plate was just a thin piece of scrap metal, has a U fold on the end that hooks over the seat cover and I gave a it quick coat of black.
To wake-up the seat, you simply flip the switch on and off. This emulates CAN traffic (sorta, enough in any case) enough to wake the brain and allow the switches to function.
Doing it this way over again, I'd have gone with a single adjustable Buck converter (under $5) and a momentary switch (again about $5). Push the button anytime you need the seat to come awake.
I'm waiting on a heated seat controller from China, but that should be a fairly simple job. Wires are all the same, Brown ground and a Green/Violet for positive (4 connectors, 2 per seat). Not that it's needed, but you can tell the back from the seat as the seat surface has a 3rd wire that's Grey.
Here's my work-around, though I'd recommend a slightly different. So below you see a dual-output buck converter (takes a higher voltage down to a lower voltage, this one is adjustable). So the normal seat 12vdc input, one leg set 12vdc out to the seat power (Red/Brown and Brown), the other is switched 4.5vdc to the Orange/Green (can-high).
The switch plate was just a thin piece of scrap metal, has a U fold on the end that hooks over the seat cover and I gave a it quick coat of black.
To wake-up the seat, you simply flip the switch on and off. This emulates CAN traffic (sorta, enough in any case) enough to wake the brain and allow the switches to function.
Doing it this way over again, I'd have gone with a single adjustable Buck converter (under $5) and a momentary switch (again about $5). Push the button anytime you need the seat to come awake.
I'm waiting on a heated seat controller from China, but that should be a fairly simple job. Wires are all the same, Brown ground and a Green/Violet for positive (4 connectors, 2 per seat). Not that it's needed, but you can tell the back from the seat as the seat surface has a 3rd wire that's Grey.
Hey guys, I'm working on adding power to a seat pulled from a 2015 BMW X5. I thought this would be an ideal seat to use since it's the passenger seat with less use and includes quite a few controls.
For now, I'd be happy if I can just get the movement controls working, things like memory, heat & cooling can wait. These are the wires coming from the pigtail connector:
This is the wiring diagram for the connector:
Connector X12*1B
So far, I've only been able to get power to the lumbar adjustments working by connecting the smaller red wire and one of the large brown wires to a battery. However, there's no added power when connecting the large red and the other large brown wire to the battery.
The small brown/blue pair are for the airbag, so I've twisted them together with a wire nut.
These are two sets of yellow/brown, yellow/red pairs. One pair is used for the "Front Passenger seat module" which appears to be required for the seat functions, including heating and ventilation.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...nts-with-a/a245-seat-module-driver/1VnYvNnU70
I’ve tried powering all red wires with all brown wired grounded (excluding the small blue/brown pair which is for the airbag). Do I need to be running one of the yellow/brown, yellow/red pairs to a 5v power source?
I'm not sure where to go from here, any ideas?
For now, I'd be happy if I can just get the movement controls working, things like memory, heat & cooling can wait. These are the wires coming from the pigtail connector:
This is the wiring diagram for the connector:
Connector X12*1B
So far, I've only been able to get power to the lumbar adjustments working by connecting the smaller red wire and one of the large brown wires to a battery. However, there's no added power when connecting the large red and the other large brown wire to the battery.
The small brown/blue pair are for the airbag, so I've twisted them together with a wire nut.
These are two sets of yellow/brown, yellow/red pairs. One pair is used for the "Front Passenger seat module" which appears to be required for the seat functions, including heating and ventilation.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...nts-with-a/a245-seat-module-driver/1VnYvNnU70
I’ve tried powering all red wires with all brown wired grounded (excluding the small blue/brown pair which is for the airbag). Do I need to be running one of the yellow/brown, yellow/red pairs to a 5v power source?
I'm not sure where to go from here, any ideas?
Great thread guys. A friend of mine and I have been following it and have some powered e92 seats currently installed in his runner. As it seems like many people have experienced: no CAN bus = seats sleep. Additionally, there is no way to use the seat heater functionality built in to these particular seats without some type of CAN bus. I stand corrected - there is a separate module that receives a PWM signal.
Enter an Arduino and CAN-BUS Shield V2 by Seeed Studio.
We have successfully been able to keep the seats awake by continuously sending a data packet that all devices in the car listen for to know the state of the ignition. Specifically, we are forging a packet from the BMW CAS module saying that the key is in the ignition and the engine is running.
As others have pointed out, a carrier signal alone looks like it may be enough to keep things awake. We've had mixed results with this if there isn't some type of traffic being passed, which is why we've decided to still send the above-mentioned packet.
To get everything connected nicely, the current plan is to run some stranded copper CAT5 cable (we'll only terminate 2 pairs) and install some surface mount RJ11 jacks. Each surface mount jack will have an RJ11 splitter so we can continue the network on to the passenger side seat and beyond if needed. We're thinking to mount the Arduino somewhere around the fuse box and install a USB C to A round panel-mount adapter somewhere to allow for easily reprogramming the Arduino.
I've uploaded the Arduino code to GitHub here.
There is some additional documentation located there. I'll work on getting more documentation up and will try to update here as well. We may have hit a snag with the heated seat portion as I just realized today that he doesn't have heated e92 seats, lol...
<a href="https://ibb.co/hHqFL3x"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/hHqFL3x/IMG-20200221-222630.jpg" alt="IMG-20200221-222630" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/z2jyFfh"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/z2jyFfh/IMG-20200221-222701.jpg" alt="IMG-20200221-222701" border="0"></a>
Enter an Arduino and CAN-BUS Shield V2 by Seeed Studio.
We have successfully been able to keep the seats awake by continuously sending a data packet that all devices in the car listen for to know the state of the ignition. Specifically, we are forging a packet from the BMW CAS module saying that the key is in the ignition and the engine is running.
As others have pointed out, a carrier signal alone looks like it may be enough to keep things awake. We've had mixed results with this if there isn't some type of traffic being passed, which is why we've decided to still send the above-mentioned packet.
To get everything connected nicely, the current plan is to run some stranded copper CAT5 cable (we'll only terminate 2 pairs) and install some surface mount RJ11 jacks. Each surface mount jack will have an RJ11 splitter so we can continue the network on to the passenger side seat and beyond if needed. We're thinking to mount the Arduino somewhere around the fuse box and install a USB C to A round panel-mount adapter somewhere to allow for easily reprogramming the Arduino.
I've uploaded the Arduino code to GitHub here.
There is some additional documentation located there. I'll work on getting more documentation up and will try to update here as well. We may have hit a snag with the heated seat portion as I just realized today that he doesn't have heated e92 seats, lol...
<a href="https://ibb.co/hHqFL3x"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/hHqFL3x/IMG-20200221-222630.jpg" alt="IMG-20200221-222630" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/z2jyFfh"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/z2jyFfh/IMG-20200221-222701.jpg" alt="IMG-20200221-222701" border="0"></a>
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You don’t need a controller, a 2 position switch works, I got my switches from amazon. I’m on mobile and haven’t really found an app to draw diagrams lol
Here’s my current set up. Black interior and F32 seats
And this is how I made the heated pads to work
I used these switches
3 Pin 12V Universal Car Seat Heater Switch- Round High Low Off Control Heated Seat Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2W6FTM/
And a 30 amp relay
And this is how I made the heated pads to work
I used these switches
3 Pin 12V Universal Car Seat Heater Switch- Round High Low Off Control Heated Seat Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2W6FTM/
And a 30 amp relay
imolam3md1
New member
Here’s my current set up. Black interior and F32 seats
And this is how I made the heated pads to work
I used these switches
3 Pin 12V Universal Car Seat Heater Switch- Round High Low Off Control Heated Seat Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2W6FTM/
And a 30 amp relay
Nice work
Your dash and side door panels where they original black or did you paint/dye them?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I painted them using Duplicolor interior paint. I reupholstered the armrests in black vinyl. I ordered a new carpet kit in black.
How difficult was it to reupholster the armrests?
gtjackets3
New member
Just my thoughts on this seat swap. I bought a pair of F30 "base model" seats with their pigtails:
Swapped over the Toyota seatbelt assembly, using a bolt, steel sleeve and bronze bushing to adjust for sizing and spacing. Just stuff I had available in the shop bins, so no clue on sizing.
De-pinned the BMW seatbelt lines and put the plug back in place so everything will still line up and work right with the connector.
Fitting the seats into the 4runner was more frustrating that difficult. The seats are about 1/2" narrower than the 4runner at the rails. But the inside 2 and the front outside all bolted up, thought they clock themselves a little bit. I had to start the bolts and tighten them slowly as they all pulled themselves into place. The outside rear though, needed a new hole:
because it was quite a ways out:
Sadly, this mount doesn't bolt through one of the reinforced areas designed for bolting the seat down. I may revisit this in the future, when it's not so cold and wet outside.
Used 1/4x20 flange bolts, washers on both sides and a few different nuts. Basically, ran a washer to the flange head and then a nut up against that. This fit into the space in the BMW seat so it wouldn't slop around, then through the brackets (Toyota rivets were 1/4", hence my bolt choice) with a washer and lock nut on the bottom.
Still have all of the electronics to deal with. My seats seem to time-out in less than a minute so making adjustments is a pita of stop, connect wires, make adjustment, disconnect wires and drive till I find the need to make another adjustment.
There is a Whole lot more seat travel, especially in the back direction:
even at 6'4", I'm well away from the back stop. Have to get my 5'4" wife into the drivers seat to make sure there's enough Forward range....
They do fit the space well though:
Brian,
Thanks for posting this - your install looks awesome. I also have F30 seats installed in my truck. I have gotten the main power functions to work (tilt, forward and back, etc.) but have not gotten heated seats or lumbar.
Like you, I have the pigtails that went from the F30 into the floor and have wired that up to the old 4R pigtail.
Do you mind posting a picture of the wires on passenger and driver side that need to be connected, and how, to power lumbar and heated seats? I am having trouble figuring out which wires power what functions.
Thanks!
turbozeke418
New member
turbozeke418
New member
I used the plantronics platform but since the seats already sit higher than stock seats, my headroom is almost nothing now. Feels like driving in a freighliner since it's so high, but so comfortable.
