Brake Rotors
- Thread starter Patton
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
BlackCat914
New member
nobody can correctly answer that until we have the rotor thickness measurement. Also, these trucks are prone to brake pulsation, and by machining rotors you're making them thinner by removing material, which means they'll overheat and warp easier. I put a set of cross-drilled and slotted rotors on my truck, so far so good.
Patton
New member
I think you may have answered my initial question. Do the come from the factory with enough thickness to be machined under any circumstances? I had older vehicles growing up that had rotors thick enough to be turned two and three times before being replaced. If the 4Runner is too thin from the factory, or close, I won't bother measuring and will just replace.
I also tow a 3,800 ski boat (which has surge brakes on all four wheels) but still puts a good amount of heat into the truck's brakes. What make/model of cross-drilled did you use?
Thanks!
nobody can correctly answer that until we have the rotor thickness measurement. Also, these trucks are prone to brake pulsation, and by machining rotors you're making them thinner by removing material, which means they'll overheat and warp easier. I put a set of cross-drilled and slotted rotors on my truck, so far so good.
I also tow a 3,800 ski boat (which has surge brakes on all four wheels) but still puts a good amount of heat into the truck's brakes. What make/model of cross-drilled did you use?
Thanks!
nobody can correctly answer that until we have the rotor thickness measurement. Also, these trucks are prone to brake pulsation, and by machining rotors you're making them thinner by removing material, which means they'll overheat and warp easier. I put a set of cross-drilled and slotted rotors on my truck, so far so good.
BlackCat914
New member
yes, they absolutely can be machined. This is the kit I put on my truck. I've had them on for about 6,000 miles and so far so good. I occasionally pull about 800lbs or so when I tow my ATV.
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K1...1&sr=8-11&keywords=1997+toyota+4runner+brakes
Patton
New member
VERY nice but probably a little overkill for my flat Ohio driving.
01thunder
New member
overkill? not really. when i want to brake, i want to stop. oe runner rotors warp too easily. i've had 2 runners and they did the same with stock rotors and wasted money replacing with oe ones before i found this upgrade. anyone here will tell you that this upgrade is by far one of the easiest to do and worth the money. it cost a little more than stock parts but well worth it.
fourharts56
New member
I just replaced my front and rear brakes this past weekend. Replaced everything, pads, shoes, drums, discs and all internal mounting hardware. I used Raybestos parts for everything with the QC (quiet ceramic) for the disc pads. I was really impressed with the quality of the forgings for the discs and the accuracy of all the replacement parts like springs and pins.
Bottom line is the parts I bought on the internet were cheaper than OE but it was all Raybestos which is a good brake brand. By the way I don't go usually anything other than OE parts but Raybestos has high ratings.
Bottom line is the parts I bought on the internet were cheaper than OE but it was all Raybestos which is a good brake brand. By the way I don't go usually anything other than OE parts but Raybestos has high ratings.
PitbullRescuer
New member
Not overkill by any means. The factory brakes on these trucks are so grossly undersized you could almost consider them unsafe. Add your boat into the equation and it's that much worse.
You can certainly just replace your rotors but you'll be doing pretty regularly or living with the pulsation. Or, you can do the Tundra upgrade which is a direct bolt on. Do it once & do it right as they say.
LittleCaesar
New member
The Tundra brake upgrade is well worth the investment if one tows anything. No more warped rotors.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Well, I have no pulsation and I have the factory rotors, never turned, on my '99 with 155k. I am nearing the end-of-life on the second set of pads, at which time I will turn those bad boys if the metal is there. When I want to stop the truck, it stops. I just had to stop short from 40 mph on the GWB into Manhattan when a stack of warning cones fell off a road dept. truck right in front of me.
I believe they heat up in the mountains and when towing. But for NJ flatland driving and no towing they do okay for me. My '97 HiLux with 15" wheels that goes to the mountains in Brazil on the weekends is a different story. With a boat to tow, I would probably upgrade.
Two important things are: 1) hand-torque your lugs to 83 ft-lbs., ALWAYS. 2) Don't neglect maintenance on your rear drums. The fronts do MOST of the work, but when you REALLY need to stop, working drums make a huge difference. (Mine are still on the factory shoes (almost done), but the drums are NAPA's that went on at 20k in 2000 when junior left the e-brake on for 40 miles in the first week he had his license and fried the factory drums. Shoes were ok.
I believe they heat up in the mountains and when towing. But for NJ flatland driving and no towing they do okay for me. My '97 HiLux with 15" wheels that goes to the mountains in Brazil on the weekends is a different story. With a boat to tow, I would probably upgrade.
Two important things are: 1) hand-torque your lugs to 83 ft-lbs., ALWAYS. 2) Don't neglect maintenance on your rear drums. The fronts do MOST of the work, but when you REALLY need to stop, working drums make a huge difference. (Mine are still on the factory shoes (almost done), but the drums are NAPA's that went on at 20k in 2000 when junior left the e-brake on for 40 miles in the first week he had his license and fried the factory drums. Shoes were ok.
Last edited:
Patton
New member
Thank you for all of the info. Since I did have good luck with my factory rotors, I won't rule out a direct replacement. If the difference is only a few hundred, I will probably do the upgrade though. I also have 75 series BFG AT/TA's which are heavier and slightly taller than the 70 series Dunlops that it came with.
LittleCaesar
New member
If Patton did not tow anything, I'd say to keep it stock. But a 3800lb boat setup behind him, even with surge brakes, it would be easier to stop with the Tundra upgrade.
fourharts56
New member
I would agree here with Little Caesar, I live on the coast in Virginia and just replaced my orginal brakes on a 2000 Sport with factory ones, have no problems before or after replacing. If you are pulling something or live in the mountains I can see where the Tundra upgrade would be a great idea. My 1987 T4R that I towed a boat with for 4 years it was a challenge to stop the whole rig together even with surge brakes and it wore out the pads fast.
The cost difference between swapping out original and Tundra upgrade is in the calipers, if you go with stock you don't need to replace the calipers. The difference between the pads and discs are minimal but each caliper is around $280 new for the Tundra. Several people get them used on ebay or from a yard but I don't like used parts.
:roadkill:
PitbullRescuer
New member
This is one mod you don't really have to go OEM on. I've used the reman calipers from Advance Auto twice, they're great. $85/side. Return the 4Runner calipers for the core. You can do the whole job for around $325 total.
pedmonds0219
New member
The Tundra upgrade is well worth the money spent in my opinion. There is no substitute for having the piece of mind that the upgrade will give you. It was the first thing I did to my truck when I bought it back in August and am very very happy with the results. If you are towing a boat as well then I wouldn't think twice about it. The difference between the two is like night and day. And you can always get the calipers from autozone, which are cheaper by about $100 over OEM. I did mine for $360 out the door, and it isn't a difficult job to do yourself. DO IT!!!
Good brakes are definitely necessary in or around FL, on account of FL drivrers :whipping2 I kid, I kid.
There isn't a good reason not to do the TBU, I mean, in an emergency it could make it worth the $$$ in a single use. I need to do it on mine, came from driving things like a GSR Integra w/Hawk pads a d brembo rotors or an Evolution8 that had brembos all around.... yeah the t4r brakes feel like bicycle brakes. I just keep seeing different info about doing the 13WL with the 16" 3-spokes and fitment issues
