Brake bleed/fluid swap noob - need some answers

Pretty sure I've read every thread on toyota-4runner.org and yogatech, but am somehow still confused.

I don't want to buy the Motive power bleeder as the reviews for it on this specific truck are mixed.

Regarding a gravity bleed, what is the disadvantage to this other than it taking longer? How exactly is it done?
 
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gravity bleeding doesnt work all that well to be honest. Pic up a cheap vacuum pump and use that. Heres the one i have :

Vacuum Pump & Brake Bleeder Kit | Princess Auto

It was on sale recently for 24 bucks so i picked it up and it works great. In the past ive made a home made bleeder out of a old brake bleeder resivour, a valve from a tire, and a pressure regulator. That works good too.
 
I disagree, bleeding without a vacuum pump is fine, you just have to do it correctly.

The problem with bleeding period is making sure not to get air into the lines, so the idea is that you should keep constant pressure on the brake system when bleeding to prevent air ingress (via backflow intot the caliper or via the reservoir getting low). You can do this with something like the motive power kit that pressurizes the reservoir, makes bleeding an easy 1 shot process, or you can have a friend depress the brake pedal while you momentarily open the bleeder valve and let out air and old fluid (this is the traditional way to do it). The traditional way works just fine and has for many many years as long as you don't let the pedal go all the way down, and don't let the reservoir go empty and suck in air. You can also use a vacuum gun on the bleeder valve itself (which I have done a number of times), but I am not a big fan of that method; you can get a cheap vacuum kit from harbor freight thought hat works just fine. Again, all these methods work, it's just some are easier than others.

The other option (my favorite) is speed bleeders, which are bleeder valves that have a check valve in them to prevent back-flow of air into the caliper while bleeding. This means you don't need to momentarily open the bleeder valve, just loosen it 1/4 turn, then pump the pedal. Just watch the fluid level in your reservoir and it is a 5-minute 1-person job that doesn't require any kind of special tool (I live in an apartment, so I hate storing tools I rarely use).

Anyway, read up on it, cause if you really have read all the threads here and on yotatech, you should know that lots of people do it the traditional way and don't use a kit like the motive power kit.
 
Use this. Connect a 1/4" line to it and then the brake bleeder. Put is above the brake nipple. You can bleed out as much fluid as you want without having to worry about it overflowing.

Air cannot be sucked back in once the bottom of the old piece of brake line is covered in brake fluid. That means you can close the nipple on your own time.

I like it. It works.

23ed77f0.jpg~original
 
Speed bleeder valves are the way to go. Install them on each wheel and do one at a time. First using a turkey baster, suck out as much fluid from the res. as possible and refill with fresh fluid. Then crack the valve 1/4 turn and pump the brake until clean fluid comes out of teh calipers. Tighten it down and have yourself a beer for a job well done. It makes frequent flushing so much easier as well.

The bleeder valves are M10x10 35mm. and are made by Russell and Dorman and usually can be found at all auto parts stores $15/pair or Rockauto.com $7/pair.
 
I disagree, bleeding without a vacuum pump is fine, you just have to do it correctly.

The problem with bleeding period is making sure not to get air into the lines, so the idea is that you should keep constant pressure on the brake system when bleeding to prevent air ingress (via backflow intot the caliper or via the reservoir getting low). You can do this with something like the motive power kit that pressurizes the reservoir, makes bleeding an easy 1 shot process, or you can have a friend depress the brake pedal while you momentarily open the bleeder valve and let out air and old fluid (this is the traditional way to do it). The traditional way works just fine and has for many many years as long as you don't let the pedal go all the way down, and don't let the reservoir go empty and suck in air. You can also use a vacuum gun on the bleeder valve itself (which I have done a number of times), but I am not a big fan of that method; you can get a cheap vacuum kit from harbor freight thought hat works just fine. Again, all these methods work, it's just some are easier than others.

The other option (my favorite) is speed bleeders, which are bleeder valves that have a check valve in them to prevent back-flow of air into the caliper while bleeding. This means you don't need to momentarily open the bleeder valve, just loosen it 1/4 turn, then pump the pedal. Just watch the fluid level in your reservoir and it is a 5-minute 1-person job that doesn't require any kind of special tool (I live in an apartment, so I hate storing tools I rarely use).

Anyway, read up on it, cause if you really have read all the threads here and on yotatech, you should know that lots of people do it the traditional way and don't use a kit like the motive power kit.


I was assuming he didnt want to do it the '2 man' way. Speed bleeders are great, but you have to make an investment for something your going to use once, on your vehicle, and damn near every vehicle uses a different bleeder. The vacuum pump can be used for many other things than just bleeding brakes, and on every vehicle. To each their own though. Its always nice to have lots of options. But just opening the bleeder screws and letting gravity take care of it is not a good option at all.
 
The problem with bleeding period is making sure not to get air into the lines, so the idea is that you should keep constant pressure on the brake system when bleeding to prevent air ingress (via backflow intot the caliper or via the reservoir getting low).

I think this was the source of some of my confusion. I wasn't understanding how air could get in they system. It didn't occur to me that it sucks back in through the caliper.

Regarding speed bleeders...does this replace the nipple that's already there and stay there permanently? Or does it go over the existing nipples?
 
Speed bleeder valves are the way to go. Install them on each wheel and do one at a time. First using a turkey baster, suck out as much fluid from the res. as possible and refill with fresh fluid. Then crack the valve 1/4 turn and pump the brake until clean fluid comes out of teh calipers. Tighten it down and have yourself a beer for a job well done. It makes frequent flushing so much easier as well.

The bleeder valves are M10x10 35mm. and are made by Russell and Dorman and usually can be found at all auto parts stores $15/pair or Rockauto.com $7/pair.

Do these fit both sizes of Tundra Calipers?
 
so you pull the old one off, liquid is coming out and you work through the liquid that's coming out to put the new one in? or do you clamp the brake line to install it?

Its a slow trickle. Just pull the old one out and put the new one in. you can usually stop any drips with a paper towel below the hole while you do the switch. Tighten it all the way down and back it off 1/4 turn. Pump the brakes until its clear of old fluid and lock it down. It sounds too easy but it really is that easy.

If your rig is older, try not to press the pedal all the way to the floor. Go half way down. This will help the seals in the master cylinder.

I personally don't clamp the hose. You risk damaging the hose and causing it to fail sooner than it should. Especially if its older and stiff.
 
thanks for the tip...i have the bleeders in my cart, ready to order...i'd like to clear up the process before proceeding:

1) unscrew nipple at caliper and replace with speed bleeders (no air will get in during this process? or should I put pressure on the pedal while doing this to prevent air going back into the caliper?
2) open master cylinder
3) syphon out fluid until empty-ish (a little below MIN amount?)
4) top off with new fluid/keep master cylinder cap off
5) put some tubing onto driver's side rear speed nipple and other end of tube into catch container
6) crack speed bleeder

7) push pedal half way down until clear fluid comes out. Do I pump? Do I slowly push down until halfway through the pedal stroke? Do I let the pedal return to it's normal position before closing the nipple?

8) repeat at each caliper, keeping new fluid in the master cylinder
9) cap back on MC
10) doneski?
 
Start with all the valves closed. In fact do one at a time. Starting with the right rear, install new bleeder and bleed that corner. Then move to the left rear and repeat.

1) unscrew nipple at caliper and replace with speed bleeders (no air will get in during this process? or should I put pressure on the pedal while doing this to prevent air going back into the caliper? Air will get in and that's okay because you will purge it once the new bleeder is in.
2) open master cylinder
3) syphon out fluid until empty-ish (a little below MIN amount?)Down to where you have about 1/2" remaining still covering the exits at the bottom
4) top off with new fluid/keep master cylinder cap off
5) put some tubing onto driver's side rear speed nipple and other end of tube into catch container. The proper sequence from what I could divine from the FSM is RR, LR, RF, LF (right rear, left rear,etc.)
6) crack speed bleeder

7) push pedal half way down A bunch of times (4-8x) until clear fluid comes out. Do I pump? a steady pump down and up(not fast but not slow). Do I slowly push down until halfway through the pedal stroke? correct Do I let the pedal return to it's normal position before closing the nipple? yes
8) repeat at each caliper (see #5), keeping new fluid in the master cylinder (recheck fluid level after every wheel) tighten the valve when you finish each wheel
9) cap back on MC
10) doneski?
 
Speed bleeders are the way to go. I have a Motive and it does fine for me, but I did use the adapter in the Durk's link to fit on my MC.

Brake fluid should be changed out every two years regardless of miles. If one plans to keep the 4runner for a long time, the speed bleeders are a worthwhile investment IMO.
 
Speed Bleeders

Can someone provide a link or part numbers for the speed bleeders for stock 2001 rear brakes and Tundra brake upgrade front calipers? Are they the same? Looking to do the Tundra upgrade very soon. Thanks.
 
Can someone provide a link or part numbers for the speed bleeders for stock 2001 rear brakes and Tundra brake upgrade front calipers? Are they the same? Looking to do the Tundra upgrade very soon. Thanks.

Are the tundra bleeders the same size as the stock 4runner bleeders?
 

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