I disagree, bleeding without a vacuum pump is fine, you just have to do it correctly.
The problem with bleeding period is making sure not to get air into the lines, so the idea is that you should keep constant pressure on the brake system when bleeding to prevent air ingress (via backflow intot the caliper or via the reservoir getting low). You can do this with something like the motive power kit that pressurizes the reservoir, makes bleeding an easy 1 shot process, or you can have a friend depress the brake pedal while you momentarily open the bleeder valve and let out air and old fluid (this is the traditional way to do it). The traditional way works just fine and has for many many years as long as you don't let the pedal go all the way down, and don't let the reservoir go empty and suck in air. You can also use a vacuum gun on the bleeder valve itself (which I have done a number of times), but I am not a big fan of that method; you can get a cheap vacuum kit from harbor freight thought hat works just fine. Again, all these methods work, it's just some are easier than others.
The other option (my favorite) is speed bleeders, which are bleeder valves that have a check valve in them to prevent back-flow of air into the caliper while bleeding. This means you don't need to momentarily open the bleeder valve, just loosen it 1/4 turn, then pump the pedal. Just watch the fluid level in your reservoir and it is a 5-minute 1-person job that doesn't require any kind of special tool (I live in an apartment, so I hate storing tools I rarely use).
Anyway, read up on it, cause if you really have read all the threads here and on yotatech, you should know that lots of people do it the traditional way and don't use a kit like the motive power kit.