Brilliant's Mod Thread

Welp... New injector was held open, flooding the cylinder and causing the leak. We pumped out a couple cups of fuel from the cylinder.

I got these 'oem' injectors off eBay from a brick and mortar parts store. they are in Toyota packaging that looks authentic. There are slight differences from old to new and looking them up, the ones for sale on amazon oem are the same as my eBay ones.

Tomorrow I'm going to take one in and compare it at the dealer and see what they think. Also going to pick up a set and send these eBay ones back.

Alex thanks for the help and your patience.had I had any suspicion of the parts prior I wouldnt have wasted you time.
 
Alex thanks for the help and your patience.had I had any suspicion of the parts prior I wouldnt have wasted you time.

No worries-I had a good time learning a thing or two about trouble shooting the fuel system.

I noticed a very real improvement in throttle/boost response on the way home. That big ol' vacuum leak must have been wreaking havoc.

These are the injectors I bought it looks like the seller is inactive, but maybe you can find him somewhere else?
 
No worries-I had a good time learning a thing or two about trouble shooting the fuel system.

I noticed a very real improvement in throttle/boost response on the way home. That big ol' vacuum leak must have been wreaking havoc.

Good you got something out of it. I felt pretty bad keeping you there so long just to find out it was the parts I bought.

I think it would be worthwhile to capture the fuel relay jumping for the DIY/maintenance area. The leaking rail is what I was fearful of and why I was hesitant to do the job in the first place.

On the ebay items, I put in as counterfeit part return request last night. No argument from the seller, no rebuttal, and I have a return label this morning.
 
Composite panels came in. I'll be using these to make the platform. They are extremely light and rigid.
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I'm curious to see where this goes! I've been looking at these as well. Where did you get them from?
 
Me too! I think I have it sorted and got my samples in today.

These are 2nds I ordered on line. They are super rigid and light.

Let me know how it goes for you. I've actually found a local metal supplier that has this in stock in various sizes.

I'm needing to build a platform in the Rover that is suited for overlanding, and this is the perfect material. Just want to know if it's as easy to work with as steel. Also, I assume you plan on welding it together since you got a spool gun? Or do you plan on using fiberglass tape on it?
 
Let me know how it goes for you. I've actually found a local metal supplier that has this in stock in various sizes.

I'm needing to build a platform in the Rover that is suited for overlanding, and this is the perfect material. Just want to know if it's as easy to work with as steel. Also, I assume you plan on welding it together since you got a spool gun? Or do you plan on using fiberglass tape on it?

Its Aluminum composite, so more complicated than steel. The material is thin gauge sheet so its not easily weld. 1/8" is the suggested thinnest for std mig setup.

Not sure of the fiberglass tape application. I plan to edge finish the composite. Many options like solid, channel, double L, etc. From there I can weld on the edge finish 1/8" material.
 
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Got it back together again and running generally good. Its smooth, but throwing code P0170 lean bank on occasion. I can clear it and it goes away for the rest of the drive. Seems to be warm, at idle when its throwing it. I'm not sure the A/F made it through the 'gassing' so ordered another. My Bosch wideband feeding my plx sensor lived. That was nice, I can still read A/F on my gauge.

Trouble shooting the leak, we took it apart reset the injectors and rail, reassembled, same leak. Checked again the feed and return lines, nothing. Took it apart again, lots of gas on the plug so started to think stuck injector or misfiring injector. Gas was in the exhaust. That didn't explain the rail like though, we continued.

Alex found a way online to jump the fuel pump relay. This was pretty handy to run the fuel through the rail with just the injectors on. No leaks observed, BUT ... the cylinder filled with gas after a minute of running! The leak observed before, on the back of the engine, was gas coming out of the intake. We sucked out 2 cups of fuel from the cylinder (top/bottom) and left it there.

Crappy pic of relay jumping. Jump pins 3-5, and with the ignition on, the fuel will cycle in through the rail. This effectively lets you test the injector install before you drive it.

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By now any question I had OEM injectors was gone. They were slightly different than OEM, had paint dots, but the crappy orings where more of a clue. After a couple installs, the orings were toast and they wouldnt seal.

OEM packaging (left) vs counterfit ones (right). Differences are of course the box vs bubble pack. The label text is different, one oring is red not black, and no paint dots.
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Fake Below
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OEM Below
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I put it all back together again, a backfire and 20 mins to burn all the gas out the tail pipe and it was running right again.

I changed the oil, a sizable amount of gas was in the oil.

Test spin throwing the code, stuck throttle, shift to neutral + key off, popped the hood to get home, a very exciting test drive.

I cleaned the MAF, checked voltage standing, while blowing, but I've got a new AF meter on the way. Expect the nightmare to soon be over. Oh and I routed/adjusted the accelerator cable correctly.

Lessons learned.
 
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Test spin throwing the code. I cleaned the MAF, and I've got a new AF meter on the way. Expect the nightmare to soon be over. Lessons learned.
Grateful for your posting about it. Good information to know if one has to replace their own injectors at some point.

Hope for smooth sailing ahead.
 
Found the member's runner I was looking for. I'm not sure he's around anymore, but I dug around some old posts and found the part number for a 96-98 limited bumper that wasn't chrome.

Now kinda sitting around waiting for a door to come and a bumper I ordered.

I had to repair a few tabs in the misc flare peices I am putting together, so out came the epoxy and some other projects I had in mind. Waiting for bondo to dry...


82998-12170 is the insert part number if you want to illuminate the locker switch.

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I'm looking to add switches for my Fogs & Driving lights thanks for the info.
 
Gallagher Head Lake and Lake Winachee.

Evening was quite cold and made me rethink the sleeping platform after retreating to the 4runner. Night brought snow, and we left at 1st light. It was raining so we headed north to avoid the rain.



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