Changing Differential & Transfer Case Fluids - Pics Included

[ehall003]

Swapping front diff hex plugs for type used in rear

I've read up and down all the differential fluid change threads I could find before I finally took the plunge to performing the change on my 4wd 09 t4r. I got the rear diff and transfer case drained and refilled easily, and then came the front. I stopped trying before I did too much damage, but the 10mm hex bit attachment thing I have for my ratchet bar was clearly beginning to round the bolt for the drain plug. As it is a Sunday and the dealership is closed, I simply tightened the fill plug back on and left it be. I think it's going to take destroying that drain plug to actually get the thing off, and I intend to wait until I have a replacement on hand.

Frankly, these fluid changes are the first maintenance I've done myself (bought her used back in January and have had shops change the oil up until now). The ease I had changing the rear diff and transfer case fluids got me wondering if I couldn't just replace the hex bolt plug with a 24mm (or whatever size) plug like is used for the rear. Anyone know why I shouldn't do this?

 

[bdubbin]

What can people recommend as a good pump to move the gear oil from the original container (lower position) into the front differential (higher position)?

Please keep in mind I live in Canada so we don't have Harbor Freight.

Thanks.

 

[Illusive89]

If one were to have approximately 3" of lift in the rear of a 2014 trail, without a diff drop, would one need to jack up the rear axle 3" to fill the rear diff to spec? Or is filling it on the ground until it drips out of the fill plug still sufficient?

 

[Illusive89]

What can people recommend as a good pump to move the gear oil from the original container (lower position) into the front differential (higher position)?

Please keep in mind I live in Canada so we don't have Harbor Freight.

Thanks.

Performance Tool W1139 Quart/Gallon Fluid Pump (New Design) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00329VL3G/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_7TBPzbE4H8AGD

 

[bdubbin]

Performance Tool W1139 Quart/Gallon Fluid Pump (New Design) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00329VL3G/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_7TBPzbE4H8AGD

Thanks... sorry if you didn't get a referral... I ordered from the Canadian Amazon site.

 

[bdubbin]

Performance Tool W1139 Quart/Gallon Fluid Pump (New Design) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00329VL3G/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_7TBPzbE4H8AGD

The new design leaked out of the nozzle head... made a mess leaking down the bottle... oh well... diff. fluid now full.

 

[Supersonic]

Just wanted to update the specs, the fill quantity for the front differential is 1.6 quarts. The initial post says quarts but likely reflects the 1.5 liter measurement according to owner's manual. This is from my owner's manual, I have the 2005 v6 4x4;

’05 4Runner_U
(L/O 0504)

TRANSFER
Oil capacity, L (qt., Imp. qt.):
1.4 (1.5, 1.2)
Oil type:
Hypoid gear oil API GL−5
Recommended oil viscosity:
SAE 75W−90

DIFFERENTIAL (1GR−FE engine)
Oil capacity, L (qt., Imp. qt.):

Two−wheel drive models
3.05 (3.2, 2.7)

Four−wheel drive models
Front
1.5 (1.6, 1.3)
Rear
3.05 (3.2, 2.7)
Oil type:
Hypoid gear oil API GL−5

Recommended oil viscosity:
Front
SAE 75W−90
Rear
Above −18C (0F)
SAE 90
Below −18C (0F)
SAE 80W or 80W−90

 

[DayDaysTech]

i have a 2004 v6 with 270k miles never been changed other then motor oil, whats the best oil to get for rear diff and transmission?

 

[Supersonic]

Not sure about he best but after doing some research I went with Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF. Seems the multi-viscosity is the issue and Valvoline has that covered "Engineered with a unique blend of viscosity modifiers and base oils to provide better oil flow at low temperatures and greater film protection at higher temperatures". If you want to look at their web page; https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/automatic-transmission-products/maxlife-multi-vehicle-atf

This thread may help, I posted some on the last page, I suggest reading through some other's strategies and looking at a few instructional videos so you'll have some good ways to proceed.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maint...ta-4runner-sealed-transmission-diy-flush.html

I also went with Valvoline High Performance 80W-90 Gear Oil for the rear and Walmart's Super Tech 75W-90 Syn-Blend Gear Oil for the transfer case and front differential. Fits the specs and cost was reasonable. Rear diff and Transfer case are easy compared to that 10mm hex drain plug on the front differential. 25 inch breaker bar from Harbor Freight did it for me, and then when I torque it I only went to 44 ft lbs instead of the 48 spec.

You can also find relevant information at Tacoma 2nd Generation (2005-2015) - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
THE OFFICIAL HOW TO: ATF Drain and Fill - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
Best ATF? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

 

[WOLVERINE]

i have a 2004 v6 with 270k miles never been changed other then motor oil, whats the best oil to get for rear diff and transmission?

For axles/diffs. RedLine is the best IMO, Amsoil and Schaeffer's are also excellent choices.

I would use OEM for transmission fluid drain and fill.

 

[DayDaysTech]

For axles/diffs. RedLine is the best IMO, Amsoil and Schaeffer's are also excellent choices.

I would use OEM for transmission fluid drain and fill.

iv used mobile one on my Subaru wrx and in winter on cold starts it would be hard to put my car in first gear unless it warmed up full and still at times gave me problems, so i ended up doing redline and worked so smooth

what redline should i use? is there a link?

 

[WOLVERINE]

Keeping in mind that mine is a 2004 Sport V8 4wd that I use as a daily driver, for the front and rear axles I use 75w90, Redline has both options, for limited slip with friction modifiers and one without additional friction modifiers - I believe you want to use the standard - Amazon sells by the quart and gallon, Redline 75W-90NS is the standard without additional friction modifiers. It is a bit pricey, but it is quality lube.

If you are towing frequently, may want to stick with the 80w-90 (Hypoid gear oil API GL-5) or whatever is recommended in the manual for hotter temp. zones, SAE 90 I believe. *See Manual*

 

[ivopivo]

I've read up and down all the differential fluid change threads I could find before I finally took the plunge to performing the change on my 4wd 09 t4r. I got the rear diff and transfer case drained and refilled easily, and then came the front. I stopped trying before I did too much damage, but the 10mm hex bit attachment thing I have for my ratchet bar was clearly beginning to round the bolt for the drain plug. As it is a Sunday and the dealership is closed, I simply tightened the fill plug back on and left it be. I think it's going to take destroying that drain plug to actually get the thing off, and I intend to wait until I have a replacement on hand.

Frankly, these fluid changes are the first maintenance I've done myself (bought her used back in January and have had shops change the oil up until now). The ease I had changing the rear diff and transfer case fluids got me wondering if I couldn't just replace the hex bolt plug with a 24mm (or whatever size) plug like is used for the rear. Anyone know why I shouldn't do this?

Interested in this as well. I actually rounded off my fill plug and have no clue how I'm going to get it out. The front subframe blocks me from doing some easy drilling etc so there's only about 4 inches of space. I'm going to try some stuff tomorrow but if anyone has ideas please let me know.

I would change it to the rear normal bolt head plugs in a heartbeat if the threads were the same size.

Also, should my transfer case drain plug have a magnet just like the rear diff? On my 97 4runner both the drain and fill plugs for the transf case were the same (hollow with no magnet).

 

[WOLVERINE]

Check my post on page 15 of this thread, #214 I believe, you can use a hammer and chisel/drilling bit chisel as pictured to get it off....plenty of penetrating fluid helps.. make sure it is penetrating lube.

 

[ivopivo]

Check my post on page 15 of this thread, #214 I believe, you can use a hammer and chisel/drilling bit chisel as pictured to get it off....plenty of penetrating fluid helps.. make sure it is penetrating lube.

Thanks, I'll have to try that out first thing tomorrow. Definitely need to pick up a new bolt from the dealer first.

 

[DayDaysTech]

Keeping in mind that mine is a 2004 Sport V8 4wd that I use as a daily driver, for the front and rear axles I use 75w90, Redline has both options, for limited slip with friction modifiers and one without additional friction modifiers - I believe you want to use the standard - Amazon sells by the quart and gallon, Redline 75W-90NS is the standard without additional friction modifiers. It is a bit pricey, but it is quality lube.

If you are towing frequently, may want to stick with the 80w-90 (Hypoid gear oil API GL-5) or whatever is recommended in the manual for hotter temp. zones, SAE 90 I believe. *See Manual*

price is no matter, this car is my moms and is a daily and she also doesnt tow

 

[ivopivo]

Check my post on page 15 of this thread, #214 I believe, you can use a hammer and chisel/drilling bit chisel as pictured to get it off....plenty of penetrating fluid helps.. make sure it is penetrating lube.

Took some work and a few rounds of banging on it after spraying PB blaster, but it’s out and new fill plug, drain plug and oil is in. thanks for the help.

 

[WOLVERINE]

Glad you made it work, anytime.

 

[brisamh]

All gens?

Looks like your on a 4th gen? Will the instructions be identical for a 3rd?

 

[Folsom4Rnr]

Just did the drain and fill (first time doing it myself). Great write up OP - made it super easy to do.
:thanks: