Cartzo's 87 4Runner Homemade Long-Travel Build

[Cartzo]

So I had to move twice now with the yota on three wheels. The first time was the worst. We I welded our jack to the crossmember and we slowly pulled the it on to the the trailer. We did the same thing getting it down, but we used ratchet straps to inch it down. It was a long process, but it worked. I ended up have to move it again, but I had the spindle ready so I ghetto rigged up some tube to get a tire on. Worked great :rofl:
[MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION] has been designing my upper arm. In the mean time I have been working on the driver side. I have both lower arms done now. Passenger side spindle is ready for the upper arm. This week I am taking my driver side spindle to weld the gusset and uniball mount on.

 

[Cartzo]

Here are a few more pics of the spindle. I used cardboard to make a crude model then cut plates and eventually shaped it the way I want. Once I have the upper arm mounted and ready I will fix it up more and make it sexy. Also, this is the sexiest drawer in my toolbox ever

 

[JBurt]

So um... how is the LT going? You haven't had to move in the last 2 weeks.

 

[Cartzo]

So um... how is the LT going? You haven't had to move in the last 2 weeks.

Making progress again. Going slow, but I hope to have it rolling on its own weight this weekend. All that's left is upper mounts for the passenger side, shock hoops all around, and plating/beefing up. I'll go take some pics and throw an update on. It's looking sexy

 

[Cartzo]

Work on the Yota feels like it's going so slow. Slowly but surely it is coming together though. As of now I am cycling 13" of travel. At full bump, my CV is limiting me which is good. I was shooting to have the CV be the limiting factor at bump and droop. At full droop though, I am maxing out the lower uniball. I understand now why other companies put a kink the the lower arm. If I had a bend in mine, the uniball would be in a lot better position and I wouldn't come near to maxing it out at full droop or bump. So in a nutshell, I'm using all available up travel, but have limited down travel because of the uniball position. To fix this, I am going to lower my lower arm mounts by drilling a new hole on the cross-member then plating both sides. That will give me another 1.5" or so of droop. If I feel like it in the future, I can cut my current arms then angle and fill them or I can just re-design and make new arms. I'm not going to worry about drilling holes or anything right now. I just want to drive the damn thing all ready.

I ordered pretty much the cheapest radiator I could find on Amazon. It should hold me over until I swap a 2UZ or something. I need to adjust the TPS and if all goes well it should run when I put the radiator in. I'm holding off on the radiator until I'm done grinding and welding on the frame. If I decide to go hard this week I should have it rolling this weekend.

 

[JBurt]

That looks really good. What axles are you using for this setup?

 

[Cartzo]

That looks really good. What axles are you using for this setup?

Just T100 axles for a 96. I wasn't sure if the year mattered at all

 

[dorton]

Very. Very. Cool.

Nice work!

 

[Cartzo]

Very. Very. Cool.

Nice work!

Thanks you! Lots and lots of time, but I think it will pay off

 

[taylorf16]

Where are you located? I keep seeing local Salt Lake City shop names and would like to check out your build.. I'm in taylorsville.

 

[Cartzo]

Where are you located? I keep seeing local Salt Lake City shop names and would like to check out your build.. I'm in taylorsville.

I'm in Logan

 

[B-yodaful]

Sub'd this is looks awesome

 

[snivilous]

[MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] stop being a little ***** and post pictures or I will!

 

[Cartzo]

The beast is sitting on all 4 wheels now and the engine is about ready to turn over. I put the radiator in and adjusted my throttle stop screw. Tomorrow I'm going to adjust the TPS then hopefully it will start up and I can time it and let it idle for a good while.

The suspension is really close to being drive-able. I was able to talk my dad into lending me his 220 Miller so welding has gone a lot more smoothly without that POS 110 Lincoln. The heim steering is all that's left. I just need to trim a couple things for clearance. The brakelines are all hooked up. I just need to put fluid in and bleed them. If all goes smooth I'll take it for a test drive tomorrow!

 

[JBurt]

That's awesome. How much extra track width so you have?

 

[KidVermicious]

Hey look, long travel arms!

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

those last two pictures are like color at home porno for fabricators. great. truck. man.

 

[KidVermicious]

I hope the springs settle. Them are some steep CV angles.

 

[snivilous]

I hope the springs settle. Them are some steep CV angles.

The springs will probably still need some tuning, worse case scenario right now we thread the adjuster up and add a triple rate setup. I don't think anything should settle very much though, the dual rate sliders are plastic and mine contorted a bit from the springs contacting at different spots, but everything else is machined aluminum and shouldn't "settle" like suspensions with bushings or rubber coil seats and the spring rate and lengths shouldn't change assuming they are good quality.

We might have to stretch the boots out and use hose clamps since the boots scrunch up a little, but remember the CV can't even bind at full droop since the LCA uniball maxes first right now. Obviously there is still a lot of tuning to do but I think it looks good and way better than mine since my tender coil was so short it got fully compressed the first time I put weight on the truck.

 

[JBurt]

So nice. What are you going to do for fenders? That's quite a bit of uptravel.