Brilliant's Mod Thread

Looks great!

I don't think the rivnut pulling will be an issue for you, especially if you use a few of them. My front legs just sit on the roof and have no moved yet.

If you're worried about it you could perhaps remove the headliner and use a piece of flatstock or something to bolt through to. Just an idea (which I think would be overkill)

The bigger tires really filled out your wheel wells and look nice! My next tires will be of the "skinny" variety for sure... Did you notice any gain/loss in acceleration? My 285/70R17s were the biggest drain on my power ever...

I was hoping to avoid removing the headliner... I'm lazy.

I was running load c duratracs so these are heavier. Not sure about acceleration, I've been driving the car this past week while I was paintingthese wheels. it's probably about the same as yours, but I don't have a butt reference. It handles better though, that I can say.
 
I was hoping to avoid removing the headliner... I'm lazy.

I was running load c duratracs so these are heavier. Not sure about acceleration, I've been driving the car this past week while I was paintingthese wheels. it's probably about the same as yours, but I don't have a butt reference. It handles better though, that I can say.

Yeah, I'd like to remove my headliner some day in order to do some sound deadening but I am sure it's a pain.

I honestly don't think you'll have any issues with the rivnuts though. I've seen them used quite a bit for roof racks on Land Rovers.
 
I will be curious to know if your gas mileage is any better with your narrower tires. Going from a 265/75R16 to a 275/70R17 cost me about 1.5 MPG.
 
I will be curious to know if your gas mileage is any better with your narrower tires. Going from a 265/75R16 to a 275/70R17 cost me about 1.5 MPG.

Damn, that's quite a bit of loss. I'm 265/70/16, but maybe I'll stay. How many you get on a tank before and after?
 
Coopers look great. I love mine, I think you'll be happy with them.

I also love my coopers. Probably the best tires I have run.

I noticed a huge reduction in road noise with them. I took a trip to leavenworth, and acceleration is definitely impacted. Overall pretty happy with them between the stiffer sidewalls on road and the lower pavement noise.

Curious what PSI you guys run on the road. These are a lot firmer than the duratracks.

I will be curious to know if your gas mileage is any better with your narrower tires. Going from a 265/75R16 to a 275/70R17 cost me about 1.5 MPG.

I think my mileage is going to go down, these are 0.5 narrower, but they are a lot heavier than load C duratracs.

One of my favorite builds on here. Well done!
:cheers:
 
Mine are on my GX, so it won't be relevant for you but I think I run them around 40psi. Mine are E load rated

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Roof Rail Extensions

Put on the rail roof extensions to gain full roof rack.

Process:

  • Obtain OE rail, cut it down, drill holes at end
  • Drill a 1/8" hole on roof, extend with panel step bit to rivnut diameter
  • Put RTV on back of the rivnut, install
  • Install rail, put RTV on fastener

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I noticed a huge reduction in road noise with them. I took a trip to leavenworth, and acceleration is definitely impacted. Overall pretty happy with them between the stiffer sidewalls on road and the lower pavement noise.

Curious what PSI you guys run on the road. These are a lot firmer than the duratracks.



I think my mileage is going to go down, these are 0.5 narrower, but they are a lot heavier than load C duratracs.


:cheers:

I run 36psi
 
Argh I can't believe I said car. That's what I get for correcting people anytime they call it a car. My pendantic nature gets the best of me once again.
 
Put on the rail extensions today. I will get rid of the aero bars, but for now, I put them back on.

RTVed the rivnuts underneath, then again on the screw and on top of the nut when set the rail.

So why the break in the rail? Is it slightly wider than the factory rails, I cannot really tell from the photos, but I assumed this would be a continuous set of rails when you posed the question initially. So I was curious as to what your reasons were.

Thanks!
 
So why the break in the rail? Is it slightly wider than the factory rails, I cannot really tell from the photos, but I assumed this would be a continuous set of rails when you posed the question initially. So I was curious as to what your reasons were.

Thanks!
I have a sunroof. The sunroof edge is wider than the inner span of the rail. I didn't want to mount it and have the sunroof interfere. I have it 1/8 inch.
 
I thought I would detail post for limiteds since I couldn't find what I needed elsewhere. Lots of posts for SR5s but not limiteds, and I never found a concise one.

Parts List
Cluster - 3 x - Type 24 | T6.5 wedge
Key - 1 x - Type 74 | T5 wedge
Ashtray - 1 x - Type 74 | T5 wedge
AT Shifter – 1 x - Type 24 | T6.5 wedge
Glove Box – 1 x Type 74 | T5 wedge
Rear Window button- 1 x – Type A | T3 8mm Japanese Instrument panel bulb
ECT/Rear Defroster - 1 x - Type A | T3 8mm Japanese Instrument panel bulb
Climate Control – 2 x – Type A | T3 8mm Japanese panel bulbs & 2 x - Type B | T4 10mm Japanese panel bulbs
Flasher - 1 x – Type A | T3 8mm Japanese panel bulbs
Cig Lighter – Custom. I pulled the old bulb out, cut off the housing from a Type 74 so it was bare LED, wires, and resistors. I put it in with a tad of silicone.
Window Switches – Micro LED, requires printed circuit board solder, modified type 74s.

I used superstars with lens covers for the Type 24s for the cluster and AT shifter. The 3 LED ones do not fit, they are too loose (maybe glue them if you want). I used narrow LEDS for all the Typa A & B, dont buy they wide square heads, they will not fit the ECT and rear window button well.

Finally I can see my climate controls!

Puke green/yellow wasn't an option for color match, so I went green.

Note: some trimming of the Type A and B bulb's locking 'slats' had to be done to make them fit. I used a hobby knife and pliers to hold the bulbs.

Where I bought them:
LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS
www.autolumination.com
Bulb Guide: Automotive Bulb Visual Finder

I had 1 cluster, key ring, ECT, rear window, AT boot, climate controls, and glove box all out by previous owner. All better now. Hopefully this helps other limited owners sort it out what they need, but fix them. Its super easy.

Thank you so much for compiling this!
 
You've done a damn fine job on this 4Runner. I'll bet you just sit and stare at it sometimes, at length (... I would).

It has come together so well, it's incredible, and it's got a truly unique style. A lot of people shoot for that, but few achieve it. :bravo:

Thanks fish, I admit I have stood there looking at it out more than once. Also been by your thread quite a few times for inspiration. :)
 
URD 7th Injector and 2.2 Pulley

Objective: Complete injector install, and increase SC HP

Process:

  • Splice the fuel line
  • Run the injector harness and vacuum through passenger firewall grommet
  • With adapter harness, splice into car harness
  • Place URD controller in right side kick panel
  • Drill 1" hole in console panel for USB interface to load map more easily
  • Remove SC pulley with pulley puller
  • Install new SC, replace belt

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