BrianSD_42 's Morimoto Mini D2S 3.0 Panorama Halo Retrofit DIY Journey
- Thread starter BrianSD_42
- Start date
TBuzz
New member
Yep Thanks a lot Brian!! These are so much better than the OEM set up. The very little I drive my truck at night will be so much better. I did wake up early yesterday just to go driving around in the dark. Biggest problem I see now is that I need to do something with corner lights and other lighting to update it a little. I've never owned a vehicle with lighting like this either. It's a much different driving experience, so clean and bright.
Also, going into this I didnt know much about shroud selection, bulbs and so on. I do know some of the retro I see I like and some I don't. I think these look great all in all, kinda match my LX450 wheel accents actually.
This guy is only 50 feet in front of me. Although he's a nice size buck you an see the cut off on just on his body. If say that's no more than 3 feet high, so they need to come up a little.
Also, going into this I didnt know much about shroud selection, bulbs and so on. I do know some of the retro I see I like and some I don't. I think these look great all in all, kinda match my LX450 wheel accents actually.
This guy is only 50 feet in front of me. Although he's a nice size buck you an see the cut off on just on his body. If say that's no more than 3 feet high, so they need to come up a little.
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T4Rfirefighter
New member
I've been so frustrated with the aiming issues on my retrofit, so I'm hoping your updated fix solves it. I used TYC housings as well.
BrianSD_42
New member
If you have issues where one or more lights are aimed far down and you do not have insane rake then your light, the cheap plastic on the TYC likely came apart. It isn't something you can see until you fully remove the light. I had one light 5 feet lower than the other at several car lengths so that was a big indicator.
See this post on the previous page.
0xfded
New member
Brian, thanks for this thread. I'm following along as I plan out my own retrofit.
One question, regarding your comment above--the 5500k Morimoto XB and 4800k Philips 85122XV both claim similar light output (3400 lm vs. 3300 lm). What is it about them that gives you a superior impression? Is the lumen rating not telling the whole story?
Cheers, thanks again for taking the time to share all of this with us!
BrianSD_42
New member
I just like the 5500 color spectrum better. And the Morimoto are great bulbs.
Ed_C
Senior Member
[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] have you ever worked with the glass lens Depo replacements? I picked up a pair (adjusters on my OEMs broke due to rust and lenses are full of small rock chips) and am tempted to retrofit square-lens Mini D2S before installing them on the truck.
BrianSD_42
New member
I'm not sure depos can be easily baked. You should hit up @MTD about this one.
0xfded
New member
Ah, I thought from your post that you'd switched from the Morimoto's to the Philips bulbs. I'm leaning towards the Morimoto's just for the 5500 spectrum as well, was just curious about what made the Philips stand out.
BrianSD_42
New member
I've actually ran all of them now
* Morimoto 5500K on Lexus CT200h
* Phillips Std. 4300K and NightBreaker 4800K on 4Runner
* OSRAM CBI 5000K on Acura TL
I really like the color spectrum of the Morimoto 5500K the best and the Osram (at 3.5x the cost) 2nd best.
Get the $50 Morimoto, you won't be disappointed.
0xfded
New member
So I have one dumb question:
After everything--projector, shrouds, LEDs, etc--are put back together again, and it's time to put the glass back on, it's safe for everything to go into the oven?
I haven't heard anyone say anything to the contrary, and I can't really see how it's being done otherwise, but I don't really want to find out the hard way.
After everything--projector, shrouds, LEDs, etc--are put back together again, and it's time to put the glass back on, it's safe for everything to go into the oven?
I haven't heard anyone say anything to the contrary, and I can't really see how it's being done otherwise, but I don't really want to find out the hard way.
BrianSD_42
New member
Yes. You assemble everything, check it, then make sure it is properly glued then put the glass back on and the clips then bake it the final time.
Be sure to clean the inside of the glass real well with alcohol swabs and clean cloth that doesn't have any fabric softener residue on it.
Be sure to clean the inside of the glass real well with alcohol swabs and clean cloth that doesn't have any fabric softener residue on it.
TheDurk
Elite Member
I believe you, but I'd love to know the science on that one...do you have a link?
BrianSD_42
New member
I find that when I use my yellow Costco detailing towels on my truck and they are washed with fabric softener the soap residue with sometimes be visible on the glass. Now I always wash my detailing rags without fabric softener. When cleaning the glass if any residue gets on the glass there is a good chance you might not see it until the light heats up which can be really annoying.
Ed_C
Senior Member
Fabric softener leaves a waxy residue which can be transferred onto the surface you're wiping. If you use liquid fabric softener often you'll find the gunky stuff in the washing machine's dispenser. I worked for a company in charge of several manufacturers' press vehicles, we never washed any cloths (be it MF or cotton) with softeners. I wash my own Mf's by hand and air dry
0xfded
New member
Quick question for those of you who have done this--has anyone noticed if their High Beam indicator light stopped working after the retrofit?
I noticed mine isn't working any longer, and while I figure it's probably just burnt out, I thought I'd check here before pulling the cluster out.
Otherwise, retrofit just held up great through a few hundred miles of BC winter nighttime driving. I think the aim is good--only flashed by two oncoming cars, but both times it was at the crest of a hill. (And oddly, both times were by people who were closely tailgating others, so maybe they were just dicks.)
I noticed mine isn't working any longer, and while I figure it's probably just burnt out, I thought I'd check here before pulling the cluster out.
Otherwise, retrofit just held up great through a few hundred miles of BC winter nighttime driving. I think the aim is good--only flashed by two oncoming cars, but both times it was at the crest of a hill. (And oddly, both times were by people who were closely tailgating others, so maybe they were just dicks.)
Its not the bulb if it was working before you did the retrofit. I bought this, plugged it into the unused socket and works as normal.
0xfded
New member
See, that speaks to exactly what was going through my mind: the indicator is failing because the passenger side H4 connector is open.
Has anyone else needed anything like this? I'm a little surprised TRS doesn't have something like this to include in the kit (or maybe they do, and I just didn't know to seek it out.)
