Cartzo's 87 4Runner Homemade Long-Travel Build

So nice. What are you going to do for fenders? That's quite a bit of uptravel.

Thanks man. Im gonna have like 4.5" sharp bulge glass. After seeing how far it bumps Im thinking about running 35s instead of 33s for more ground clearance at full bump. I am confident the 31s will stuff perfectly in the fenders, but when I get new tires I'll have to set the bumpstops accordingly. Also, its about 3.25" wide each side because I'm using T100 axles
 
Possibly have a bent valve. I don't know what to do. I don't have the time, patience, energy, or money to keep doing this bullshit to the runner. It's $200 to order all the parts for a head rebuild from Engnbldr or $250 to take it to a machine shop to have them do it... $350 for a brand new assembled head. It all seems like a waste to me. I've never thought of selling the runner, but Jesus H. She's testing me pretty good.
 
Do not give up! Your build is bada$$ if you give up.... :smashputer:


a 3.4 does not seem like a waste... I heard they make a SC for it :bat:
 
Maybe someone can give us some advice.

So obviously the engine was being a massive *****. Not sure how much this thread has been updated, so I'll fill in: engine was running like ass. I thought it wasn't tuned right. Got my compression tester and checked the spark plugs and compression. No idea what it should of been, but they were all within 5psi of each other so that was enough info to know they were sealing good. Cylinder 4 (assuming that's the rear cylinder) had a lot of black shit on it so I cleaned it up. We started from scratch and tuned it, TPS, timing, and whatever else. She was then running really well. As I recall, at this point we checked the oil and found that it was beautifully creamy. Blown head (presumably). Tear it back down. The head had blown off of cylinder 4 (the one with the dirty ass plug).

It appeared the head gasket sealant we had used hadn't adhered properly--presumably because the engine was put back together like 2 months ago so it didn't get to bake on. Some of you may say don't use additional sealant on the head gasket, the stuff we used is meant for that though and it's what I run on my jet ski engine--which I know is kinda far off, a little 2-stroke but I've learned a lot about engine tuning and diagnostic from that little thing and the sealant certainly helps me keep a good sealing head on my jet ski running over a 15:1 compression and race gas. That point aside, we cleaned the head and block yesterday. Used a wire brush and a ton of acetone to clean everything up. Also used a straight edge on the head and a feeler gauge to check if the head was within spec...as far as we could tell it was. Kinda checked the block for its level of flatness but not really. Under the assumption that the head gasket hadn't sealed right because of the sealant not baking on but just out gassing over time and not forming a good seal, we bolted it back up with a new gasket. I torqued the head bolts to spec, in order, doing a 1/4 turn per bolt until they were all tight--they all clicked on the torque wrench during the same turns, so they were all close torque values as I tightened each one.

Fire it up today. No bueno. Oil is milkshakey again and now there is (presumably) coolant coming out of the exhaust. My diagnosis is a blown head gasket again--water is getting sucked into the cylinder during the down stroke and blown out the exhaust. We checked all the spark plugs, none of them had water on them or looked any different compared to the others which is the weird thing. I would at least expect water on a spark plug if it's coming out the exhaust.

We haven't done anything else to it. So to recap: blew head gasket, installed new one, now have oil/coolant mixed in oil pan and coolant/water coming out the exhaust but all the spark plugs look fairly normal. Anyone have any ideas? Otherwise my vote for [MENTION=89531]Cartzo[/MENTION] is to tear the engine down again, and get the block and head surfaced and put it back together... Hopefully someone can see some oversight of mine and has an easier or more solid solution.


Second thing, how do you pull the ball joint of the idler arm into the center link? Banged on it, torqued the **** out of the nut to try and pull them together, even used a C-clamp and a deep socket over the threads of the ball joint and tried to pull them together and no luck. There's hardly any more distance the ball joints needs to be pressed into the center link, but it'd be nice if it was 100% seated. We are 99% sure it's the right idler arm, since it looks identical to the original.

Thanks!
 
was the head ever resurfaced? I had a buddy blow a head gasket on a 1.9L ford motor twice and then he had the head surfaced and it's been good for 10k miles.

You could also do a leak down test to see where the air is leaking from. Probably still have to tear it all down again, but you might find something.
 
Was there a timing chain job recently? I'm on my phone and can't scroll back, but I think there was. Did anybody check the timing cover for cracks or holes? Is the cover well seated and all the bolts torqued properly? A hole in the timing cover water jacket or failure to seal the gasket well will mix oil and coolant and look like a bad head gasket.

Run another compression test before you tear it down again. If the compression numbers are good the head gasket should be fine.

Sniv, don't let that dummy sell this truck now.
 
[MENTION=84643]JBurt[/MENTION], judging by looking at the head it has been resurfaced a lot. I'm not sure how much more it can go down. [MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION] thinks I should get it resurfaced then get a thicker head gasket for it. This is probably my best bet and if it doesn't work I'll be buying a little 70s Corolla to get me around until I find a new head or engine to drop in.
[MENTION=49649]KidVermicious[/MENTION], I did do a timing job but the original timing cover was in poor condition so I replaced it with a brand new one. In the Haynes manual, it says to put sealant on the joint from block to timing cover when putting the head gasket on. I didn't bother with this because sealant is what most likely blew the last one and I didn't like the thought of RTV in between the head and block. Was that a mistake? I am for some reason leaking coolant from the lowest/closest to front bolt from intake to head
 
I did do a timing job but the original timing cover was in poor condition so I replaced it with a brand new one. In the Haynes manual, it says to put sealant on the joint from block to timing cover when putting the head gasket on. I didn't bother with this because sealant is what most likely blew the last one and I didn't like the thought of RTV in between the head and block. Was that a mistake? I am for some reason leaking coolant from the lowest/closest to front bolt from intake to head

If you didn't seal between the front of the head gasket and the timing cover, you'd risk weeping oil between them but I can't think how that would cause oil and coolant to mix.

I'm having trouble parsing that last sentence, where are you leaking coolant now?
 
If you didn't seal between the front of the head gasket and the timing cover, you'd risk weeping oil between them but I can't think how that would cause oil and coolant to mix.

I'm having trouble parsing that last sentence, where are you leaking coolant now?

I did my best to try and explain :) if you are facing the engine from the front looking where the intake bolts to the head, it is leaking at the bottom bolt that is closest to you.
 
I did my best to try and explain :) if you are facing the engine from the front looking where the intake bolts to the head, it is leaking at the bottom bolt that is closest to you.

On the plenum, gotcha. I think that leak is travelling - there's coolant lines into and out of the IAC, and there's coolant passages in the middle of the plenum, and obviously there's coolant in the radiator neck, but I can't think of any passages in the plenum or head up front on the bottom there.

I could be wrong, it's been a minute since I've been in a 22RE. Still think you need another compression test, or a leakdown if you're set up for that.
 
Well it's about time for an update...

First off, I bought me a sweet 1981 Celica (RA40) with the 22r for $750. I couldn't pass it up and its an awesome little get around car.

I was at my wits end with the 22re. After [MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION] and I determined the HG blew again I tore it down for the 5th time or so. This time I took the head to a machine shop to have them look at it. They quoted me $75 for a resurface and an extra $75 to fix all of the stripped bolt holes as well as replace the valve stem seals. That doesn't sound like a bad deal to me but I didn't want to put that much money into it. I called a buddy of mine that has a machine shop and he milled it for me. He took .002" off and you could clearly see where it was low. He took another .002" and it looked amazing :D [MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION] and I played hooky from school/work last Thursday and went hard on the 22re. We have torn that top end down so much its all second nature now. We made sure we did everything perfect this time. I cranked it for a good while and it didn't start, but I didn't hear a gasket blow. Toby twisted the distributer, I tried it again, and it fired right up. I pulled it about halfway out of the garage and realized I didn't have brakes. I let her run while we bled the brakes then I drove her to [MENTION=111616]Lanqe[/MENTION]'s house about half a mile away to get a picture with his 88. All it needs now is a good tune and she should be purring once again :)

So the good news is she's running and driving pretty well for not being tuned AT ALL. I need to adjust camber and toe mostly on the passenger side. The driver side is surprisingly close though I may adjust the toe a hair. I think the best thing I could do right now is find out the exact spring rate I need for the front to settle it down a bit.

The guy that milled my head for me has an 85 runner that is prime other than the body (We rolled it up Millville a couple years ago) and reverse in the tranny just went out. It has around 160k on it or something and he is selling it to me for $1000. I'm most likely going to either part it out or swap a tranny and sell it as a whole. Either way I'm probably going to be the owner of 3 classic Toyota's, yay for me!
 

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Did some minor adjusting today then tried to flex in our rock garden :)
 

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A few pics from today
 

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More pics since I'm bored in class :D I'm really impressed with the suspension and how nicely it's behaving despite having less than an hour of driving time. It's funny since the rear used to feel super smooth since the stock IFS was so stiff, now the rear feels horrible since the front end is so smooth. Very impressed considering this is the second LT we have built, and is considerably different than the double A-arm suspension we first did for my 3rd gen. Still lots of fine tuning to do, but I think Cartzo might have the most unique IFS of any 1st gen excluding the fact it's cusom. Hopefully the highest performance IFS too after a few tweaks in the near future :)

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It looks so much better without that POS bumper. I think I'm gonna throw a quick bumper together at work because that ugly thing is ruining my front end sexiness
 

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