Chuckles' 98 Manual SR5 4Runner

Have you greased the driveshaft yoke, prolly when you greased the u-joints? You've crawled all over your truck doing an awesome amount of maintenance, but that little zerk gets missed pretty often. Especially if it's been broken off. It's often a source of mystery clunks.
 
Have you greased the driveshaft yoke, prolly when you greased the u-joints? You've crawled all over your truck doing an awesome amount of maintenance, but that little zerk gets missed pretty often. Especially if it's been broken off. It's often a source of mystery clunks.

Plenty of grease and drive shaft and u-joints seem tight. All rear bushings replaced, including the sway bars. It drives great now. Just a clunk?

Stephen :party:
 
Plenty of grease and drive shaft and u-joints seem tight. All rear bushings replaced, including the sway bars. It drives great now. Just a clunk?

Stephen :party:

My double cardan felt tight until I took the drive shaft off. Then it had play. That was the source of my clunk & vibration.
 
Ah yes, another sneaky devil of a zerk in that double cardan....what are there, like 7 zerks between both shafts and all 5 u-joints?

Ha, you're going to be chasing that clunk for months.....
and then one day the dirt lump will fall out. :D
 
Ah yes, another sneaky devil of a zerk in that double cardan....what are there, like 7 zerks between both shafts and all 5 u-joints?

Ha, you're going to be chasing that clunk for months.....
and then one day the dirt lump will fall out. :D

I'm not sure if I have greased that joint or not :rain: But I know I have done the rest many times.

I will check it when I get back home...
 
I'm not sure if I have greased that joint or not :rain: But I know I have done the rest many times.

I will check it when I get back home...

You wouldn't be the only one by about a million other 4Runner owners. Can you think of another passenger vehicle driveshaft(s) with 7 grease fittings?

And then the rock finally rolls out of the gas tank skid...
:der:

There is one thing I know for absolute certain about your clunk, and that is there is a 40# dog sleeping in my lap right now.
 
Last edited:
You wouldn't be the only one by about a million other 4Runner owners. Can you think of another passenger vehicle driveshaft(s) with 7 grease fittings?

And then the rock finally rolls out of the gas tank skid...
:der:

There is one thing I know for absolute certain about your clunk, and that is there is a 40# dog sleeping in my lap right now.

So I found that zerk last night. I have never greased that one before. It took abut 7-8 pumps of grease before anything came out. I hope it isn't damaged. My plan is to drive it around the block today and then grease it again. Thanks so much Habanero!
 
So I have a problem :(


I went offroading with some buddies tonight and my 4WD is not fully disengaged.

The t-case is working properly, but the ADD front diff is not. It is still engaged and won't come out. The 4WD light on the dash is 1/2 way lit up (very dim).

The 4WD was working fine until I disengaged it and then a few minutes later, it would not go back in.

Does anyone have any Ideas as to what the problem is?

We're going to look at the vacuum lines sometime and see if we can fix it. There's also a nice gravel lot we can test it with.
 
Pictures from the trip

Document Name Resized001.jpg

Document Name Resized002.jpg

Document Name Resized003.jpg

Document Name Resized005.jpg

Document Name Resized006.jpg

Document Name Resized007.jpg

Document Name Resized008.jpg

Document Name Resized012.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Document Name Resized001.jpg
    Document Name Resized001.jpg
    90.1 KB · Views: 880
  • Document Name Resized002.jpg
    Document Name Resized002.jpg
    61.1 KB · Views: 844
  • Document Name Resized003.jpg
    Document Name Resized003.jpg
    60.3 KB · Views: 855
  • Document Name Resized005.jpg
    Document Name Resized005.jpg
    99.4 KB · Views: 857
  • Document Name Resized006.jpg
    Document Name Resized006.jpg
    88.1 KB · Views: 841
  • Document Name Resized007.jpg
    Document Name Resized007.jpg
    70.4 KB · Views: 852
  • Document Name Resized008.jpg
    Document Name Resized008.jpg
    65.6 KB · Views: 874
  • Document Name Resized012.jpg
    Document Name Resized012.jpg
    64.7 KB · Views: 866
Waiting for someone with dif diagnosis experience....so let's just call this a bump because it's not really useful.


I've had mine out and in, but other than a bad vacuum line that the po had to deal with it's been working great (knock on wood!).
P4222345_zps1100c8c8.jpg~original

The yellow circle is the 3rd bolt you have to undo- and then lift it up and out of the hole in the cross member- if you end up needing to take the whole stupid thing out.
The actuator is the light brown dirt colored thing behind the passenger side axle tube. Easy to find because of the big round vacuum diaphragm with 'L' shaped hose barb. The vacuum lines go into a set of metal lines bolted to the top of the diff. It was bypassed with a vacuum hose. Vacuum lines for the 4wd can be found on the driver's wheel well in the engine compartment below the moo-box.

Is it weird that the light is simply dim? I don't recall correctly, thought it was supposed to blink or something, not go dim?

Will love to hear how this gets figured out!
 
Waiting for someone with dif diagnosis experience....so let's just call this a bump because it's not really useful.


I've had mine out and in, but other than a bad vacuum line that the po had to deal with it's been working great (knock on wood!).
P4222345_zps1100c8c8.jpg~original

The yellow circle is the 3rd bolt you have to undo- and then lift it up and out of the hole in the cross member- if you end up needing to take the whole stupid thing out.
The actuator is the light brown dirt colored thing behind the passenger side axle tube. Easy to find because of the big round vacuum diaphragm with 'L' shaped hose barb. The vacuum lines go into a set of metal lines bolted to the top of the diff. It was bypassed with a vacuum hose. Vacuum lines for the 4wd can be found on the driver's wheel well in the engine compartment below the moo-box.

Is it weird that the light is simply dim? I don't recall correctly, thought it was supposed to blink or something, not go dim?

Will love to hear how this gets figured out!


Well, I really don't want to go through all that hassle! I was planning on jacking up one wheel and spinning it while I try moving the shifter. If that doesn't work, I will switch the vacuum lines at the VSV. I'll also check all the vacuum lines, as I replaced a lot of them a few weeks ago. If both of those don't work, I will start replacing even more vacuum lines.


I think the blinking light is with the 99+ T4Rs as I just have the plain one in the corner of the gauge cluster.
 
Will love to hear how this gets figured out!

Well, this is really great! I was about to head out to the store, so I figured I would try something easy first. I simply started the engine and pulled off both vacuum lines ate the VSV and reattached them. When I got in, the 4WD light was off and it shifted normally (and instantly) in and out of 4WD HI and LO! :biggrin1:

I really want manual hubs so I can eliminate all this vacuum crap!
 
Well, this is really great! I was about to head out to the store, so I figured I would try something easy first. I simply started the engine and pulled off both vacuum lines ate the VSV and reattached them. When I got in, the 4WD light was off and it shifted normally (and instantly) in and out of 4WD HI and LO! :biggrin1:

I really want manual hubs so I can eliminate all this vacuum crap!
Super excellent on the 4x fix!

Manual hubs means being able to unlock the CVS from the hubs at the wheel which has its advantages. Generally, though, you'd keep your current dif and 4 wheel drive system, sorry. You would also lose your front ABS unless you go through the expense of moving the manual hubs to your abs spindles or find the rare manual hub spindle with abs. If you do ditch the front and you will also lose your speedo on bumps and it won't work again until after you come to a near stop. There are a couple of fixes for the speedo, no worries. It's all not hard to do particularly. If you have any questions I prolly have answers.

I know that's prolly a lot more than you cared to know, but I'm aom. We tend to over explain everything. :D
 
Don't worry, I've done a lot of research. My plan was to take out the front diff while I have the CVs out and convert it to "always engaged" and plug off all the vacuum lines. Then I could remove the entire system.

Can't I get a non-abs speedo sensor that goes in the transfer case? I'm also not that worried about loosing the front ABS because it isn't the greatest anyways.

I probably won't ever find any hubs/other parts for a good price though. :( Back last fall, I was going to get a set of hubs, spindles, and new CVs for like $350, but the guy sold his part-out truck before I got them.
 
Don't worry, I've done a lot of research. My plan was to take out the front diff while I have the CVs out and convert it to "always engaged" and plug off all the vacuum lines. Then I could remove the entire system.

Can't I get a non-abs speedo sensor that goes in the transfer case? I'm also not that worried about loosing the front ABS because it isn't the greatest anyways.

I probably won't ever find any hubs/other parts for a good price though. :( Back last fall, I was going to get a set of hubs, spindles, and new CVs for like $350, but the guy sold his part-out truck before I got them.
I don't worry about you....what you've done is impressive and level-headed. Your truck is shaping up very nicely!

Affirmative on the speedo sensor. I've got how-to with pics on wiring up the sensor if you want them. It's not hard at all. It is a spendy little bit (along with those other bits) so nab it when/if you get the spindles and cvs out of a 96+ taco. Too bad we can't use the older style hubs, those seem more readily available.

I left my ABS out for a long time, then finally went ahead and had the hubs pressed into my 4Runner spindles when I changed out the wheel bearings but yeah, can't say I missed the ABS at all. Then again, when I learned to drive around the dinosaurs and pterodactyls- we didn't have ABS.
post 1935
http://www.yotatech.com/f200/habaneros-1996-4runner-build-up-thread-201751/index97.html
highly scientific information teaser:
P6052652_zpsf11e1f48.jpg~original
 
Last edited:
So I haven't posted in a while...

I waterproofed the connections for the ADD stuff and ran new vacuum lines. One of those fixed it because I have gone through the creek twice now with no problems!

I'm still having some kind of clunk. I need to check the motor mounts and transmission mount. It could be the u-joints too? I might just wind up living with it :roadkill:

Here's a lame video and a video of the CR-V coming up a steep rise
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4dvG3EeYG6E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dvG3EeYG6E

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gElwXWSLXlw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gElwXWSLXlw



Lookin' pretty at the campground
Document Name Resized005.jpg

Document Name Resized006.jpg

Document Name Resized007.jpg

Document Name Resized003.jpg



Snapchat-8271152505457501809.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Document Name Resized005.jpg
    Document Name Resized005.jpg
    111.3 KB · Views: 750
  • Document Name Resized006.jpg
    Document Name Resized006.jpg
    132 KB · Views: 777
  • Document Name Resized007.jpg
    Document Name Resized007.jpg
    64.5 KB · Views: 750
  • Document Name Resized003.jpg
    Document Name Resized003.jpg
    125.3 KB · Views: 738
  • Snapchat-8271152505457501809.jpg
    Snapchat-8271152505457501809.jpg
    125.2 KB · Views: 746

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,085
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top