break pad need to be replaced?

[Curly Jefferson]

i don't think that's true.

also, according to my system: OE Pad Material Is Ceramic.

You are entitled to your opinion..

I have a fleet of over 50 vehicles and in our experience aftermarket ceramic pads and shoes eat our rotors and drums....

I would rather replace pads and shoes than rotors and drums.

From the following link:

https://www.topbrakes.com/c/faq


Why don't you recommend Ceramic Brake Pads?

Let's start by saying that ceramic brake pads have a place in the automotive industry. They were designed to be a low-dust, noise-free brake pad. They came into popularity after the discontinued use of asbestos-based brake pads. At that time, semi-metallic pads exhibited problems with higher noise and dust levels.

Ceramic Brake Pads were NEVER designed to be a performance brake pad! Some companies have done a terrific job marketing their higher-priced, ceramic pads to the consumer as a performance pad. Ceramic brake pads typically have lower friction coefficients, and act as an insulator - raising rotor temperatures in cast-iron disc systems. When you have a vehicle that has persistent braking problems- the last thing you want to do is install components that have a LOWER friction coefficient and that RAISE effective operating temperatures! See our section on how this can cause ' Warped Rotors "
Premium-grade semi-metallic or hybrid pads are more effective for handling elevated temperatures and dissipating heat away from rotors. Most, if not all, semi-metallic pads have a degree of ceramic content ALREADY IN the brake pad.

Premium-grade, semi-metallic pads can offer LOW-DUST, NOISE-FREE Performance without sacrificing stopping power and increasing rotor temperatures!
Most organizations with fleet vehicles and other extreme-service applications already know what we're telling you: High-quality semi-metallic pads offer the best combination of stopping-power and extended-wear of any brake pad type on the marketplace today!

 

[nevada]

You are entitled to your opinion..

I have a fleet of over 50 vehicles and in our experience aftermarket ceramic pads and shoes eat our rotors and drums....

I would rather replace pads and shoes than rotors and drums.

From the following link:

https://www.topbrakes.com/c/faq


Why don't you recommend Ceramic Brake Pads?

Let's start by saying that ceramic brake pads have a place in the automotive industry. They were designed to be a low-dust, noise-free brake pad. They came into popularity after the discontinued use of asbestos-based brake pads. At that time, semi-metallic pads exhibited problems with higher noise and dust levels.

Ceramic Brake Pads were NEVER designed to be a performance brake pad! Some companies have done a terrific job marketing their higher-priced, ceramic pads to the consumer as a performance pad. Ceramic brake pads typically have lower friction coefficients, and act as an insulator - raising rotor temperatures in cast-iron disc systems. When you have a vehicle that has persistent braking problems- the last thing you want to do is install components that have a LOWER friction coefficient and that RAISE effective operating temperatures! See our section on how this can cause ' Warped Rotors "
Premium-grade semi-metallic or hybrid pads are more effective for handling elevated temperatures and dissipating heat away from rotors. Most, if not all, semi-metallic pads have a degree of ceramic content ALREADY IN the brake pad.

Premium-grade, semi-metallic pads can offer LOW-DUST, NOISE-FREE Performance without sacrificing stopping power and increasing rotor temperatures!
Most organizations with fleet vehicles and other extreme-service applications already know what we're telling you: High-quality semi-metallic pads offer the best combination of stopping-power and extended-wear of any brake pad type on the marketplace today!

that's all fine and dandy, but you forgot the part where the OEM pad IS ceramic.

 

[dekeman]

Whatever you do don't let someone talk you into cramic pads, they may last a bit longer but they tend to eat rotors.

And squeal like castrated pigs.
Do pigs even get castrated?
I don't want to know.

 

[Americas High Five]

my 2010 Limited just hit 74,000 miles...still running original factory pads/rotors with about 3mm left on the front pads and 4mm left on the rear pads.

 

[MarkWalker]

My '11 has 62k and I just had to replace the front pads, they were down to 3mm.

Backs are at 4, might do them next oil change.

I live in Houston so lots of stop and go, pretty pleased with 62k here.

 

[badhabits]

There was a thread which I can't find that talked about it not being necessary to turn or replace the rotors with every pad change, and be wary if the service center wants to do either. I am not sure of the out come of that thread, but I would check if they want to do rotor work to see if really necessary.

:noidea:

 

[Kennyr44]

I installed brake pads for 30 years daily at work without turning or replacing rotors unless they needed it. If the rotors are within thickness specs and the vehicle doesnt shutter and the steering wheel doesnt shake when braking just put on new pads. Turning rotors that are good just makes them thinner. I dont turn rotors anyway. Rotors are cheap now so just replace them if needed. And if the oem pads are not rediculously priced always go with them. Just my experience after doing about a zillion brake jobs.