I've got it covered now. Went for a better system than the "starter kit" I'd been shopping. Better long-term capability but a considerably greater investment up front. About 3x the cost.
:thumbup:
Chronicles of Silver
- Thread starter vm_boy
- Start date
I've got it covered now. Went for a better system than the "starter kit" I'd been shopping. Better long-term capability but a considerably greater investment up front. About 3x the cost.
:thumbup:
no worries, I know life gets in the way!
everything looks good, looking forward to mine now that you got the bugs worked out on Chase's set
SamSter0077
New member
Very Clean truck Chase!
vm_boy
New member
[MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION], I tried to find you, but I didn't know what you or your 4Runner looked like. I met some of your other MO friends during the group photo. I think the majority of the 3rd gens came down with you . I was hoping to see your antenna mount and end links in person, but maybe next time.
. I was hoping to see your antenna mount and end links in person, but maybe next time.
MStudt
official vendor
[MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION], I tried to find you, but I didn't know what you or your 4Runner looked like. I met some of your other MO friends during the group photo. I think the majority of the 3rd gens came down with you
We left just before the group picture. We were down at Old Camp, quiet, and no dust! The red dust was starting to get me, and the river was calling. We headed up to the Buffalo River in northern Arkansas that night. I'm actually thinking about selling my antenna mount, just don't really care for the look. Mine fits better than the original Drifter mount I modeled it off of. It's a solid mount, just not my style.
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NJCatalana
New member
finally found your thread! a little late, but it was good talking with you at lonestar during the group photo. we'll definitely be back there next year!
vm_boy
New member
My next project is in the works: new radiator (not pictured), add B&M trans fluid cooler, replace valve cover gaskets, Denso double platinum spark plugs, NGK wires, oil change, and all the other "while you're in there" stuff. Check back in a couple of weeks for the action shots.
vm_boy
New member
Valve Cover Gasket, etc. Parts List
From Camelback Toyota (I also looked at Toyota of Dallas/TRDParts4U, but the tax was more expensive than the free shipping from Camelback)
(2) Valve cover gasket - 11213-62020 = $19.28 ea
(6) spark plug tube - 11193-70010 = $2.36 ea
(1) pcv valve- 12204-62010 = $7.63 ea
(1) grommet - 90480-18001 = $3.77 ea
(4) semicircular plug - 11183-62010 = 5.89 ea
(16) seal washer - 90210-05007 = $0.74 ea
(2) intake plenum gasket - 17176-62040 = 8.47 ea
(1) air filter - 17801-07020 = $15.95 ea
(2) camshaft plug - 11188-62010 = $7.55 ea
(1) TRD oil filter - PTR43-00080 = $9.30 ea
Free Shipping for orders >$150
Handling Fee = $3.00
Total = $159.81
From RockAuto.com
(6) Denso Double Platinum Spark Plugs (3289) = $5.80 ea
(1) NGK Spark Plug Wire Set (4412) = $26.79 ea
(1) Goodyear 61428 Lower Radiator Hose = $7.92 ea
(1) Stant Radiator Cap 10241 = $4.97 ea
Discount = -$3.08
Shipping = $8.92
Total = $67.43
From Amazon
(1) TYC 1998 Radiator = $116.92
(1) Goodyear 62128 Upper Radiator Hose = $12.97
(1) B&M 70268 SuperCooler = $49.23
From Toyota of Dallas/TRDParts4U
(1) Toyota "Red" Antifreeze/Coolant 00272-1LLAC-01 = $23.63
From Walmart
(1) 5 Qt. Valvoline ML HM Full Syn 5W-30 = $22.67
EDIT-
From NAPA
(1) NAPA Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant (NAF 1EXT)
4' 3/8" transmission fluid hose
hose clamps
Total = $37.06
Additional Thoughts:
I also have about 1/2 Qt of Valvoine ML HM Syn Blend 10W-30 left over from another recent oil change that I plan on mixing with the 5W-30 Full Syn. I also realized afterward that I would need more antifreeze/coolant, so I got some of the NAPA Extended Life Antifreeze (NAF 1EXT, $12.99) and I plan on adding 1-2 qts of that to the Toyota Red.
Does anybody see anything wrong with the list? Am I missing anything? Do I have the wrong parts or the wrong quantity of anything? What are your thoughts on mixing the the oils and antifreezes? Anything else I should get/do while I'm in there?
From Camelback Toyota (I also looked at Toyota of Dallas/TRDParts4U, but the tax was more expensive than the free shipping from Camelback)
(2) Valve cover gasket - 11213-62020 = $19.28 ea
(6) spark plug tube - 11193-70010 = $2.36 ea
(1) pcv valve- 12204-62010 = $7.63 ea
(1) grommet - 90480-18001 = $3.77 ea
(4) semicircular plug - 11183-62010 = 5.89 ea
(16) seal washer - 90210-05007 = $0.74 ea
(2) intake plenum gasket - 17176-62040 = 8.47 ea
(1) air filter - 17801-07020 = $15.95 ea
(2) camshaft plug - 11188-62010 = $7.55 ea
(1) TRD oil filter - PTR43-00080 = $9.30 ea
Free Shipping for orders >$150
Handling Fee = $3.00
Total = $159.81
From RockAuto.com
(6) Denso Double Platinum Spark Plugs (3289) = $5.80 ea
(1) NGK Spark Plug Wire Set (4412) = $26.79 ea
(1) Goodyear 61428 Lower Radiator Hose = $7.92 ea
(1) Stant Radiator Cap 10241 = $4.97 ea
Discount = -$3.08
Shipping = $8.92
Total = $67.43
From Amazon
(1) TYC 1998 Radiator = $116.92
(1) Goodyear 62128 Upper Radiator Hose = $12.97
(1) B&M 70268 SuperCooler = $49.23
From Toyota of Dallas/TRDParts4U
(1) Toyota "Red" Antifreeze/Coolant 00272-1LLAC-01 = $23.63
From Walmart
(1) 5 Qt. Valvoline ML HM Full Syn 5W-30 = $22.67
EDIT-
From NAPA
(1) NAPA Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant (NAF 1EXT)
4' 3/8" transmission fluid hose
hose clamps
Total = $37.06
Additional Thoughts:
I also have about 1/2 Qt of Valvoine ML HM Syn Blend 10W-30 left over from another recent oil change that I plan on mixing with the 5W-30 Full Syn. I also realized afterward that I would need more antifreeze/coolant, so I got some of the NAPA Extended Life Antifreeze (NAF 1EXT, $12.99) and I plan on adding 1-2 qts of that to the Toyota Red.
Does anybody see anything wrong with the list? Am I missing anything? Do I have the wrong parts or the wrong quantity of anything? What are your thoughts on mixing the the oils and antifreezes? Anything else I should get/do while I'm in there?
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Damn! Gonna be one hell of a project. I just did the trans cooler install last weekend, very happy with it, make sure you get at least 8 feet of 3/8" trans hose for that. I really need to do my valve cover gaskets... Also- Im curious where you got that the 98 TYC radiator fits into these, cause i was also looking into a new radiator also. The mixing of fluids I wouldn't know anything about.. sorry. Looks like a fun weekend though! Keep us posted
vm_boy
New member
Awww, thanks! I was wondering if I would need some sort of hose for the transmission fluid.
TYC 1998 is the part number, not the model year. I just went onto RockAuto and looked into the options. I had read several threads on here about the TYC/KOYO radiators so that's what I went with. Denso probably would have been another good alternative. Here's a thread to look at (link)
vm_boy
New member
THIS OFFICIALLY MAKES POST 100 FOR ME!!! :biggrin2:
So I just realized that I ordered the smaller B&M 70268 Trans Cooler rather than the larger 70264. Rather than creating a whole new thread, I'm hoping to just get some opinions on my specific situation. I have read some of the other threads on this, but the opinions are mixed and often situation specific. My main priority is to avoid the pink milkshake so I was planning on bypassing the radiator altogether. But now I'm concerned the 70268 won't be big enough to handle the load. I bought the TYC/Koyo 1998 radiator and it's my understanding that it's not as susceptible to the pink milkshake as the OEM Toyota radiator.
My Situation:
I live in Dallas. It is my daily driver, but it's only about 6 miles each way and no traffic. I have no immediate plans of lifts, tires, and general offroading, but it is in the 2-3 year horizon. I'm also hoping to use the 4Runner for camping, hiking, and other nature-y roadtrip family vacations. Maybe towing things (like a boat) at some point way on down the road.
So what do you think? Should I bypass the radiator or run the cooler inline?
So I just realized that I ordered the smaller B&M 70268 Trans Cooler rather than the larger 70264. Rather than creating a whole new thread, I'm hoping to just get some opinions on my specific situation. I have read some of the other threads on this, but the opinions are mixed and often situation specific. My main priority is to avoid the pink milkshake so I was planning on bypassing the radiator altogether. But now I'm concerned the 70268 won't be big enough to handle the load. I bought the TYC/Koyo 1998 radiator and it's my understanding that it's not as susceptible to the pink milkshake as the OEM Toyota radiator.
My Situation:
I live in Dallas. It is my daily driver, but it's only about 6 miles each way and no traffic. I have no immediate plans of lifts, tires, and general offroading, but it is in the 2-3 year horizon. I'm also hoping to use the 4Runner for camping, hiking, and other nature-y roadtrip family vacations. Maybe towing things (like a boat) at some point way on down the road.
So what do you think? Should I bypass the radiator or run the cooler inline?
vm_boy
New member
Radiator, Trans Cooler, Valve Cover Gasket, Spark Plugs and wires
Over the weekend I did some preventative maintenance on the 4Runner. In hopes of eliminating the infamous pink milkshake, I replaced the radiator with a Koyo/TYC and added a B&M SuperCooler 70268. I ultimately decided to run them in series rather than bypassing the radiator. I also had a bit of an oil leak from the valve cover gaskets, so I replaced the valve cover gaskets and everything that goes into that (semi-circles, grommets, etc.). I bought the cam plugs, but decided not to replace them. I also replaced the spark plugs and wires with Denso double platinums and NGK wires. For a complete parts list, you can look a few posts up (here).
Everything went pretty well and everything was extremely clean, especially for 230k miles. Some of the coolant and vacuum hoses cracked, but those were easy enough to replace. It really gives me peace of mind so I'll have more confidence when I decide to invest more money into lifts, tires, and armor.
When the trans cooler was being mounted, the drill went through the cross bar and punctured the a/c condenser. So I'm a/c-less this week, but we'll get it fixed next weekend. We'll also replace the fuel filter and transmission fluid/filter while we're at it.
Grille off:
Cody mounting the transmission fluid cooler:
Transmission fluid cooler mounted:
Under the passenger valve cover - SUPER clean:
Throttle body open and cleaned:
Throttle body closed, new NGK wires, and PCV valve:
Finally, all buttoned up:
Over the weekend I did some preventative maintenance on the 4Runner. In hopes of eliminating the infamous pink milkshake, I replaced the radiator with a Koyo/TYC and added a B&M SuperCooler 70268. I ultimately decided to run them in series rather than bypassing the radiator. I also had a bit of an oil leak from the valve cover gaskets, so I replaced the valve cover gaskets and everything that goes into that (semi-circles, grommets, etc.). I bought the cam plugs, but decided not to replace them. I also replaced the spark plugs and wires with Denso double platinums and NGK wires. For a complete parts list, you can look a few posts up (here).
Everything went pretty well and everything was extremely clean, especially for 230k miles. Some of the coolant and vacuum hoses cracked, but those were easy enough to replace. It really gives me peace of mind so I'll have more confidence when I decide to invest more money into lifts, tires, and armor.
When the trans cooler was being mounted, the drill went through the cross bar and punctured the a/c condenser. So I'm a/c-less this week, but we'll get it fixed next weekend. We'll also replace the fuel filter and transmission fluid/filter while we're at it.
Grille off:
Cody mounting the transmission fluid cooler:
Transmission fluid cooler mounted:
Under the passenger valve cover - SUPER clean:
Throttle body open and cleaned:
Throttle body closed, new NGK wires, and PCV valve:
Finally, all buttoned up:
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vm_boy
New member
A/C Condenser/Drier and Trans Fluid Drain/Fill
Last weekend, the A/C condenser was accidentally punctured while mounting the transmission fluid cooler. So this weekend, we replaced the A/C condenser and drier (both were Denso). In addition, we also drained the transmission fluid, replaced the filter and refilled (a Hastings filter and Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc Full Synthetic ATF).
The magnets in the pan were pretty clean, which is promising. But, the fluid coming out was dark black...about the color of old motor oil, but with a tinge of red. I should have gotten a picture of it, but I didn't think about that until just now.
Now I'm having some issues with the torque converter engaging. From a stop, the engine will rev up to about 3k rpm and the transmission will finally engage. Also, when coming to a stop, the vehicle will lurch. I think it's just a matter of getting enough ATF in the system (has anyone noticed how awful the dipstick is?!?). We started with about 2 qt as the manual says (2.1 to be exact). I drove a little, then put some more in...still issues, but not as bad. I'm now up to about 2.5-2.7 qts and it seems to be getting better. I'm thinking it's probably 2.1 qts regularly, but the new trans cooler probably adds another .5 qts or so. Anyone have experience with this and could tell me how much the trans cooler holds?
Not too many action shots here, but it's something.
A/C Charge
New Trans Filter
Clean Pan
Last weekend, the A/C condenser was accidentally punctured while mounting the transmission fluid cooler. So this weekend, we replaced the A/C condenser and drier (both were Denso). In addition, we also drained the transmission fluid, replaced the filter and refilled (a Hastings filter and Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc Full Synthetic ATF).
The magnets in the pan were pretty clean, which is promising. But, the fluid coming out was dark black...about the color of old motor oil, but with a tinge of red. I should have gotten a picture of it, but I didn't think about that until just now.
Now I'm having some issues with the torque converter engaging. From a stop, the engine will rev up to about 3k rpm and the transmission will finally engage. Also, when coming to a stop, the vehicle will lurch. I think it's just a matter of getting enough ATF in the system (has anyone noticed how awful the dipstick is?!?). We started with about 2 qt as the manual says (2.1 to be exact). I drove a little, then put some more in...still issues, but not as bad. I'm now up to about 2.5-2.7 qts and it seems to be getting better. I'm thinking it's probably 2.1 qts regularly, but the new trans cooler probably adds another .5 qts or so. Anyone have experience with this and could tell me how much the trans cooler holds?
Not too many action shots here, but it's something.
A/C Charge
New Trans Filter
Clean Pan
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vm_boy
New member
Fuel Filter
Just a quick update. Over the weekend, I replaced the fuel filter. I used the Mann MF1016 which I got on Amazon for about $13 after tax and free shipping (link). I had no problems with fitment or anything else. There are several good write-ups on the various forums so I won't go into too much detail here other than point you to this thread here which I skimmed through beforehand and add a few of my own comments.
My additional comments about that thread:
That thread calls for a 19mm wrench...I used a 3/4" because that's what I found first and it worked just fine. I also wasn't sure if I absolutely needed a flarenut wrench (I didn't have one initially and wasn't sure if I wanted to buy one), but I found a good deal at Harbor Freight and I would certainly recommend getting one. You do have to apply a significant amount of torque to break it loose and to tighten it back (so it doesn't leak!!!). The job would have been miserable if the wrench kept coming off...or worse, stripped/rounded the nut. Also, I didn't completely remove the skid plate/dust cover thing. I removed the two 12mm bolts for ease of access, but I kept the plastic pin in the frame. I just rotated the cover around and propped it up so that it was out of the way. I also didn't worry about anti-seize anything and it came off and went back on just fine. Just make sure you keep an eye on it after you've run it a little while and make sure you aren't leaking any fuel.
That site also says to pull the EFI....naaah, just release the gas cap and get a bucket (I used an empty box of Tidy Cat litter). I got about 4-8 oz of gas out of it. When I was finished, I poured it back into my lawn mower's gas can using a funnel and a paper towel (I would have used a coffee filter, but I didn't have any) to filter out any crud.
I wish I could say that I have some amazing performance now, but I really don't. It's pretty much the exact same, but that's fine because it was already running and starting up just fine. If nothing else, I at least have the peace of mind that it's in good condition and I now have the experience.
Just a quick update. Over the weekend, I replaced the fuel filter. I used the Mann MF1016 which I got on Amazon for about $13 after tax and free shipping (link). I had no problems with fitment or anything else. There are several good write-ups on the various forums so I won't go into too much detail here other than point you to this thread here which I skimmed through beforehand and add a few of my own comments.
My additional comments about that thread:
That thread calls for a 19mm wrench...I used a 3/4" because that's what I found first and it worked just fine. I also wasn't sure if I absolutely needed a flarenut wrench (I didn't have one initially and wasn't sure if I wanted to buy one), but I found a good deal at Harbor Freight and I would certainly recommend getting one. You do have to apply a significant amount of torque to break it loose and to tighten it back (so it doesn't leak!!!). The job would have been miserable if the wrench kept coming off...or worse, stripped/rounded the nut. Also, I didn't completely remove the skid plate/dust cover thing. I removed the two 12mm bolts for ease of access, but I kept the plastic pin in the frame. I just rotated the cover around and propped it up so that it was out of the way. I also didn't worry about anti-seize anything and it came off and went back on just fine. Just make sure you keep an eye on it after you've run it a little while and make sure you aren't leaking any fuel.
That site also says to pull the EFI....naaah, just release the gas cap and get a bucket (I used an empty box of Tidy Cat litter). I got about 4-8 oz of gas out of it. When I was finished, I poured it back into my lawn mower's gas can using a funnel and a paper towel (I would have used a coffee filter, but I didn't have any) to filter out any crud.
I wish I could say that I have some amazing performance now, but I really don't. It's pretty much the exact same, but that's fine because it was already running and starting up just fine. If nothing else, I at least have the peace of mind that it's in good condition and I now have the experience.
OVERLAND IN TX
New member
I found you! Took me awhile, but I found you.
So I guess you never purchased a GX470, or so I heard though the trees?
So I guess you never purchased a GX470, or so I heard though the trees?
vm_boy
New member
Before I bought the 4Runner, I had looked into mid- to late-90s LX450/470s and Land Cruisers. I ultimately found this 4Runner in excellent condition and with the e-locker and multi-mode. It was only a couple of miles from the house and I was able to negotiate a great price and paid in cash. The LC/LXs are awesome, but they're a bit more expensive and guzzle a bit more gas, especially as a DD. Maybe someday I'll look in that direction again.
