Clutch Replacement 1996 SR5 4x4

FuddRunner

New member
Just a quick hello and some details concerning my recent clutch replacement. Mostly wanted to give any potential first time DIY guys/gals some insight about what to expect. Things you should seriously consider before attempting this moderate repair yourself include, (experience, technical information available, tools available, lifts/jacks available, time constraints,) and any friends/family that can assist you along the way. Ultimately anything that goes right/wrong is your accountability. This thread should only be regarded for informational purposes.
I started out with all OEM replacement parts, mostly because my clock was at 220,280 miles and decided OEM was good enough to stay with. Parts included clutch disk, spring plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and rear main seal. Things to consider yourself before parts purchase would be intended use and longevity expectations. I don't use my truck for anything radical so anything more aggressive was overkill. Also consider your total work boundary. You'll have to disturb the exhaust system to complete this repair. I failed to account for this and will have to replace the first exhaust gasket after the cat when next I find the chance.
I'll not take you through the step by step process, but my highlights for your consideration would be to inspect all removed components entirely. For me this included both front and rear drive shafts for balance weights and u-joint play. The transmission itself (vac line, gaskets, shift tower boots, input shaft seal ect). I had my flywheel machined, regardless of condition as its generally just sound practice. Some would choose not to and have had no issues. I soaked every bolt removed in brake clean and wire wheeled them clean. I applied Locktite to all critical fasteners and new lock washers to everything that had one. I cleaned and applied grease to the shift fork, input shaft, and release bearing. High temp grease was recommended so I used Lucas Red and Tacky. It has the highest drop point (540 degrees), and exceeds industry standards for wheel bearings and chassis.
I've been a technician 15 years. I work exclusively on Semi Truck and Trailers these days. I had a lift and transmission jack available, and a tool box loaded with all the tools you could imagine. Wobble impacts were a time and space saver. If anyone has any questions just message me. I look forward to learning from the people in this community/boards and hopefully will provide some knowledge and insight to those who'd have it.

V.r,
Fudd :lookout:
 
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Good post, and I did mine pretty much the same in September. But in my garage on jackstands with HarborFreight tranny jack. Pretty much a ball-buster but I got her done. I did reuse my lock washers but they looked/felt fine. I had to replace my flywheel, some slight cracking was going on. EXCEPT: I did not need to touch my exhaust system except to unhook the rubber hanger. I believe this is because the Cali. type two-cat exhaust has different brackets. Yours was obviously a one-cat Federal.

I also recommend doing the rear main seal while you are in there if you have 150k or more. Mine was weeping slightly when I got in there so I was glad I had planned to do it in advance. Cheap and adds maybe 20 minutes to the job.
 
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