Brian2sun Build Thread
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crazydubman
New member
Hey Brian,
Now that you have gotten more miles on the 4.88's, how are you liking them? Do you think 5.29's would have been a little overgeared or perfect for your wheel and tire package with the 3.4 auto?
With the new beadlocks im sitting at about 112lbs per corner on my 305/70's which is probably around the 35" tire size. I'm trying to decide whether 4.88's would be a good choice or if I should consider 5.29's for my particular setup? Thinking whether weight or overall diameter plays a bigger role in the need for more gearing.
Now that you have gotten more miles on the 4.88's, how are you liking them? Do you think 5.29's would have been a little overgeared or perfect for your wheel and tire package with the 3.4 auto?
With the new beadlocks im sitting at about 112lbs per corner on my 305/70's which is probably around the 35" tire size. I'm trying to decide whether 4.88's would be a good choice or if I should consider 5.29's for my particular setup? Thinking whether weight or overall diameter plays a bigger role in the need for more gearing.
SCRunner12
New member
Todd, I remember reading a while back that Brian really liked the 4.88's and 35's. I'll try to find the post, but he mentioned that 4.88's and 33's didn't seem exactly right for him, but as soon as he bumped up to 35's it fell right into that sweet spot.
Nevermind, this is the post I was thinking of.
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crazydubman
New member
well I remember that thread. I think that was when he was trying to figure out whether Jmoney-$$$ should go 4.88's or 5.29's with his manual 4cyl.
But then there was this response in a 4.88 gear thread from 2/2011 and it has me wondering.
This is why im unsure what to go with.
But then there was this response in a 4.88 gear thread from 2/2011 and it has me wondering.
This is why im unsure what to go with.
rideexileex
Senior Member
With my experience, I still enjoy my 4.88's, but thats only with the additional grunt of the SC for those long drives to the trail. If I didnt have that, I would definitely go 5.29's if its a wheeler/camp rig.
crazydubman
New member
Good to know. I think I have to strongly look into the 5.29's. Still want to see how Brian likes his setup seeing as he lives in the mountains and is not supercharged.
I don't mind a little over gearing. I usually drive 65-70 on the highway but heading in to the mountains through Sonora on 108 was pretty brutal with the 4.30's and my raceline/305/70 package. I'm a little worried about the additional 25lbs a corner extra from the beadlocks.
brian2sun
Elite Member
Hey guys, I know it's a bit contradictory, but here's what my exprecience has been..
When I had 33s and 4.88s, the truck would try to hold a higher gear going up the mtn, so I would go slow in 3rd in a lot of places (O/D off) and bog out. And I would have to floor it to get it to downshift to 2nd, but then the rpms would be in the high 3s/low4s and be too high to hold for more than a few seconds. So that's why I thought 5.29s would have given me the power I need to hold 3rd gear with 33s. In retrospect, I actually think 33s/4.56s would be a better combo than 33s/5.29s because 33s/4.56s would put the shift points back closer to stock. The tranny will shift more, but it won't big out as easy.
When I went to 35s, the bigger tires put my shift points with the 4.88s back closer to stock shift points. So going up the same mtn, it's a little slower in 3rd gear now, but now I don't have to floor it to get it to downshift in to 2nd, and I can hold 2nd gear for a lot longer. My tranny goes between 2nd and 3rd more now (compared to when I had 33s), but my truck makes it up the mtn easier (than it did bogging down because it wanted to hold 3rd the whole way with 33s). So since my shift points are closer to where they should be with the 35s/4.88s, I like this combo better than 33s/4.88s.
I'm totally content with my set up now because I like to still be able to cruise on the freeway at 70 w/o my rpms too high (and get better gas mileage than 5.29s). And it still has enough power for the trails. But, if my truck was strictly a wheeling rig and only hit the freeway to go to the trails, then I would give up a little gas mileage and higher rpms and go 5.29s.
My truck isn't fast by any means, but 35s/4.88s is a good compromise for everything I like to do with it. If I get a SC someday, it will be even better (probably perfect), but honestly, it's just ok enough now that I probably won't SC anytime soon. I hope that wasn't confusing, lol.
When I had 33s and 4.88s, the truck would try to hold a higher gear going up the mtn, so I would go slow in 3rd in a lot of places (O/D off) and bog out. And I would have to floor it to get it to downshift to 2nd, but then the rpms would be in the high 3s/low4s and be too high to hold for more than a few seconds. So that's why I thought 5.29s would have given me the power I need to hold 3rd gear with 33s. In retrospect, I actually think 33s/4.56s would be a better combo than 33s/5.29s because 33s/4.56s would put the shift points back closer to stock. The tranny will shift more, but it won't big out as easy.
When I went to 35s, the bigger tires put my shift points with the 4.88s back closer to stock shift points. So going up the same mtn, it's a little slower in 3rd gear now, but now I don't have to floor it to get it to downshift in to 2nd, and I can hold 2nd gear for a lot longer. My tranny goes between 2nd and 3rd more now (compared to when I had 33s), but my truck makes it up the mtn easier (than it did bogging down because it wanted to hold 3rd the whole way with 33s). So since my shift points are closer to where they should be with the 35s/4.88s, I like this combo better than 33s/4.88s.
I'm totally content with my set up now because I like to still be able to cruise on the freeway at 70 w/o my rpms too high (and get better gas mileage than 5.29s). And it still has enough power for the trails. But, if my truck was strictly a wheeling rig and only hit the freeway to go to the trails, then I would give up a little gas mileage and higher rpms and go 5.29s.
My truck isn't fast by any means, but 35s/4.88s is a good compromise for everything I like to do with it. If I get a SC someday, it will be even better (probably perfect), but honestly, it's just ok enough now that I probably won't SC anytime soon. I hope that wasn't confusing, lol.
crazydubman
New member
Thanks for the detailed explanation. It would seem that since the 35's allow it to kick down easier, that it would help keep the trans from shifting too low causing the excessive drops to 2nd.
It would seem that with the weight of my wheel/tire package it may be best to stick with the 4.88's to keep a somewhat sensible highway rpm.
I just need a little more power back from where I am now. I figure my combo weighs about what yours does now.
It would seem that with the weight of my wheel/tire package it may be best to stick with the 4.88's to keep a somewhat sensible highway rpm.
I just need a little more power back from where I am now. I figure my combo weighs about what yours does now.
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brian2sun
Elite Member
I think you'll be happy. Really, there isn't a huge difference from 4.88s to 5.29s, so there's not really a bad choice here. But 4.88s work good for me and since your truck and what you want to do with it is similar to me, I think 4.88s will work out well for you. And I suspect with the auto tranny, that 5.29s/35s might give the same scenario with the shift points that I felt with 4.88s/33s.
Also, I'm one of the few on here that has ran every normal tire size from 265/70s to 315s (including the 305/70s). You will notice a difference between those and 315s. 305s are a lot closer to 285s in terms of feel, power, etc. The diameter and weight make more difference than width, or so that has been my experience. I also believe going back to alloys from steelies made a somewhat noticeable difference in power.
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crazydubman
New member
Right on Brian. Glad to hear you think the 4.88's would be the better choice. My concern was more the weight of the setup with being pretty limited with going any larger. I'm thinking the 305's will be as large as I go.
rideexileex
Senior Member
What's your next set going to be? Ive ran 265,285,and 35's, but haven't tried the 305/70 flavor, and I'm starting to think that might be the sweet spot for these rigs.
SCRunner12
New member
I really want to try 295 or 285/75/17's next for some added height, but not a full blown 35. 295's are a bit wider, but I like the 285/75's since it's almost like a tall skinny, but 34's instead of 33's.
Any plans for a supercharger in the close future Brian? How are the MTR's treating you?
Any plans for a supercharger in the close future Brian? How are the MTR's treating you?
brian2sun
Elite Member
I'll be sticking with 315s for a while. Since the 4runner isn't my DD anymore, I only put on like 3-5K a year, so these tires will last many years.
Since I don't drive the 4runner nearly as much, it's more of a treat when I do drive it, so I don't mind just cruising. So I don't think I'll be dropping big money on a SC at this point.
I saw you driving your runner this morning. I like it. I am working on the roads up here and making people upset. Lol I am in the water truck. If you have time stop and say hi..I want to check out your rig.
Btw.... we will have the 173 torn up for about 2 weeks. So plan accordling. Lol
Btw.... we will have the 173 torn up for about 2 weeks. So plan accordling. Lol
brian2sun
Elite Member
Haha, nice! Damn, did Caltrans decide to do the whole road in 1 day!? I've never seen so many road repair trucks in my life, lol! I'll look for ya if I head that way, and thanks for the heads up on 173!
mcaz5
New member
Hey Brian, quick question regarding the pounding you did on your firewall to fit 35s. The circle I have marked below is where I'm getting my rubbing when I stuff and turn the wheel, did you do any pounding on that exact spot or did you do more to the upper right? The area I have marked is where I see most people cut out and weld a new flat piece of metal, but I don't have access to that.
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brian2sun
Elite Member
Yes I pounded the holy crap outta that spot with a large sledge (the "circle"/hole in the pic is a plastic plug that I removed and put back in when I was done). I'm a big dude and I hit it many times as hard as I could to get it to cave in enough to the point where I don't rub. I also pounded that whole area in the photo where it's darker (I later shot it with black spray paint afterwards so that's why that area is darker in the pic). All in all, I would say I pounded in that entire area about 1-1.5" in.
One thing to be careful of.. your ABS module is right behind that area on the pass side. You'll want to remove the lower interior trim pieces by your feet (on both drivers' and pass. sides), and then remove the ABS control (pass side behind the trim piece) so you don't damage it. Then you can reinstall it all when you're done pounding. I also had to cut some material off the lower corners of the plastic interior trim pieces on both sides because I pounded it in so much that they didn't fit anymore.
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brian2sun
Elite Member
Also the easiest way to check the clearance is to remove the whole strut and put a jack under the front LCA. Remove the tire, pound, put the tire back on (with just one lug), raise the jack so the tire is fully stuffed and cycle the steering wheel. Then repeat as necessary until it doesn't rub when fully stuffed. Once you do the first side, you'll know about what you'll need to do on the other side, so you won't need to keep taking the tire on and off to check it as many times.
mcaz5
New member
Sounds great. I think ill give this a try today. If I did remove the strut I would need to have an alignment done though right?
