Crazydubman's 97 limited runner build

[crazydubman]

Hey matt. Yes i just replaced the inner boots. The cv's were completely fine.

 

[MATTSSSV2004]

Hey matt. Yes i just replaced the inner boots. The cv's were completely fine.

If you dont mind me asking what kinda boots should I run? Thicker ones but your $.02 ?

 

[crazydubman]

I just went to the local parts house and picked up the cheapest replacement boots i could. I personally wouldn't spend a ton on them as they are likely to tear again if you wheel alot. Just make sure when you are installing the new ones that they are locked down where they are supposed to be or just past the little groove. The biggest reason for them failing is when the ribs rub together. Keep that from happening and they should last a while.

 

[crazydubman]

I was finally able to get the wheel spacers pulled off the 06 to test fit them on the 97 for the upcoming adapters if I keep the beadlocks. I will be plating over the inside of the bumpstop spacer to keep it rigid but I really think it would be more for looks than needed strength.

The spacers are 1.25" and the wheels are 4.5 BS

The beadlocks are a 4" BS and the adapters would be 1 3/8" which would put it roughly 5/8" farther out than this.

More than likely a firewall tub will be needed but I think for now I should be ok. We will see how it works out in the front next weekend in Sonora.

The rears should be ok because of how much the bump stops are extended. They should keep the tires out of the fenders on vertical and articulated stuff.

 

[crazydubman]

Rear links are getting built today at Any7Offroad. Will be picking them up after work. Hoping to get them installed early this week before the trip to Bear Valley.

 

[crazydubman]

Finally was able to get the lower links installed. It was a stuggle with the clearances of the bushings but I made it work. Uppers will be getting installed soon. I have a feeling that I may need to cut down some of the width on the bushings for the uppers but won't know till I get in there.

quick run down of parts used.
- RuffStuff 7/8 x 3/4 heims with 5/8" misalignment spacers and 1" tube ID hex
7/8 x 3/4 Rod End Set - RuffStuff Specialties

- RuffStuff .250 wall Poly bushings with zerk fittings and 9/16 sleeve ID
Bushed DOM Sleeve - RuffStuff Specialties

- 1.5 x .250 wall DOM tubing

You may also be able to see that I have some weld washers installed as well. Those will be welded in soon so there is some extra thickness for the mounting holes so they don't start to oval out.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...e=ruffstuff&Product_Code=WWASH&Category_Code=

It was dark but here is a quick picture.

Looking forward to trying them out this weekend. :becky:

 

[rickashay]

Progress looks great Todd! I haven't been commenting a lot, but rest assured, Ive been in the shadows drooling over all the mods and progress.:spy:

Did I read somewhere that your going to MOAB or something soon?! Either way, stoked to see some wheeling pics!

 

[crazydubman]

Hey there Rick,

I'm heading up to the Sierra's this weekend. No mention of MOAB here.

I will for sure be getting lots of pictures of mine and Stockwell's runners in the rocks and mud.

I swear I have been having withdrawls from wheelin since new years.... Finally glad the suspension is sorted out and I can just get back to enjoying the rig. Only nagging thing left so far is the upper links which I will save for a Saturday morning sometime in the near future. That and firewall tubbing which im a little nervous about this weekend with the spacers up front. Should be livable but we shall see. :becky:

 

[rickashay]

Hey there Rick,

I'm heading up to the Sierra's this weekend. No mention of MOAB here.

Ahhh sorry, the Seirra's.... I knew I had read something epic was in order.

 

[crazydubman]

No worries. It should be a lot of fun and a good test for the new suspension. :eyebrows:

 

[Stockwell45]

The trail is open, we are good to go! Gonna be a fun weekend for sure. And I hope you don't mind if I drool over your suspension while your here

 

[crazydubman]

Is that the tight trail you sent a picture of? are there technical spots or mainly fireroad type?

 

[Stockwell45]

The whole thing is pretty technical. It's really tight, but there are huge ruts and water bars to overcome so it's gonna be a bit of a challenge. I've gone down the trail a few times, but never up it. It's a bit slick so that will make it tougher too. And there are some side stuff we can run off of that, like little hill climbs here and there. The pic I sent you was pretty much the top of the mountain, it just drops straight down from there and follows a few switchbacks. It's not too long, maybe a little over a mile but it's a fun little trail.

Hopefully we find out the quarry is open too. I was thinking we could take fire roads from the beginning of Parrot's Ferry Rd all the way to columbia to at least get off the pavement a bit.

 

[smkd13]

UPDATE:

I finally was able to get my rear bump stops installed. I should be able to get pictures with the wheel off this weekend but this will have to do for now.

The bump stop is a Daystar progressive competition one. Its 4.5" tall and has progressive compression. I think the steel spacer is 2.5" tall as well.

It should do the trick. It should hit about 1.5" before the shock starts to compress its bump isolator on vertical compression. I think it was about 2" on the articulated stuff.

With a static articulated compression with no weight in the back of the runner, it stopped compressing with about 1/4" shaft showing on top of the shock bump stop. When its loaded up on the trail it should be perfect for what it needs to be.

Looking forward to trying it out in the sierra's next weekend with Stockwell45.

With any luck I should be getting the rear lower links installed next week before I head out.

Stay tuned. :cheers:

By the way love the build. Super sick and nice to see SAWs. My buddy has ran them for about three years now and still goin strong but just up for a rebuild. Lol

My question is about the steel spacer you used. Where did you get that at or was it a fab job. I am needing bumps stops soon and I am running ToyTec superflex could in the rear.

Obviously need bumps lol I am still playing with everything to get it to sit right.

Another question for you though, well two actually: How much space do you have between the knuckle and coil at full droop with the camburgs? I am running TT boss coilovers btw. I am honestly wishing I got a set of SAWs seems beefier lol

Second question is are you using the stock bolt size for you links? I recent made a PH bar and made the stock holes into a 5/8" hole. One of the next things on my list is adjustable upper and lower links. I used the same hiems as u 3/4" 3/4-16 w/ 1.5" .25 DOM and 5/8" misalignment spacers that equaled 2" across trimmed to 1 3/4".

Sorry for the long reply

 

[crazydubman]

The whole thing is pretty technical. It's really tight, but there are huge ruts and water bars to overcome so it's gonna be a bit of a challenge. I've gone down the trail a few times, but never up it. It's a bit slick so that will make it tougher too. And there are some side stuff we can run off of that, like little hill climbs here and there. The pic I sent you was pretty much the top of the mountain, it just drops straight down from there and follows a few switchbacks. It's not too long, maybe a little over a mile but it's a fun little trail.

Hopefully we find out the quarry is open too. I was thinking we could take fire roads from the beginning of Parrot's Ferry Rd all the way to columbia to at least get off the pavement a bit.

Sounds good man. Glad you were able to find out that the quarry is open too :hungry: Can't wait to go play somewhere new.

 

[crazydubman]

By the way love the build. Super sick and nice to see SAWs. My buddy has ran them for about three years now and still goin strong but just up for a rebuild. Lol

My question is about the steel spacer you used. Where did you get that at or was it a fab job. I am needing bumps stops soon and I am running ToyTec superflex could in the rear.

Obviously need bumps lol I am still playing with everything to get it to sit right.

Another question for you though, well two actually: How much space do you have between the knuckle and coil at full droop with the camburgs? I am running TT boss coilovers btw. I am honestly wishing I got a set of SAWs seems beefier lol

Second question is are you using the stock bolt size for you links? I recent made a PH bar and made the stock holes into a 5/8" hole. One of the next things on my list is adjustable upper and lower links. I used the same hiems as u 3/4" 3/4-16 w/ 1.5" .25 DOM and 5/8" misalignment spacers that equaled 2" across trimmed to 1 3/4".

Sorry for the long reply

The steel spacer is just a piece of 4"x2.5" square tubing cut to size. With the amount of drop I had with the new bumpstops, I offset the center mounting hole 1/2". If you run the factory bump, you could probably get away with a 1/4" offset to center it back up with the arch of the axle rotation.

The coils to spindle clearance at full droop is about 1/2" i think with the 2.5" SAW's. mine are the extended travel so that clearance will vary slightly with a 2.0 coil and standard travel.

The heims for my links are 7/8 x 3/4". I went that route because it was a $10 dollar difference per set to go with the larger ones that about substancially stronger and have more material. The 3/4 x 3/4 heims will be fine on the panhard though.

My link bolts are 5/8" on the heim side and 9/16" on the bushing end. I went with 4.5" bolts because I will be welding in weld washers which will add just under 1/2" more to the total width. You can get away with 4" bolts for the links though if you just use a washer on each side.

Hope that all made sense.

 

[smkd13]

The steel spacer is just a piece of 4"x2.5" square tubing cut to size. With the amount of drop I had with the new bumpstops, I offset the center mounting hole 1/2". If you run the factory bump, you could probably get away with a 1/4" offset to center it back up with the arch of the axle rotation.

The coils to spindle clearance at full droop is about 1/2" i think with the 2.5" SAW's. mine are the extended travel so that clearance will vary slightly with a 2.0 coil and standard travel.

The heims for my links are 7/8 x 3/4". I went that route because it was a $10 dollar difference per set to go with the larger ones that about substancially stronger and have more material. The 3/4 x 3/4 heims will be fine on the panhard though.

My link bolts are 5/8" on the heim side and 9/16" on the bushing end. I went with 4.5" bolts because I will be welding in weld washers which will add just under 1/2" more to the total width. You can get away with 4" bolts for the links though if you just use a washer on each side.

Hope that all made sense.

yep it all made sense to me. looks like i will be going to metal mart soon.

the reason that i ask about the knuckle is because at full droop mine touch and that is with some trimming and rounding. basically is ti the same thickness all the way around now. I think i will be definitely getting some camburgs here soon but for now i am just going to situate the spring so that it doesnt contact it at full droop.

I will be doing the weld washer's on mine as well. (yes i stole the idea from you and really agree with it.) I wont be adding them to the panhard though cause well the holes are pretty damn tight anyway. I am all for beef though so i will just follow your lead and get the weld washers.

thanks for all the input and definitely excited to see the finished pictures!!

 

[crazydubman]

with the additional caster built into the arms, the spindle mount is actually farther back behind the coilover centerline unlike the factory arms. there would be no chance for it to make contact. the uniball would hit its limit before the spindle would make contact with the coils.

The weld washers may or may not be needed with the use of poly bushings on one end but I figured i would rather be safe than to have to deal with repairs later.

 

[smkd13]

with the additional caster built into the arms, the spindle mount is actually farther back behind the coilover centerline unlike the factory arms. there would be no chance for it to make contact. the uniball would hit its limit before the spindle would make contact with the coils.

The weld washers may or may not be needed with the use of poly bushings on one end but I figured i would rather be safe than to have to deal with repairs later.

Hmmm that would make sense for why you have distance on yours. I am more than likely going to have to go with LR uca's as I get snow, and salt here and apparently uniballs don't like salt lol I would prefer uniballs but I DD my rig lol got anymore pics of your lowers?

I would actually think that the poly bushings would need them because they exert more stress because they have less tolerance for articulation. Just my thought process though. You have the same mindset as me. Overbuild everything ball to the wall lol

 

[crazydubman]

The poly bushing will deflect way easier than a steel bracket or link. The heim is a solid mount and there is no deflection. The shock load is what wallows out the holes not really the articulation. You have to remember the factory links have rubber on both ends and the mounts are perfectly fine. The heim on one end will more than make up for the articulation needed for a link.