thebwlife
Senior Member
Ok I have a few questions about coilovers.
First my end goal is to run 285/70/17 BFG T/A KO’s with improved brake dive and body roll. This thing rolls and bounces pretty bad on any type of non-perfect concrete. I do 80/20 street/off-road with my off-road being rough dirt roads and fire roads? Most of my off-road involves driving in really bad weather to a ski slope.
I plan on piecing together my own lift kit as follows:
Some non-reserve coilover for the front - Radflo 2.0's
SAW rear 1.5” springs
Bilstein 5100 rear shocks – these should be fine for my type of off-roading not a whole lot of desert racing to be done in Oklahoma.
I really like the idea of running the toytec coilovers because they are basic and simple. You can pick up a Bilstein 5100 at any Autozone, O’Reillys’s, Advance Auto within the day. This makes the just-in-case something goes bad an easy fix. But some of the negatives is your paying a premium coilover price for a Bilstein 5100 with a fancy coilover bucket. I’m not really excited about having to put sway-bar relocation brackets and now some kind of radiator drop bracket on.
I know with all the 2.5 coilovers (Icon, Radflo, Sway-a-Way) you have to use the sway-bar relocation brackets, but do you have to do the radiator brace brackets too?
I’m leaning toward the Radflo 2.0’s because I really have a mostly stock truck and it will never have a bumper and a winch on it, maybe a budbuilt hidden winch later on and the 2.0’s should be fine, but not anytime soon. I was told from overland warehouse (before they ended business) that I wouldn’t need the sway-bar relocation brackets with the 2.0 fronts.
So my couple questions are do you have to do the radiator brace brackets on all coilovers? And how often would a Radflo really need to be rebuilt?
I know UCA are recommended but is it a true necessity for coilovers set at 2.5” of lift?
First my end goal is to run 285/70/17 BFG T/A KO’s with improved brake dive and body roll. This thing rolls and bounces pretty bad on any type of non-perfect concrete. I do 80/20 street/off-road with my off-road being rough dirt roads and fire roads? Most of my off-road involves driving in really bad weather to a ski slope.
I plan on piecing together my own lift kit as follows:
Some non-reserve coilover for the front - Radflo 2.0's
SAW rear 1.5” springs
Bilstein 5100 rear shocks – these should be fine for my type of off-roading not a whole lot of desert racing to be done in Oklahoma.
I really like the idea of running the toytec coilovers because they are basic and simple. You can pick up a Bilstein 5100 at any Autozone, O’Reillys’s, Advance Auto within the day. This makes the just-in-case something goes bad an easy fix. But some of the negatives is your paying a premium coilover price for a Bilstein 5100 with a fancy coilover bucket. I’m not really excited about having to put sway-bar relocation brackets and now some kind of radiator drop bracket on.
I know with all the 2.5 coilovers (Icon, Radflo, Sway-a-Way) you have to use the sway-bar relocation brackets, but do you have to do the radiator brace brackets too?
I’m leaning toward the Radflo 2.0’s because I really have a mostly stock truck and it will never have a bumper and a winch on it, maybe a budbuilt hidden winch later on and the 2.0’s should be fine, but not anytime soon. I was told from overland warehouse (before they ended business) that I wouldn’t need the sway-bar relocation brackets with the 2.0 fronts.
So my couple questions are do you have to do the radiator brace brackets on all coilovers? And how often would a Radflo really need to be rebuilt?
I know UCA are recommended but is it a true necessity for coilovers set at 2.5” of lift?
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