Curse you LCA bushings!!!

Scotty_h

Scotty_h

New member
I'm to the point... I'm about it abandon this effort. :ohwell:

I worked for about 4 hours yesterday breaking down my front suspension to install new OEM balljoints and some new LR balljoints along with some poly bushings.



Got it tore down with a hanging LCA in no time, but have been BATTLING the sleeve that connects the two cam lobes. I've heated, hammered, pressed and cursed at these d#*@, piece of rusty garbage bull s*%$, dog licking, monkey turd, no good, sorry sack of corrosion, Hallellujah and holy s#$% !.. Where's the Tylenol?





It's a metal sleeve in a metal sleeve at this point right? I have the two lobes pryed off the sleeve so that there is slide motion, but can't pull the arm from the truck. :moping: Any hail Mary's that anyone has for me before I put my new balljoints on with the old bushings? :pray: (If I've not destroyed this sleeve)
 
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Maybe try wearing shoes rather than sandals. I've always had good luck when wear shoes, and no luck at all when working in sandals. :lol:

This thread gives some information, but the process is a royal PITA. Another with some good diagrams in it. I'm sure someone else will have some info. Chances are the sleeves are going to be pretty seized up at this point.
 
I just looked at my build pics and didn't find one but I'm thinking it was one cam with a tube, a second cam without a tube and a bolt. If that makes sense.
 
I have done a few of these.

THE way is to...
Get and air chisel
use the flat tip
use the tip parallel with the tube
chisel out the ends of the tube
break off little pieces till you can slide the LCA out
replace the bushing
 
MStudt said:
This[/URL] thread gives some information, but the process is a royal PITA. Another with some good diagrams in it. I'm sure someone else will have some info. Chances are the sleeves are going to be pretty seized up at this point.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I looked at these threads. It seems that everyone says, "Yeah the sleeves are real PITA's but I got 'em..." I even heard of some being cut out. But the methodology of how escapes me.... maybe the ones I'm working on need to be cut. Thanks for the sketch. But the dawing doesnt expand the bushing which is where I was thinking there was to be extra hardware in. I'm rocking the shoes for better luck today... :tongue1:

txbonds said:
Yes, I was meaning for each bushing those were the parts I had as referenced in the drawing. :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the quick reference. I think the fact that these are siezed make it irrelevant as to what it is seized in... but I was asking since all my gripes lead me to no real question other than.. "Can anyone help me before I throw in the towel?"

I'm leaning towards patching it together and running it to the shop. I want this done, but dang... I can't spend another 4 hours on it and not get anywhere AND need to order all cam lobes and sleeves.
 
Gerdo said:
I have done a few of these.

THE way is to...
Get and air chisel
use the flat tip
use the tip parallel with the tube
chisel out the ends of the tube
break off little pieces till you can slide the LCA out
replace the bushing
Click to expand...

Dang, this means all new hardware. I am on board with the idea, but need my truck before I can get all these parts in... This is the same as cutting them out. Okay.... I can process this.

So, I need to put another order in with PartsBarn and realize that all LCA guts need to go back in as new. That what it sounds like to you?
 
You will be replacing the cam sleeves and the bushings.

Just keep chipping away the ends of the tubes with that air chisel.

When the new cam tubes go in, I coat them with anti-seize to keep this from happening again.
 
Also went ahead and ordered the whiteline bushings with metal internals installed. Energy Suspension bushing up for grabs $50 shipped. PM me,
 
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I just recently ran into this issue and had it fixed at the dealer... I know the Assistant Shop manager well so I got about Half off the total job... My bushings and cam sleeves were completely seized and broken up contributing to a horrible toe in. They ended up cutting the control arms out and replacing them all together. 2 of the 4 bushings were still seized shut to the control arms. I know its not cost effective to buy new ones but it beats the effort of pressing them out, especially if it's physically impossible.

While the truck was being torn up, i had the tie rods, Ball Joints (had 110k on them) and a cv boot replaced. Im still getting used to the nice tight steering.
 
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Over the past year I've been doing a lot of work on the entire truck which includes a new drivetrain from the engine to the wheel bearings. I haven't had any issues with corrosion just yet except for some on the steering rack fittings. (I can say that now without summoning a curse since there is really nothing left underneath that hasnt been messed with)

It's amazing though since this vehicle is 15 years old and has 305K on the body. I know these bushings have never been apart. Honestly I've been due for a cutting project. :behindsofa: In all fairness..
 
I surrendered to the will of the 4.5" angle grinder and cut them out. Even that was challenging though, had to take the control arms off piece by piece first just to get close enough to the cam sleeves with my grinder. Then, I had to clamp the cam sleeves in place to keep them from jumping away from the grinder wheel as I cut. A brand new 4.5" grinder wheel was barely long enough to cut halfway through the cam sleeve, so I had to rotate, clamp and cut several times, changing out for new grinding wheels frequently.
 
1blink said:
I surrendered to the will of the 4.5" angle grinder and cut them out. Even that was challenging though, had to take the control arms off piece by piece first just to get close enough to the cam sleeves with my grinder. Then, I had to clamp the cam sleeves in place to keep them from jumping away from the grinder wheel as I cut. A brand new 4.5" grinder wheel was barely long enough to cut halfway through the cam sleeve, so I had to rotate, clamp and cut several times, changing out for new grinding wheels frequently.
Click to expand...

:twitch:
yikes,
 
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the best way i've seen around on the inter webs is to take a saw, put the blade through the whole and tighten up the saw again... just saw carefully and when you brake through stop..
saw through 1 or 2 sides. penetrate.....w/ penetrating oil, and THEN you can chisel it out easier.
 
Gosh...just another reason I'm glad I have a PNW truck. I did the lower control arm bushings two weeks ago and didn't encounter a single rusted or seized component. Not bad for a truck with 275k
 
infamousRNR said:
the best way i've seen around on the inter webs is to take a saw, put the blade through the whole and tighten up the saw again...
Click to expand...

I suppose you are talking about a hack saw blade... I'm thinking my dewalt sawzaw may have an opinion about this...:lightsaber:
 
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