BudBuilt TE skids and sliders

Intruder

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Finally got my BudBuilt skids and sliders today (though the diff skid is MIA) but all I got were instructions for installing FJ skid plates. Does anyone happen to have an electronic copy of the install instructions for the Trail Edition skids and sliders they could send me?
 
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No.

BB don't do instructions.

Consider yourself lucky you got FJ instructions. I got nothing with anything I ordered from them. Even after asking for winch plate instructions more than once. :rant:
 
Finally got my BudBuilt skids and sliders today (though the diff skid is MIA) but all I got were instructions for installing FJ skid plates. Does anyone happen to have an electronic copy of the install instructions for the Trail Edition skids and sliders they could send me?

Congratulations! Well .. almost since your diff skid is still AWOL.

Same with my BudBuilt skid plate order .. all I received were installation instructions for the FJC. For the most part, the FJC installation instructions will translate directly to the 4Runner. I did do a bit of headscratching regarding the big spacer plates that are supposed to sit sandwiched between the cross member and the transmission skid. First I thought they were missing, then I discovered that they were packaged with my fuel tank skid plate. Also, I couldn't initially determine from the instructions if the fuel tank skid plate brackets were supposed to sit inside the skid plate or outside. Bud's son was good enough to send me some additional pictures which might make the installation more self-evident. Send me a PM if you'd like me to send them to you.
 
Finally got my BudBuilt skids and sliders today (though the diff skid is MIA) but all I got were instructions for installing FJ skid plates. Does anyone happen to have an electronic copy of the install instructions for the Trail Edition skids and sliders they could send me?

For the skids......mine were the first ones on a 5th and they are 2010 FJ skid plates except the gas tank skid was from a 4th Gen. They are almost exactly the same as they use the but he had to modify a couple things here and there to fit. The crossmember was a little different as our frames have doublers in the middle.Should be the same to install as the FJ.

skid tip......put them on rear to front as that's the way they overlap. Just put all the bolts in loosely until you get them all started and then tighten them up.
 
For the skids......mine were the first ones on a 5th and they are 2010 FJ skid plates except the gas tank skid was from a 4th Gen. They are almost exactly the same as they use the but he had to modify a couple things here and there to fit. The crossmember was a little different as our frames have doublers in the middle.Should be the same to install as the FJ.
This is a relief to know. All my hardware bags have "FJ" written on them and crossed out and "4Runner" added on. I was starting to get worried that I'd gotten the wrong pallet and hence the missing diff skid.

skid tip......put them on rear to front as that's the way they overlap. Just put all the bolts in loosely until you get them all started and then tighten them up.
Good to know. Is it easier if the skids go on before the sliders or vice versa?
 
Probably sliders then skids. Sliders have to be flush with the frame then the skids should attach on top of the sliders. At least that's the way it is with BB sliders and SW skids.
 
This is a relief to know. All my hardware bags have "FJ" written on them and crossed out and "4Runner" added on. I was starting to get worried that I'd gotten the wrong pallet and hence the missing diff skid.


Good to know. Is it easier if the skids go on before the sliders or vice versa?
Not sure as I already had my SW sliders on already when Bud put them on the first time.

Just to clarify as my tip statement sounds confusing even to me.lol
The front one overlaps over the second one and the second over the third and so on back to the gas tank skid so they can't catch on rocks. But when you put them on you put the gas tank one on first and work forward. You should be obvious to you when you get under there. I used a floor jack and balanced them on it and jacked them up into place and started the bolts.

Another thing,the aft inboard carriage bolt ,in the gas tank skid that attaches to the bracket needs to point outward ......or else the driveshaft flange will hit it when the rear is flexed at an angle. Don't ask me how I know!lol Makes a awful grinding sound!
 
Not sure as I already had my SW sliders on already when Bud put them on the first time.

Just to clarify as my tip statement sounds confusing even to me.lol
The front one overlaps over the second one and the second over the third and so on back to the gas tank skid so they can't catch on rocks. But when you put them on you put the gas tank one on first and work forward. You should be obvious to you when you get under there. I used a floor jack and balanced them on it and jacked them up into place and started the bolts.

Another thing,the aft inboard carriage bolt ,in the gas tank skid that attaches to the bracket needs to point outward ......or else the driveshaft flange will hit it when the rear is flexed at an angle. Don't ask me how I know!lol Makes a awful grinding sound!

Just to clarify...When you say the carriage bolt "needs to point outward" do you mean outward from the center of the skid, or outward from the center of the truck? I haven't had a problem yet, but want to make sure I don't in the future either.
 
Also, I couldn't initially determine from the instructions if the fuel tank skid plate brackets were supposed to sit inside the skid plate or outside. Bud's son was good enough to send me some additional pictures which might make the installation more self-evident. Send me a PM if you'd like me to send them to you.

It seems like the fuel tank brackets would have to sit inside the skid otherwise you wouldn't be able to tighten the nuts after you mount it. The problem I ran into is that it seems the brackets are too short. The skid is right up against the gas tank but there's two inches left for the brackets to reach.
 
It seems like the fuel tank brackets would have to sit inside the skid otherwise you wouldn't be able to tighten the nuts after you mount it. The problem I ran into is that it seems the brackets are too short. The skid is right up against the gas tank but there's two inches left for the brackets to reach.

Hmmm.... Bud either sent the wrong pieces or you have them in the wrong spots. They are all different sizes if I recall, and mine fit perfectly. I reversed the outboard support by the rear tire to pull the hole skid that direction as I still had the driveshaft problem despite mounting that other support in the best manner.
 
I'm pretty sure i have them in the right spots. I just matched them up to where the short, medium, and long were on the stock skid when I took it off. I'll give it another go tomorrow after work and see if I can line it up better or something.
 
Maybe this picture helps sort things out ...

i-2FcwDbz-XL.jpg


The brackets do indeed need to bolted up so they sit inside the lip of the fuel tank skid plate.

I dunno why your fuel tank skid plate brackets are sitting 2 inches short of where they bolt up to the truck. At the risk of asking the obvious, are the fuel tank straps holding the fuel tank up properly? Did you need to detach the forward fuel tank strap in order to bolt up your BudBuilt sliders?
 
Yeah, that's exactly how mine is set up. Didn't need to touch the straps at all to install the sliders - only needed to remove the oem gas tank skid. I did find a post on an FJ forum where someone was having a similar issue and he said Bud told him to make sure the gas tank was closer to empty before putting the skid on. Mine is over 3/4 full, so that may have something to do with it.
 
Finally managed to get the gas tank skid on. Just took a floor jack to get it in place properly.

Just to clarify...When you say the carriage bolt "needs to point outward" do you mean outward from the center of the skid, or outward from the center of the truck? I haven't had a problem yet, but want to make sure I don't in the future either.

I think he meant like this...

4493cb9d-da14-261e.jpg
 
Here is how I did the outboard side of the gas tank. It really pulled it away from the driveshaft. As Harper7 said, it makes a horrific sound if it scrapes. Even with my bolt installed on the other side the way you show Marc, it still barely scraped making hard uphill right turns (like into a parking lot). I did install my supports on the inside of the skid flange for extra bearing strength.

IMG_8329.jpg~original
 
Michael, is that the one by the rear lower arms? If so, mine is mounted the same way. It was the one by the drive shaft I had to do the other way around to get the upper part to match the threaded hole.
 
Michael, is that the one by the rear lower arms? If so, mine is mounted the same way. It was the one by the drive shaft I had to do the other way around to get the upper part to match the threaded hole.

It is (rear gas skid support near back tire). I installed it backwards from the way it was meant to go in. It took a little effort to get at the upper bolt but it was worth it as it pulls the skid away from the driveshaft. Mine on the DS side is just like yours, aside from putting the support inside of that flange.

Sounds like we all had to do a little adjusting with these, but all in all I think Bud has a superb, well fitting product. I am very glad to have them.
 
skid tip......put them on rear to front as that's the way they overlap. Just put all the bolts in loosely until you get them all started and then tighten them up.

After finishing the install last night I'll add just one thing to your suggestion - put on the crossmember before the gas tank skid. It isn't vital, but it makes things easier.
 
On the crossmember, the lower rear holes in my frame are not threaded, but have holes on both sides of the frame.
crossmember.jpg

I am planning to pickup some long carriage bolts to go through the frame, unless someone can tell me why it would be a bad idea.
 

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