Clownmeat's build thread
- Thread starter Clownmeat
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Clownmeat
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This thing will work on the A340 and AW4 trans and probably more, and they put them in so many cars and trucks. Seems to be a lot of interest in it, but don't know if I want to make more of them. Not expensive but time consuming, guess I could if it was worth the time, have to wait and see.
quicksilvr
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bikerjosh
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paddle shifters in a 4runner- wtf
I'm amazed it only took a 150 lines of code to write this program. :hatsoff: Granted the last code I wrote was back in high school on a graphics program called "turtle" LOL. Does the module you ordered from china have a basic algorithm already bulit into it, and you're just modifying it for certain fail safe, up and downshift points? So if I'm reading this right you'll be able to shift the transmission normally for P,R,N, etc or just put it in D and shift among 1-4? Are you worried about the tranny valve body slipping the clutches too much with the added power and the possibility of higher shift points?
I have a Level-10 valve body upgrade in my SC'd 4runner if you want to experiment? :zoom:
josh
I'm amazed it only took a 150 lines of code to write this program. :hatsoff: Granted the last code I wrote was back in high school on a graphics program called "turtle" LOL. Does the module you ordered from china have a basic algorithm already bulit into it, and you're just modifying it for certain fail safe, up and downshift points? So if I'm reading this right you'll be able to shift the transmission normally for P,R,N, etc or just put it in D and shift among 1-4? Are you worried about the tranny valve body slipping the clutches too much with the added power and the possibility of higher shift points?
I have a Level-10 valve body upgrade in my SC'd 4runner if you want to experiment? :zoom:
josh
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Clownmeat
New member
There will be a 2pdt on/on rocker or rotary switch. Position 1 ECM controlled shifting (stock), position 2 paddle/manual shift.
For manual/paddle shift mode, the stock shifter will be put in drive, switch set to manual, then good to go up and down via paddles. It will go into any gear sequentialy at any time, speed, rpm, and hold that gear no matter what. Hope this clarifies things.
Just using a microcontroller board to run the 2 shift solenoids and some LED's, nothing robotic to physically take the shifter out of park or anything.
For manual/paddle shift mode, the stock shifter will be put in drive, switch set to manual, then good to go up and down via paddles. It will go into any gear sequentialy at any time, speed, rpm, and hold that gear no matter what. Hope this clarifies things.
Just using a microcontroller board to run the 2 shift solenoids and some LED's, nothing robotic to physically take the shifter out of park or anything.
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sleepswithagun
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Im ready to see a test fit with the paddles. lol Getting anxious to see this done anf working! Props btw... you do great work!
Clownmeat
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Thanks. I will have some spare time tomorrow to mess with it, we'll see what happens.
Clownmeat
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You could leave from a stop in overdrive if you wanted, completely manual.
ToyoTech
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you got me REALLY interested. its the one thing that lacks in an automatic. now will this allow similar engine braking like in a manual? are you gonna have control of lock up as well if so it will need to disengage close or near stop
Clownmeat
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Yes, it will engine brake when down shifting.
As far as the lockup, maybe 3 positions, haven't come to a conclusion yet because I will need to road test it and play with it more to make it to my liking.
1. Stock ECM controlled
2. A manual on/off switch
3. Race/whatever mode, under WOT will lock in 2,3,4
Clownmeat
New member
Although being sick and wanting to lay on the couch I managed to install the right/upshift paddle today.
Removed the air bag and de-pinned the cruise control switch leaving just the horn wire and mounted the paddle where I wanted it.
Put some sticky back urethane pad over the switch and screwed the horn contact/airbag mount back on and plugged the horm back into the clock spring.
Reinstalled airbag, which is harder now with the paddle in the way.
Eventualy the paddle wires will be run through the clock spring where the cruise wires came out of. The cruise will be reinstalled somewhere else later.
Removed the air bag and de-pinned the cruise control switch leaving just the horn wire and mounted the paddle where I wanted it.
Put some sticky back urethane pad over the switch and screwed the horn contact/airbag mount back on and plugged the horm back into the clock spring.
Reinstalled airbag, which is harder now with the paddle in the way.
Eventualy the paddle wires will be run through the clock spring where the cruise wires came out of. The cruise will be reinstalled somewhere else later.
Clownmeat
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turbodudey2
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Just a thought... if it was me, I'd consider integrating a few lines of code to provide a little protection. Such as not allowing a downshift if doing so with cause rpm to go above redline (or whatever rpm you're comfortable with). I realize this would add some complexity as you would need to bring in tach signal to your controller plus the timers and logic to make sense of it.
It could save you from some unpleasant surprises though, if you accidentally bump the switch (for whatever random reason) and all of a sudden you're at 9000rpm. Plus if you did go to the trouble to bring in tach signal then a whole world of other possibility would open up for adding nice features.
turbodudey2
New member
That makes sense.
I think my tendency is to do things the other way. I would add all the features I could think of right at the beginning, at the expense of possibly never getting it all done.
Your way is probably better.
I think my tendency is to do things the other way. I would add all the features I could think of right at the beginning, at the expense of possibly never getting it all done.
Your way is probably better.
Hepar
New member
Colors I chose for the LED's in the gear indicator that will probably go somewhere on top of the steering column or inside the cluster somewhere.
I realized my original question still stands. Sorry, this is the first auto I've ever had to deal with. Our transmissions are 4 gears with an OD gear. From the pic of the lights you have and the labels, it looks like you're going to have a manual override for the auto lever, thus being able to paddle shift between 1, 2, auto and OD. Is that correct? If so, then paddle shifting it into D would give you 3rd and 4th. Or is the pic just to give an idea of the colors?
Not sure if that makes any sense at all.
Clownmeat
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The trans has 4 gears with a torque converter lockup, that's it. Not 4 gears plus overdrive. All 4 gears will be shifted manually, just imagine you have a 4speed stick shift. So if you paddled up to D/green you would be in 3rd gear until you shifted out of it.
So I should of labeled those, 1, 2, 3, 4 to make it simpler.
Hepar
New member
Thanks for the explanation. The reason I asked was I never paid attention to the shifting before and I took notice the other day and saw that from a standing start with OD off, there were 4 shift points.
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