Crankshaft Pulley Removal HELP

[sambishop]

1999 SR5 3.4
245,000

Before anyone says anything about the bolt itself, I know how to get that off. My problem lies with the pulley itself.
I've doused it with PB Blaster, tapped it with hammers, and used crowbars to try and pry it.

Here's the story:

I was doing a timing belt job and I get to where I need to remove the crankshaft pulley and this sucker is just not budging with anything I do it. I'm aware you don't normally need a pulley puller to take this guy off but that's where I was at. I started to install a harmonic balancer remover and realized that the jerk off who did the timing belt before me stripped the threading in one of the holes on the pulley. :mad2::Cry:

Is it possible to re-thread that hole? (I know it takes a 8x1.25 bolt normally)
Is it possible to remove this pulley with the puller with only 1 bolt in?

ANY AND ALL ADVICE IS APPRECIATED.

 

[sjwelna]

Either re-tap the hole on the pulley or go get/rent a 3-jaw puller from a parts store.

 

[jeremyc74]

I guess I got lucky because mine came off without a puller, but the 3 jaw suggestion should work. You can probably rent one from Autozone if you have one close by.

 

[TheDurk]

Problem with a jaw puller is that the pulley is a harmonic balancer, sort of a pulley sandwich, with a steel core (that the bolt holes go into, then the rubber meat part, then the pulley. A light pull is ok, if that is all it needs, but if you really have to crank down on it, you will just separate the halves of the sandwich and ruin your expensive H/B.

That is why the bolt puller is preferred. I would NOT use a jaw puller unless you are sure it engages the core, and not just the pulley..

I just took a look at mine. From the front, looking at the pulley, I can feel the hole on the back when it is at about two o'clock. There is enough room to get a nut on there. I would either drill out the hole and use a longer M8 and thread a nut on the back, or go a size down, possibly SAE, and do the same thing without drilling.(I'm assuming you can't just pass the M8 all the way through without drilling.)

Are you sure the whole thread is stripped? They don't start until deep in the hole because the front part is through the pulley and rubber parts of the sandwich. The threads are only way in the back in the core. Maybe you just need a longer bolt. I just wonder how the PO could have stripped the whole thread if he was completely threaded in. Maybe his bolt was too short and he left some behind, maybe enough to do the job.

 

[sjwelna]

Problem with a jaw puller is that the pulley is a harmonic balancer, sort of a pulley sandwich, with a steel core (that the bolt holes go into, then the rubber meat part, then the pulley. A light pull is ok, if that is all it needs, but if you really have to crank down on it, you will just separate the halves of the sandwich and ruin your expensive H/B.

This is true. That being said I've used jaw pullers on harmonic balancers in the past without issue. You could always put the puller on, tighten it down a bit and if it doesn't seem to be budging, put a piece of wood on the edge of the pulley and give it a good whack with a mallet to see if you can't pop it loose. Keep hosing the crank snout down with PB blaster, it will help free it up. The nut idea on the backside of the pulley is a good idea too, but getting a drill down in there to bore out the pulley could be a big PITA too though.

 

[LittleCaesar]

I have used a 3 jaw puller (7 ton) three or four times on other cars to remove a HB. Not ideal, but you should be fine. A mixture of ATF/acetone should help if needed.

Got access to oxy/ace?

Saw a guy use a 7 inch grinder on a HB once to remove it from the crankshaft.