Chipped key immobilizer workaround = cheap keys?

[PabloPaulo]

OK, I live in a very rural area where I'm way more concerned about losing my key, or locking it in the 4Runner 10 miles out in the woods at 2 a.m., than I am about some SOB with a fake key getting in and driving off with it. I'd unplug the immobilizer if that was possible, I just don't want it on my vehicle much as I love the 4Runner. I've got a "master" key (with the little dimple on it), a valet key and 2 remotes, that's all that came with it when purchased. I bought 2 chipped blanks from ebay (they have the Toyota logo but might be knock-offs, I do not know) since they were only $12. as I learned a locksmith (50 miles away) could program them for me ("most of the time" he said) for about 2/3 of what the dealer (50 miles away) quoted by phone. Still more than $50. per key though. It really ticks me off that these keys are so expensive from the dealer--and it's inconvenient to go there.

Did some reading here though, and took one "ebay" key to close by hardware store where my buddy cut it at no charge (but could not program it of course). Just holding my master key near the "ebay" key allowed it to start my 4Runner (see photos...ebay key is in ignition and started engine, with master key as shown in positions nearby). It would continue to run afterward when the master key was removed from the area. If I had the master key a little too far away, the ebay key would crank the starter but the engine would not start.

I am aware you can install a bypass for the engine immobilizer (XPressKit Data Transponder Override Interface at Amazon.com for example, around $32.) but a simpler path seems to be putting the master or valet key under the cowling right next to the ignition switch, test the ebay keys carefully, and then keep using regular, non-chipped CHEAP keys. They open the door locks fine.

Here's where someone will chime in "why not just go to the dealer and not worry about it". Well, $200+ for a few keys is much of the reason why. I'm not only concerned about the cost but also that apparently you can only have 4 chipped keys at a time (from what I've read). My dad and wife need a key, I need one for each of 2 keyrings, and I'd like a couple more as spares or to hide.

I plan to tear into the dash anyway to do some other work this week so I'll be looking at that ignition switch cowling anyway, but thought I'd put this out and would appreciate any comments from anyone who has done a similar procedure, in case I missed something in my little test today. I know from reading here that others have done this, just wondering if there are any other refinements. Thanks...

 

[PabloPaulo]

in case I missed something in my little test today.[/QUOTE]

Well, what I missed in the earlier testing is that this technique doesn't work very RELIABLY. :redbrick: I had the left/lower dash out of the way (got my key reminder/door open/annoyance chime disabled while I was in there, yahoo), and tried temporarily taping a master key in various positions around the now-exposed key opening/cylinder. The "cheap" key would then SOMETIMES or even OFTEN start the engine, if the master key was in just the right place. It has to be out front a bit, it can't be back behind the key cylinder. That usually put it in the way of inserting the other key. I thought about cutting open one of my two master/valet keys, taking out the chip and putting it on there (I really wanted this hack to work), but in the end, decided it was not going to work well enough. I have ordered a XPressKit Data Transponder Override Interface at Amazon.com (PKT1 version) as advised by others here, and will give that a try next week. For $32. it's worth a shot, and who knows maybe I'll put in a remote starter later too, which I believe is the reason they make the XPressKit Data Transponder. Might be handy when it's -20 again next winter.

If anyone else reads this and wants to try it again, a couple things I learned: the chip (in the rubber part of the key) needs to be right next to or in front of the white ring you'll see when you take off the lower dash; this ring encircles the key cylinder/opening and must be some kind of antenna that reads the chip in the key. Also it seemed like the master key worked quite a bit more reliably/often than the valet key did, when holding it up to the cylinder and starting the 4Runner with the "fake" key. Maybe it has a bigger chip or something.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Some people will cut open a key for the rice grain sized transponder to glue to the ignition ring... Not that I recommend doing that.

 

[KB084RUNNER]

Leaving the key next to the ignition will active the immobilizer circuit continuously and burn out the key battery or immobilizer. The keys are expensive because of the electronics involved. Get a bypass kit or keys at the dealer or be prepared to be stuck when the battery in the factory key dies. If the immobilizer dies...you will wish you spent the $200.

 

[Asmara]

in case I missed something in my little test today.

Well, what I missed in the earlier testing is that this technique doesn't work very RELIABLY. :redbrick: The "cheap" key would then SOMETIMES or even OFTEN start the engine, if the master key was in just the right place.
I have ordered a XPressKit Data Transponder Override Interface at Amazon.com (PKT1 version) as advised by others here, and will give that a try next week. For $32. it's worth a shot, and who knows maybe I'll put in a remote starter later too, which I believe is the reason they make the XPressKit Data Transponder.

If anyone else reads this and wants to try it again, a couple things I learned: the chip (in the rubber part of the key) needs to be right next to or in front of the white ring you'll see when you take off the lower dash; this ring encircles the key cylinder/opening and must be some kind of antenna that reads the chip in the key. Also it seemed like the master key worked quite a bit more reliably/often than the valet key did, when holding it up to the cylinder and starting the 4Runner with the "fake" key. Maybe it has a bigger chip or something.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for all the information. I was thinking about doing the same thing and see it isn't too feasible. Please be sure to post install pics and let us know your thoughts on the data transponder.

 

[4by4runr]

Leaving the key next to the ignition will active the immobilizer circuit continuously and burn out the key battery or immobilizer. The keys are expensive because of the electronics involved. Get a bypass kit or keys at the dealer or be prepared to be stuck when the battery in the factory key dies. If the immobilizer dies...you will wish you spent the $200.

Anybody know how long the keys typically last? Has anyone ever had one die?

 

[derekgroh]

I installed a Viper remote start in my 99 Limited this week, specifically to try to bypass the immobilizer, and it went perfectly.

When I purchased my 4runner, the owner only had one valet key and no master keys. Per the dealership, the only thing I could do to get more keys was to install a new ECM and then program new keys to that unit (at around $1,500).

Now I start my 4runner using the remote start and then insert a non-programmed key into the ignition. The ECM has already received its code from the remote start system, so it doesn't matter that the key I'm using isn't chipped or programmed.

I used an audio installer to install the remote start, but from what I understood he installed this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...fl_title_16?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3ADWMNXT7FS32 (currently $61 on Amazon) and this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001N7RE44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (currently $30 on Amazon). My total paid was about $400 for parts and install, but that sure beats $1,500 at a dealer, and the bonus is that I have remote start now.

 

[Elan750]

I did this in my ford escape. It also had a white ring type antenna. I had to put the key head WITHIN the white ring, wrap it in tape to keep it from moving, and stick it back in there. Worked flawlessly.

I bought a key on ebay for a couple bucks and had the local hardware store cut it. HE was a little confused when I told him i didnt want it programmed. He cut it for free because he said he makes the money from programming, not cutting- I felt a little bad so I bought some cauking.

One thing I ran into was trying the key when the computer doesnt read the sensor caused the car to go into an antitheft mode and I had to find some wierd trick to get it out of antitheft mode. Again, this was a Ford

 

[maliu1]

If you have a master key just program them your self. Hide an extra key on the car somewhere if you aren’t worried about someone stealing your rig.


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[L8Shift]

I installed a Viper remote start in my 99 Limited this week, specifically to try to bypass the immobilizer, and it went perfectly.

When I purchased my 4runner, the owner only had one valet key and no master keys. Per the dealership, the only thing I could do to get more keys was to install a new ECM and then program new keys to that unit (at around $1,500).
.

Unless the lock was changed, I believe my dealer generates working keys from the VIN.

That is how I got an extra full set.

 

[BTank]

I have a 2000 4Runner limited which does have a transponder/chipped key. Only to find this out after my ignition lock cylinder had started giving me a more consistent issue. Tried to find a way to bypass or delete the whole transponder ignition because a transponder ignition w/key at parts store 300.00 which I was told a dealer or service garage with right tools would have to flash the 4Runner and sync everything. Being 600.00 +- for everything.
Local locksmith said they couldn’t rebuild.
Solution:I had good key and transponder just a bad cylinder. So I took old cylinder, put the key in it with the coil transponder and tucked it under the dash tapped together, this allows the transmitters to make a connection. Then went back to parts store and bought a 70.00 non transponder ignition with keys where I can also buy spare cheap keys. Just have different key for door and ignition now, but saved 500.00 and cheap keys in future!

 

[Ralph Blake]

What is the life of the battery in the key?

 

[pauldub]

What is the life of the battery in the key?

I doubt there is a battery in the key, probably just RFID or equivalent.

 

[Ralph Blake]

I doubt there is a battery in the key, probably just RFID or equivalent.

Thank you for your quick answer, so there is no problem with key not working because of power in key it self.