Building a pavement princess - 2014 TE build thread
- Thread starter TEQ.FZJ
- Start date
TEQ.FZJ
New member
And here's a picture of the HID cutoff against my garage for illustrative purposes only. Not trying to start a debate about HIDs in halogen projectors, plenty of those threads here already. Is it the best, sharpest cutoff? No. Is it decent? Yes. Is it dangerous, IMO, No. After doing lots of driving last night in traffic it's easy to see the light from these projectors is well contained. Pulling up behind traffic there is virtually no light scatter into people's windows and you could the distinct cutoff when driving by structures.
TEQ.FZJ
New member
Yup! The 80 gets the garage because insurance can replace the 4Runner. They can't replace the Land Cruiser nor will they cover all the parts installed. I hope it still fits when I switch to 37" tires!
3wbdriver
New member
Not trying to sidetrack you again but have you thought about Hagerty's or one of the other collector car insurance companies? I know I've thought about it, but never tried to contact them. I have a 72 Blazer that if I ever restore it's the route I want to take. State Farm has already told me they won't cover over a certain amount because of its vintage.
Looking good. Do you plan to complete a write up for the lift?
IN THE WORKS
And here's my short term plans of things I want to do:
- New wheels and 285/70 tires ordered. I'll do a teaser when those arrive
- Plan on doing a 2.5/1.5" lift
- Want to install N-Fab side steps
- Pasti Dip rear silver chin and roof rack
- Figure out a solution for a dog barrier net
TEQ.FZJ
New member
I have heard of insurance like that, but never looked into it. Does this insurance replace your normal comp/collision coverage or is it an add-on for custom parts and/or collector cars?
Yup, I'll update the thread when that time comes. Probably won't be a detailed step-by-step guide though since there's several of those. But there will be plenty of pics
3wbdriver
New member
3wbdriver
New member
I haven't researched it that hard myself, but the way I understand it you tell them what you value your collector car at and they work out a premium for you. I imagine it is a higher premium for full replacement, but it depends on how much you value that car. The selling point is they offer something better than the arbitrary minimum totaled value mainstream insurance companies offer for older cars. And they do offer Comp/Collision for repair work.
TEQ.FZJ
New member
That's a sore subject right now. I liked the idea of a cargo net to use as a barrier so I ordered this one in Large based on their sizing chart but the fit is all wrong: PET NET cargo barrier + free ship I'm going to try and return it.
I have looked at the one you linked up but folks say it ruins the headliner, so not sure if I want to go that route. I found this on on Amazon that looks decent and attaches only to the headrests, but looks like it's a bit flimsy. Amazon.com: Petego Walky Guard Car Barrier for Pet Automotive Safety: Pet Supplies
I feel like this big jerk would shove his face right through the bars!
TEQ.FZJ
New member
The other option is to have the guys at Safari Straps custom make a net like this in the size I want. They can make them to any size you want:
2" Utility Net 47x32
2" Utility Net 47x32
ryn996
New member
Awesome picture! What were your settings on this one?
FoxPhoto
New member
If you are a fan of this shot pick up a "nifty fifty". You can find a cheaper canon or nikon 50mm that can get the 1.8 depth of field that you favor. I would say this is probably done around 2.8 because the nose and head are in focus. You can get away with Aperture Priority for a static object in full light.
DannyLlama
Elite Member
I'm going to guess it's a 50 mm prime lens.
Stream2Stream
New member
If you are a fan of this shot pick up a "nifty fifty". You can find a cheaper canon or nikon 50mm that can get the 1.8 depth of field that you favor. I would say this is probably done around 2.8 because the nose and head are in focus. You can get away with Aperture Priority for a static object in full light.
This.
I would bet it's around f2.8 or maybe even f4 depending on the lens. Faster shutter speed given that dogs (at least…my dogs…rarely sit still for long), or if it was me, I'd just set it to Aperture priority. 9 times out of 10 I am more interested in controlling depth of field than I am blurring motion, so when I am trying to shoot "fast" I will use Av. When I'm setting up a specific motion shot, or am shooting an inanimate object, then I'll use Manual.
All of my Intro to Photo students have to shoot their first two assignments using a 50mm lens. I do this for two reasons:
1. 50mm is the closest focal length to the human eye (when using a full frame sensor…don't flame me for not wanting to go into the full differences between crop and full :sorry
, and I have found it is easier to get the students to start "seeing the photo" when they shoot with a 50 (or a "normal" prime lens) first, then progress to other lenses.2. You can pick up a pretty fast (larger aperture) 50 for CHEAP these days. So you can learn to control depth of field without dropping a grand on a 70-200 f2.8 (although…if you are getting into photography, there aren't many lenses that are more versatile than a good 70-200).
Just my two cents!
TEQ.FZJ
New member
If you are a fan of this shot pick up a "nifty fifty". You can find a cheaper canon or nikon 50mm that can get the 1.8 depth of field that you favor. I would say this is probably done around 2.8 because the nose and head are in focus. You can get away with Aperture Priority for a static object in full light.
This.
I would bet it's around f2.8 or maybe even f4 depending on the lens. Faster shutter speed given that dogs (at least…my dogs…rarely sit still for long), or if it was me, I'd just set it to Aperture priority. 9 times out of 10 I am more interested in controlling depth of field than I am blurring motion, so when I am trying to shoot "fast" I will use Av. When I'm setting up a specific motion shot, or am shooting an inanimate object, then I'll use Manual.
All of my Intro to Photo students have to shoot their first two assignments using a 50mm lens. I do this for two reasons:
1. 50mm is the closest focal length to the human eye (when using a full frame sensor…don't flame me for not wanting to go into the full differences between crop and full :sorry
2. You can pick up a pretty fast (larger aperture) 50 for CHEAP these days. So you can learn to control depth of field without dropping a grand on a 70-200 f2.8 (although…if you are getting into photography, there aren't many lenses that are more versatile than a good 70-200).
Just my two cents!
Yup you guys are good! This was shot with my Nikon D90 and my Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8 lens, at f/2.8. I do have a 50mm f/1.8 but I rarely use it. It's too soft at f/1.8 for my tastes and zoom lenses have me spoiled. I just can't get used to using a prime lens.
I do a lot of amatuer portrait work and prefer to shoot with small apertures most of the time. I like the impact more of dramatic lighting than that of bokeh. Like this for example, shot at f/14
Or use a 70-200mm to give the effect of bokeh without shooting at large apertures. This was at f/5.6
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