Consolidated Lighting Info Thread

[trd tim]

Lol [emoji23] hey if you lived near Irmo SC I'd take ya up on it ! Trust me, i mean not to annoy or waste anyone's time.... No, I didn't test other wires ... I'm really not familiar with DC electric, some of my AC knowledge crosses over, some also only further confuses. I have a regular multimeter and prolly need some needle adapters for the leads as the current leads are too fat to make contact on back of the plug for switches. I could trace these back but was hoping for someone on here who possibly ran into this situation before and could simplify this, looks like I'm headed into undocumented territory, so be it. My fear is possibly I ordered the switch with wrong configuration. What I don't understand is , ( on the switch side ) how does just 2 wires control 2 lighted areas on my switch ... only thing I can think of is if 1 of the lights ( let's say green ) is internally wired normally open and the other light ( red ) is wired normally closed , or a late break / early make style contact ? I have no clue.


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[TRUSTYAXE]

I get that the light bar works. There are 2 indicators on that switch, one that comes on with your headlights, that one works. The other one comes on when the switch is actuated or in the ON position, that one is always on. That is because that side of the switch is wired to constant 12v rather than getting 12v at the same time the relay coil does.

You are constantly feeding the side of the switch contacts that light up the switch ON indicator.

Based on your last diagram, swap blue and red on the relay. When they are disconnected you can verify the switch on indicator light will be off.

Bump I think we posted at the same time.

 

[Saker]

On the switch:
The lower led that indicates the writing "Bumper Lights", should be lit only when the headlight circuit is energized.
The upper portion of the switch with the etched lights, should only light when the switch has been depressed and the auxiliary lights should then come on.

You can use a paper clip straightend out to stick into the back of the terminals without having to purchase any other prongs.

You are either overthinking this or underthinking this!

It is not that complicated.

If you find all of your circuits on the OEM connections are what they are supposed to be, and you are positive your AOB Switch connections are true, it is possible you have a faulty AOB Switch.

:yield:

 

[trd tim]

I get that the light bar works. There are 2 indicators on that switch, one that comes on with your headlights, that one works. The other one comes on when the switch is actuated or in the ON position, that one is always on. That is because that side of the switch is wired to constant 12v rather than getting 12v at the same time the relay coil does.



You are constantly feeding the side of the switch contacts that light up the switch ON indicator.



Based on your last diagram, swap blue and red on the relay. When they are disconnected you can verify the switch on indicator light will be off.

I'll give that a try in the morning !


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[TRUSTYAXE]

I'll give that a try in the morning !


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You can just swap the wires on the switch if it's easier....just leave the two wires that are tapped into your factory harness alone.

:snacker:

 

[trd tim]

You can just swap the wires on the switch if it's easier....just leave the two wires that are tapped into your factory harness alone.



:snacker:

Woke up to my daughters tire flat so having to deal with that first. Always something [emoji23]


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[Saker]

[MENTION=136811]trd tim[/MENTION],

Soooooooooooooooooooooo,

What's the story here?
Did you get it straightened out?

Millions are waiting!

 

[trd tim]

Been on the road ( not in my 4R ) for work up to xmas, and now again, should be able to finally get to it this weekend !!


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[NutZac]

Ok so I just went through the same thing as TRD Tim. I installed my light bar with their harness and the AOB switch. I DIDNT tap into the cars harness for dimmable light (yet) because I don't like T-Taps and I want to figure a different way to illuminate. But, when hooking up the light like th AOB directions say to I was constantly illuminated no matter the status of the car. On off lights on or off didn't matter. I ended up switching the RED & GREEN wires to the switch and voila! It worked. The red went to the "trigger" to the LED bar and the green went to the 12V from the relay. The black went to the harness also which was grounded where the fuse block grounds out on the driver side fender. I will try to think of a way to illuminate the switch, maybe not dimmable and use an add a fuse. Best of luck. If you need anything let me know and I can take some pictures or draw one for you.


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[bofa]

because I don't like T-Taps

I feel the same way. Check out posi-taps.

 

[2chains]

Ok so I just went through the same thing as TRD Tim. I installed my light bar with their harness and the AOB switch. I DIDNT tap into the cars harness for dimmable light (yet) because I don't like T-Taps and I want to figure a different way to illuminate. But, when hooking up the light like th AOB directions say to I was constantly illuminated no matter the status of the car. On off lights on or off didn't matter. I ended up switching the RED & GREEN wires to the switch and voila! It worked. The red went to the "trigger" to the LED bar and the green went to the 12V from the relay. The black went to the harness also which was grounded where the fuse block grounds out on the driver side fender. I will try to think of a way to illuminate the switch, maybe not dimmable and use an add a fuse. Best of luck. If you need anything let me know and I can take some pictures or draw one for you.


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Interesting update. Diagram or pic would be great. It will help others with similar issues.

 

[NutZac]

Interesting update. Diagram or pic would be great. It will help others with similar issues.

OK, so this isn't my best work, but Im doing this at the same time as getting ready to wire up times square for the new years TV Broadcast. So I'm a little tired and unfocused. Ill correct anything I messed up ASAP. But here is what I have as of now. Happy New Year everyone!

 

[trd tim]

You can just swap the wires on the switch if it's easier....just leave the two wires that are tapped into your factory harness alone.



:snacker:

You rock .. works like a charm !



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[trd tim]

I swapped the wires like TRUSTYAXE suggested and works as it should !! Thanks guys !! I should probably draw it up as I have it and post.


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[Saker]

I swapped the wires like TRUSTYAXE suggested and works as it should !! Thanks guys !! I should probably draw it up as I have it and post.

If you draw it up, please list the components you used in your diagram so it is not confused with conventional wiring harnesses. For some reason, that Rigid harness and their relay has caused minor grief to installers when using an AOB switch instead of the switch supplied from Rigid.

Glad [MENTION=117927]TRUSTYAXE[/MENTION] got you headed in the correct direction! :drum:

 

[TRUSTYAXE]

You rock .. works like a charm !



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[MENTION=103267]Saker[/MENTION]

Group effort, and mutually beneficial. I have a fridge switch on order from AOB and a few other parts from amazon on the way to add a dedicated circuit for my new dometic CFX-28.

 

[mgproudfit]

Ok, honest answer from you guys who had gone with the [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] HID kit...

Im toying between the XD Extreme 4300k Phillips HID kit from XD or going with a true HID projector retrofit. My question is, does the cost/installation benefits of the XD HID kit outweigh the "correct" way to go HID (i.e., via a true HID projector swap)?

I would much prefer to drop the $150-200 on the XD kit IF it truly is a great kit both for me (inside the car) as well as inoffensive to oncoming traffic. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[Saker]

Ok, honest answer from you guys who had gone with the [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] HID kit...

Im toying between the XD Extreme 4300k Phillips HID kit from XD or going with a true HID projector retrofit. My question is, does the cost/installation benefits of the XD HID kit outweigh the "correct" way to go HID (i.e., via a true HID projector swap)?

I would much prefer to drop the $150-200 on the XD kit IF it truly is a great kit both for me (inside the car) as well as inoffensive to oncoming traffic. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Matt

You will get many different answers on this.

You will get much better performance from a "true retrofit" with HID projectors than placing any HID in in a halogen projector. Plain and simple!

 

[mgproudfit]

I understand that, and expect it, TBH. However, my question is more in regards to cost/benefit ratio. If the performance of the XD HID kit won't burn the retinas of oncoming traffic (assuming they're aimed well, of course) then that, to me, seems to be an acceptable alternative to doing a "true" retrofit and is monumentally cheaper to boot.

 

[Saker]

I understand that, and expect it, TBH. However, my question is more in regards to cost/benefit ratio. If the performance of the XD HID kit won't burn the retinas of oncoming traffic (assuming they're aimed well, of course) then that, to me, seems to be an acceptable alternative to doing a "true" retrofit and is monumentally cheaper to boot.

Ok.
I have done exactly that with a TRS 50W 5500K kit.
Aimed properly as not to blind on comers and the cost to benefits ratios are awesome!

DDM Tuning Saber LED's in the Hi Beams slots! :reddance: