LOL worst case I'll bring both (the truck and the meter) to the CB tech session at the Summit and learn it the right way there! :bravo:
Okki
CB parts list questions
- Thread starter Okki
- Start date
LOL worst case I'll bring both (the truck and the meter) to the CB tech session at the Summit and learn it the right way there! :bravo:
Okki
limamike
New member
Good to know. I bought the Firestik, too. I've never had this particular one before, so I'm hopeful that it's as easy to tune as it claims to be!
Took a look at the control box today to start the "Antman CB over speakers" mod. Has anyone had any issues with bending out and back in the metal tabs to open up the housing? I guess 4 screws were to much to ask for!?!?
I also dry fitted the K400 3/8 mount and the 6.5 feet of coax it comes with is enough to run to the center of the hatch, through the cable channel into the cab and back to the passenger side c-pillar.
I've got a call in to DX Engineering for my extension cable. I measured 16ft to follow the door sills, behind the glove-box and to the center console to mount the control box. Probably will end up with a little slack, but rather that than not enough wire.
Hopefully I can get the extension cable in so I can do the install next Sunday as that looks to be a free weekend day at this point :frog:
Okki
I also dry fitted the K400 3/8 mount and the 6.5 feet of coax it comes with is enough to run to the center of the hatch, through the cable channel into the cab and back to the passenger side c-pillar.
I've got a call in to DX Engineering for my extension cable. I measured 16ft to follow the door sills, behind the glove-box and to the center console to mount the control box. Probably will end up with a little slack, but rather that than not enough wire.
Hopefully I can get the extension cable in so I can do the install next Sunday as that looks to be a free weekend day at this point :frog:
Okki
limamike
New member
Tap into the fuse box. On the dash fuse box there is a free space about six down on the right. Buy a mini tap-a-fuse and just plug right in. But, note that the 4Runner has very shallow fuses (as I found out this evening). So, I've got mine jumped with two male spade connectors with a short jumper wire using only the in-line (+) fuse. I just jumped online to see if I could find deeper fuse to properly bridge the power.
Duh.. It's been a long day... I tapped into an existing fuse location there in order to switch the power on to my aux fusebox for the roof lights etc.
I'll stop by O'Reilly auto parts on my way home this week and grab another tap-a-fuse.
THANKS LIMAMIKE! :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:
Okki
limamike
New member
K cool! Then you're good to go!
For anyone else, you need one of these: Buy Bussmann ATM Fuse Tap - 10 Amps BP/HHH at Advance Auto Parts
Plus buy some aftermarket fuses, the "extra" fuses in the engine bay will NOT work with these fuse taps because the ones in the 5th Gen 4Runner are too "shallow". So, just buy one of these: Amazon.com: Grip 150 pc Auto Fuse Set: Home Improvement
I had some tap-a-fuse's leftover from my Tacoma modding, and I was EXTREMELY frustrated tonight when I found that the Tacoma and 4Runner fuses are two different sizes AND the 4Runner mini fuses do not fit in the tap-a-fuse. :roadkill:
phillyd2
Senior Member
I did use a switched power source since its the one item I thought would be easy to leave on by accident.
The other thing is to be careful where you ground the CB. Since I'm getting older and dumber by the day I can't now remember where exactly I grounded (and since I'm also lazy I'm not going to rip it apart to look) but I do remember first grounding to the bolt on the Yaw Rate Sensor (just in front of the transfer case shifter) but that caused tons of interference. Wherever that magical place is where I finally did ground the only interference I get is when I move the power seats - which is fine by me. You may have to experiment to find the best location.
The other thing is to be careful where you ground the CB. Since I'm getting older and dumber by the day I can't now remember where exactly I grounded (and since I'm also lazy I'm not going to rip it apart to look) but I do remember first grounding to the bolt on the Yaw Rate Sensor (just in front of the transfer case shifter) but that caused tons of interference. Wherever that magical place is where I finally did ground the only interference I get is when I move the power seats - which is fine by me. You may have to experiment to find the best location.
yeah.. I saw your interaction with Antman on that topic. but thanks for the reminder. First I was thinking switched power as well, but then I thought it may be useful to have it work with the engine off so you can reach out to the trail leader etc when your engine is not running... either by choice but more importantly when not by choice...
Okki
You could always use ACC or the hornIf neither option is available it won't matter how you have it wired. Either way, good luck and let us know if you have any other questions.
Hahahahah great point...
limamike
New member
That's why I just plug in the tap-a-fuse in a location where it'll shut off after I shut off the truck!
Also, came across these when I was getting parts the other day (had never seen them before) and it was super useful:
I grounded my radio at the brake pedal bracket/linkage point.
I ordered the last major part ... 16ft of RG316 and 4 BNC connectors (I only need 2, but this way I can mess up twice! LOL).
I updated the parts list and cost in the first post. Only thing missing now is a fuse and some wire to power and ground it, but I should have plenty of that in the parts bin.
If the cable comes in before the weekend it should be installation day this Sunday. :reddance:
Okki
I updated the parts list and cost in the first post. Only thing missing now is a fuse and some wire to power and ground it, but I should have plenty of that in the parts bin.
If the cable comes in before the weekend it should be installation day this Sunday. :reddance:
Okki
Antman
Elite Member
Okki- I was thinking...
If you did my 12V MOD (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92013-antmans-thread-4.html#post813424) you could source your 12V+ for the CB from the center output of the switch. This would give your CB ignition only power when the switch is to one side, and always-on when the switch is on the other side.
Best of both worlds?
Just a thought, and it's relatively easy...
If you did my 12V MOD (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92013-antmans-thread-4.html#post813424) you could source your 12V+ for the CB from the center output of the switch. This would give your CB ignition only power when the switch is to one side, and always-on when the switch is on the other side.
Best of both worlds?
Just a thought, and it's relatively easy...
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That's definitely an idea, but I think I settled on running to my aux fusebox. At least that is something I know I can do within the time I have to do the install.... making it switch driven may be a CB mod 2.0 :fishing:
I appreciate the idea though!
Okki
I guess I will do a lot of the prep work and get the control box mounted etc, but the installation won't be complete 
RiDE
New member
sorry for the ignorance in advance. I haven't done much of search on anything CB. I'm being lazy right now.
I know I need to get a CB setup and plan on copying this exact setup. Will the 3ft FIRESTIK be good enough? I want to install the antenna on the corner of my SW bumper. I feel like the 4ft. would be too tall for that location. How will that affect reception?
I know I need to get a CB setup and plan on copying this exact setup. Will the 3ft FIRESTIK be good enough? I want to install the antenna on the corner of my SW bumper. I feel like the 4ft. would be too tall for that location. How will that affect reception?
Antman
Elite Member
This is from CB World: CB Radios & Antennas – Cobra CB Radio, Ham Radio Antennas, Police Scanners
"The best antenna you can use is a 102 inch whip such as the Hustler IC56. Having an antenna standing over 8 feet off of your vehicle is not practical for most vehicles, however. A shorter, more practical antenna will still work. If at all possible, keep it over 3 feet.
Antenna placement.
Where you mount your antenna is very important. You want to mount your antenna as high on the vehicle as possible. The center of the roof is the ideal place. If you must mount it lower, try to keep two-thirds of the antenna above the roof line. Also keep in mind that your signal will be weaker to the side you mount the antenna on. For instance, if you mount it on the driver-side fender, you will not transmit as far to the front left of your vehicle.
Range
It is nearly impossible to know what range you will get with your antenna. With a good antenna, mounted right, you will most likely get 3 to 5 miles range."
"The best antenna you can use is a 102 inch whip such as the Hustler IC56. Having an antenna standing over 8 feet off of your vehicle is not practical for most vehicles, however. A shorter, more practical antenna will still work. If at all possible, keep it over 3 feet.
Antenna placement.
Where you mount your antenna is very important. You want to mount your antenna as high on the vehicle as possible. The center of the roof is the ideal place. If you must mount it lower, try to keep two-thirds of the antenna above the roof line. Also keep in mind that your signal will be weaker to the side you mount the antenna on. For instance, if you mount it on the driver-side fender, you will not transmit as far to the front left of your vehicle.
Range
It is nearly impossible to know what range you will get with your antenna. With a good antenna, mounted right, you will most likely get 3 to 5 miles range."
