Built rig? How much does yours weigh?

KCcarguy

New member
I had the old girl weighed on Friday. With a full tank and most of my camping gear, here's what I got: 5,640lbs

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So....Let's see what others got!

I do worry a little about going above the GVWR (6,300lb) once I load the wife, kids, a RTT and a cooler full of food/ drinks. So.....what everyone's opinion on the importance of GVWR?
 

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I ran a 1400 mile round trip a couple years ago at around 5840. It wallowed like an old Cadillac but never felt dangerous. Of course I wouldn't recommend any serious off roading at that weight. Forest trails and maintained roads should be fine but try to stay away from the twisty flexy stuff. And remember, those safety ratings on most things are deliberately conservative to allow for the idiots who can't add and the manufacturers law departments.
 
I am honestly curious as well how sluggish these trucks feel after all the weight people are adding in.

-sliders (150 lbs)
-big tires (80 lbs)
-roof racks
-plate bumpers
-ladders

These trucks are already pretty slow, i can only imagine after adding 1000 lbs of gear and passengers.
 
I have sliders, full skids, full roof rack with fairing, front and rear plate bumpers with winch, and 2" lift with stock size A/T tires (I'm guessing ~450+ extra lbs unloaded). Power has not been an issue, but your mileage will definitely be affected somewhat. Of course I never expected mine to be a dragster in the first place. But if I need to get out in traffic, when I push the go pedal it still goes. Reading your sig line though, I guess I could understand why you think it's slow..... :wink2:
 
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Hahaha yep you can probably tell this is my first truck. My first Toyota actually as well. I bought it to haul the kid and track toys around mostly, but will use it for Tahoe snow runs.

I'm trying to figure out how to get this truck to pull more towing weight.
 
I should have weighed mine yesterday with a 4pc drum kit and bass amp/head on board. Could feel the difference.
 
Mine is NOT modded at all and I have been at the 6300 mark. I weigh 250 and am the smaller of three of my friends so that was easily 1K in people. I had over 500 lb in stone in the back (for deck table tops) so that put me right at 6200. Gas was full so that is another 150 and that put me over.

The thing I don't understand is people wanting to "level" their trucks. I had around 1K lb of bagged mulch (estimated, 35 bags at 30 lb apiece) in the back last weekend and she was riding low but level. If it was "leveled" it would have been way nose high. Do people not haul stuff in their 4Runner?
 
That's tough to say, I brought this up with [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] before. The weight rating is based on multiple factors, many of which we alter regularly. The addition of beefier LT tires, heavier duty suspension, and things like front and rear bumpers, skid plates, ect can potentially increase the load rating. But by how much I couldn't tell you.
 
That's tough to say, I brought this up with [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION] before. The weight rating is based on multiple factors, many of which we alter regularly. The addition of beefier LT tires, heavier duty suspension, and things like front and rear bumpers, skid plates, ect can potentially increase the load rating. But by how much I couldn't tell you.

You can't increase the load rating ever. Why? Because Toyota and Government regulations) set the load rating based on OEM specs. Everything from stopping distances to crash worthiness is based on the OEM specs. No matter what you do you cannot change it.

Now, you could increase the load carrying ability (suspension, brakes, gearing, frame, etc) but by how much? Who knows but the OEM rating will always be the load rating regardless of any modifications you make.
 
Just for reference....
STOCK 2014 SR5 4x4 w/3rd row. 1/2 tank of gas and 180 lbs of me in the vehicle.

5060 lbs
 

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You can't increase the load rating ever. Why? Because Toyota and Government regulations) set the load rating based on OEM specs. Everything from stopping distances to crash worthiness is based on the OEM specs. No matter what you do you cannot change it.

Now, you could increase the load carrying ability (suspension, brakes, gearing, frame, etc) but by how much? Who knows but the OEM rating will always be the load rating regardless of any modifications you make.

That's entirely true, I was alluding more to the actual application of the load capacity vs. the legal reason for one. So that is a good point to bring up.
 
My 170# butt and a half a tank plus all my mods listed below and I was at 5600
 
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