Cheap Paint Prep

[UTEP]

Howdy,

Well after getting my 2000 Ltd in tip-top mechanical shape…for the most part…I thought I would address the severely oxidized hood. I cleaned very well and tried a little rubbing compound and quickly discovered the paint is worn through in spots. No biggie I wanted it low gloss to flat black anyway.

This morning I approached with some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper and think the surface is smooth enough for some paint. Problem is I keep gently cleaning with Fantastik and still get some color on the paper towels. I don't want to go too aggressive with say paint thinner but am unsure what kind of final cleaning I should use. Just a degreaser? Denatured alcohol?

I have some Krylon Camoflauge Ultra Flat Black that a friend said he used on an outdoor BBQ that looks like new 5 years later. So I guess any worries about heat and grease stains are minimal.

I'm not too worried about being perfect as anything will be an improvement. I read about vinyl treatments and may try that in the spring.

Thx

UTEP

 

[Coastal616]

I only use a wax and grease remover before painting. Any parts store with an autobody section will have it.

Welcome to Pro Form Products

 

[BrianSD_42]

Are you going to rattle can just the hood or the whole truck?

Post pictures please.

If you rattle-can it then I don't think it will turn out well but I like to be proven wrong.

 

[txbonds]

I taped and rolled my hood with rustoleum flat black and a foam roller and it came out with a lot of texture. At first I wasn't pleased with it but as time goes by it has grown on me because the texture helps to break up the sheen and reflectivness of the paint. I only scuffed with a scotchbrite pad and wiped clean but this was one top of new paint.

 

[cj80cruiser]

I only use a wax and grease remover before painting. Any parts store with an autobody section will have it.

Welcome to Pro Form Products

Only as in that's all you do? Or are you saying you sand like the OP and then clean with the wax and grease remover?

I need to paint my truck too and looking for any short cuts that may be acceptable. It doesn't have to be perfect for me to be happy with it but I want it to last atleast 5 years before doing it again.

 

[UTEP]

Are you going to rattle can just the hood or the whole truck?

Post pictures please.

If you rattle-can it then I don't think it will turn out well but I like to be proven wrong.

Attached are photos from today. Besides the swirl marks from the sanding this morning it looks MUCH better than before. Still bad enough that even the worst "rattle-can" job will be an improvement.

As I said a friend did a BBQ with the same paint and it looks pretty good a few years later; heat and grease.... This is just a stop gap job. I can't find anyone in El Paso who will either paint flat black or even color change…plus they want $200 for what I don't want..

Last time I did any body work was on a '68 Dodge Van that had the roof gutter rusting through. I found a can of quality auto paint for cheap as it was a mistake mix and brushed it on! It actually looked pretty good till you got with a foot or two of it. It was a work truck.

BTW I saw some discussions about vinyl but never found a definitive link to someone who made a 3rd gen ready sticker. Any clues?

W

 

[Millerad1651]

I haven't found any company that has a vinyl piece for the whole hood, but there is a place that sells a section...a couple people have used it. You can also try using plasti dip. I did a large section of mine a year ago and its still holding up great. Through the heat of the summer and rain and the little bit of snow we had. I even pressure washed it to get the mud off and it didn't budge. Pics are in my build thread.

As for cleaning, when everything is as smooth as you want it, take a micro fiber towel and denatured alcohol and give it a wipe down. Do it again right before you paint to get the stuff you can't see. After a couple coats see how it looks. You may want to do a fine wet sand, wipe with alcohol, and a couple more coats.

 

[UTEP]

I haven't found any company that has a vinyl piece for the whole hood, but there is a place that sells a section...a couple people have used it. You can also try using plasti dip. I did a large section of mine a year ago and its still holding up great. Through the heat of the summer and rain and the little bit of snow we had. I even pressure washed it to get the mud off and it didn't budge. Pics are in my build thread.

As for cleaning, when everything is as smooth as you want it, take a micro fiber towel and denatured alcohol and give it a wipe down. Do it again right before you paint to get the stuff you can't see. After a couple coats see how it looks. You may want to do a fine wet sand, wipe with alcohol, and a couple more coats.

Cool!
I considered bed liner or the like but wanted more of a flat paint to reduce glare. Didn't think of plastic dip…isn't it rather glossy?

The patch looks cool but my hood obviously has edge-to-edge issues.

I hope to paint today but at the latest tomorrow morning.

I'll post results…


W

 

[hungryeddy]

bro come on! you live in el paso. cross over to juarez and get it painted for cheap!

 

[Millerad1651]

Cool!
I considered bed liner or the like but wanted more of a flat paint to reduce glare. Didn't think of plastic dip…isn't it rather glossy?

The patch looks cool but my hood obviously has edge-to-edge issues.

I hope to paint today but at the latest tomorrow morning.

I'll post results…


W

The plasti-dip I used is flat. Its actually helped out a lot with the glare since my hood was so damn glossy.

This was from the other day...


And this was the day I did it last winter...


I don't think it would be too hard to do your whole hood...it actually might be easier since you don't have to tape as much as I did. The part I did took about a can and a half, a whole hood would probably take 4 or so.

 

[UTEP]

The plasti-dip I used is flat. Its actually helped out a lot with the glare since my hood was so damn glossy.


I don't think it would be too hard to do your whole hood...it actually might be easier since you don't have to tape as much as I did. The part I did took about a can and a half, a whole hood would probably take 4 or so.

Hmmm…Interesting.

I imagine it is more forgiving than paint..more self leveling.

What brand did you use? It looks pretty good on photos…just as good live?

I'll have to see about this option…


Thanks,

W

 

[UTEP]

bro come on! you live in el paso. cross over to juarez and get it painted for cheap!

Yea right huh!

I used to live in San Diego and going to TJ a viable option way back when. Cost of a passport and Mex insurance would rob any savings I'm sure…if I even got my t4r back!

W

 

[Millerad1651]

Ya, it was pretty easy to spray. Doing a whole hood would be even easier. Just tape off the fenders and cowl/windshield. I'd do a couple lighter coats, then 3 or 4 heavy ones....like you said, its pretty forgiving. It dries pretty fast, so you should be able to see the reults soon...wait until you're happy to untape everything.

 

[cj80cruiser]

Hmmm…Interesting.

I imagine it is more forgiving than paint..more self leveling.

What brand did you use? It looks pretty good on photos…just as good live?

I'll have to see about this option…


Thanks,

W

It should work fine. I've been thinking about using plasti-dip too since I have a sport hood and will need something for a lightbar I will eventually install on my roof. Those vinyl stickers run about $60 or so and plasti dip is much cheaper per can. The best part is If you don't like it just peel it off.

 

[cj80cruiser]

Ya, it was pretty easy to spray. Doing a whole hood would be even easier. Just tape off the fenders and cowl/windshield. I'd do a couple lighter coats, then 3 or 4 heavy ones....like you said, its pretty forgiving. It dries pretty fast, so you should be able to see the reults soon...wait until you're happy to untape everything.

Would it be better to snatch the tape off before it dries to keep from having to trace it with a razor?

I plan on doing this soon too.

 

[Millerad1651]

That depends on what you tape. I had to remove the tape immediately to keep the sharp lines. But if doing the whole hood, the tape can go under the back of the hood, and on the fenders, so you won't have any hard lines...make sense? The gap between the hood and fenders keeps the plastidip from sticking to the tape...

Or just take the whole damn hood off!

 

[UTEP]

This is super-cool!

I did more research and one of the few products at HD and Amazon to get almost universal high praise. ~$5 a can at Home Depot-cover 5 sq. ft.. I'll get some tonight and spray tomorrow.

Thanks again!

Warren

 

[brosama]

I rattle canned my whole truck last year. I prepped with 400 grit and then cleaned up with tack cloth and acetone. Rustoleum primer followed by rustoleum paint. Rusto is the only way to go since it's real paint, not watered/thinned down like everything else.

 

[jmildoc]

get 3 cans of plastidip and go to town! if you dont like it then peel it off when you have enough to get the hood painted.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I rattle canned my whole truck last year. I prepped with 400 grit and then cleaned up with tack cloth and acetone. Rustoleum primer followed by rustoleum paint. Rusto is the only way to go since it's real paint, not watered/thinned down like everything else.

Dude,

Rustoleum has its place but it is not an Automotive grade paint. There are plenty of auto parts stores (NAPA for example) that sell auto-grade rattle can paint.

OP, do yourself a favor and get a decent rattle can to do this. All paint is not created equal. The good paint costs $8-10 a can, possibly more for primer. I think you will need two cans of primer and 2 cans of paint to do that hood. You should also finish with a gloss coat from the can, this will help prevent fade.