Custom(ish) Extended Rear Sway Bar Links Write-Up
- Thread starter Nathana92
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Nyc-Runner
New member
So today i partially parked on a snow bank( no where else to park :heh
but then i heard a loud clunk from the passenger side rear, i checked and it turns out that the nut one of the washers and one of the bushings and sleeve was all gone off of the eye bolt! It didn't happen right then because none of it was anywhere to be found so it must of happened over time I don't know how long it was like that i'm just glad i caught it, i'm surprised though because i had it cranked down pretty good so i don't know how it could of come off like that? I checked the other one and everything was still good and tight. So i went to lowes and got a couple stainless steel locking washers and some loctight and also picked up some extra bushings and tightened it all back up so hopefully this won't happen again! Has anybody else experienced this?
but then i heard a loud clunk from the passenger side rear, i checked and it turns out that the nut one of the washers and one of the bushings and sleeve was all gone off of the eye bolt! It didn't happen right then because none of it was anywhere to be found so it must of happened over time I don't know how long it was like that i'm just glad i caught it, i'm surprised though because i had it cranked down pretty good so i don't know how it could of come off like that? I checked the other one and everything was still good and tight. So i went to lowes and got a couple stainless steel locking washers and some loctight and also picked up some extra bushings and tightened it all back up so hopefully this won't happen again! Has anybody else experienced this?OP, I wanted to thank you for posting detailed instructions including part numbers. I did this today after putting in a lift kit yesterday and for under $50, this is a great solution. Got all my parts at AutoZone and Lowes.
I noticed the part number of your eye bolt photo is cut off! So, here it is, in case anyone goes looking for it at Lowes. Keep in mind, I found the same 3/8 x 4.5 eye bolt at Home Depot, but the weight rating was only 160 lbs. Make sure you get galvanized or cast iron eye bolts with the 1200 lb weight rating!! Lowes had them.
Also, my Lowes was out of 3/8 x 1/2 x 1.5 steel spacers. So I picked up 1/2 x 5/8 x 1.5 and just drilled out the hole on my swaybar to fit. I loctited the bolt after reading the post above ^^, so let's hope it holds up while wheeling!
I noticed the part number of your eye bolt photo is cut off! So, here it is, in case anyone goes looking for it at Lowes. Keep in mind, I found the same 3/8 x 4.5 eye bolt at Home Depot, but the weight rating was only 160 lbs. Make sure you get galvanized or cast iron eye bolts with the 1200 lb weight rating!! Lowes had them.
Also, my Lowes was out of 3/8 x 1/2 x 1.5 steel spacers. So I picked up 1/2 x 5/8 x 1.5 and just drilled out the hole on my swaybar to fit. I loctited the bolt after reading the post above ^^, so let's hope it holds up while wheeling!
montijo505
Senior Member
This took me forever!! First off just grind off the lower bolt on the stock link cuz it's a royal PIA to take off. Secondly, in the drivers side it's a ***** to get the grinder in the correct spot to grind that eyebolt down, and you have to do it because it doesn't fit if you don't. Melted a hole almost clean through my gas tank grinding that bolt. Anywho wasn't too too bad and pretty cheap!!
montijo505
Senior Member
Oh yeah almost forgot, I picked up 3/8x1/2x1" spacers instead of 1.5" and the didn't have to grind them at all. Press them from the inside flush with the outside and the bushings slide right over them on the inside part when you tighten the nut. This is how far they stick out when flush with the outside of the swaybar.
So I am thinking about making my own disconnectable sway bar links, using these
National Hardware 3/8 in. x 6 in. Galvanized Eye/Eye Turnbuckle-3270BC 3/8X6 FGD TBKL at The Home Depot
or
Lehigh 350 lb. 3/8 in. x 8 in. Stainless-Steel Eye-to-Eye Turnbuckle-7102S at The Home Depot
based on this
I should be able to fit that into the front no problem, but for the back, where I would require the 90* turn, I would use your eyebolt idea.
Thoughts?
National Hardware 3/8 in. x 6 in. Galvanized Eye/Eye Turnbuckle-3270BC 3/8X6 FGD TBKL at The Home Depot
or
Lehigh 350 lb. 3/8 in. x 8 in. Stainless-Steel Eye-to-Eye Turnbuckle-7102S at The Home Depot
based on this
I should be able to fit that into the front no problem, but for the back, where I would require the 90* turn, I would use your eyebolt idea.
Thoughts?
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KyleD
New member
Hey! Thanks for posting this!
I decided to make a set of these after installing my Bilsteins and 2.5 rear lift.
I decided to make a slight change to the build procedure. Instead of cutting the sleeves that go in the sway bar hole, I drilled out the bushings so that the sleeves can fit into them. I also used a 1" sleeve, instead of the 1.5" sleeve used by OP. This allowed me to drill 2/3rds of the way into each bushing, insert the sleeve, and end up with a ~1/8" gap between the two, which will be close up when the part is tightened.
Here's the final product. Looks great, and drops the sway bar just enough. Here's a few notes for future builders:
- Do a rough assembly, mark your cuts and make them away from the vehicle. On the driver's side, you're in gas tank territory. Sticking a grinder in there is both tight and dangerous.
- Used bushing lube when you put these together! It'll make them last longer and avoid any potential noise!
- If I were to make any changes, I would cut my eyebolt just a bit shorter than I did.
- On that note, I am in Canada. I was not able to find an eyebolt that was threaded anywhere near to the eye, so I had to bring them to a machine shop to have them threaded. They are high-grade bolts, and threading them with a simple tap and dye kit will not work.
Anyways, thank again for coming up with this! Hope my post helps some people in the future.
I decided to make a set of these after installing my Bilsteins and 2.5 rear lift.
I decided to make a slight change to the build procedure. Instead of cutting the sleeves that go in the sway bar hole, I drilled out the bushings so that the sleeves can fit into them. I also used a 1" sleeve, instead of the 1.5" sleeve used by OP. This allowed me to drill 2/3rds of the way into each bushing, insert the sleeve, and end up with a ~1/8" gap between the two, which will be close up when the part is tightened.
Here's the final product. Looks great, and drops the sway bar just enough. Here's a few notes for future builders:
- Do a rough assembly, mark your cuts and make them away from the vehicle. On the driver's side, you're in gas tank territory. Sticking a grinder in there is both tight and dangerous.
- Used bushing lube when you put these together! It'll make them last longer and avoid any potential noise!
- If I were to make any changes, I would cut my eyebolt just a bit shorter than I did.
- On that note, I am in Canada. I was not able to find an eyebolt that was threaded anywhere near to the eye, so I had to bring them to a machine shop to have them threaded. They are high-grade bolts, and threading them with a simple tap and dye kit will not work.
Anyways, thank again for coming up with this! Hope my post helps some people in the future.
AZ07Runner
Member
Thinking about doing this since I put on the lift, but...
I was reading on Energy Suspension's site that the two points which are connected by the link should be parallel on the front end of the vehicle and made me wonder if it should be the same on the rear. See diagram: energysuspension.com | Sway Bar End Links & Set Sizing Charts Can someone check their stock setup or remember if the frame bracket and sway bar are parallel on the rear?
If so, I think this setup could still be used, but modified with a longer vertical link bolt and matching spacer to push the end of the sway bar more towards the ground and be parallel. I can't tell from the posted pictures if extending this link would hit anything. I wouldn't think so as the stock one doesn't hit with stock height and it does the same thing during flex.
I'm guessing that having these two points parallel is beneficial (at least in the front?)? I don't know.
Thoughts?
I was reading on Energy Suspension's site that the two points which are connected by the link should be parallel on the front end of the vehicle and made me wonder if it should be the same on the rear. See diagram: energysuspension.com | Sway Bar End Links & Set Sizing Charts Can someone check their stock setup or remember if the frame bracket and sway bar are parallel on the rear?
If so, I think this setup could still be used, but modified with a longer vertical link bolt and matching spacer to push the end of the sway bar more towards the ground and be parallel. I can't tell from the posted pictures if extending this link would hit anything. I wouldn't think so as the stock one doesn't hit with stock height and it does the same thing during flex.
I'm guessing that having these two points parallel is beneficial (at least in the front?)? I don't know.
Thoughts?
snowboardwcu
Member
ok dumb question time. can this mod be done on a stock suspension? is the end link too long? i bought all this and realized later that this is meant for those with a lift.
anybody have insight into a proper length end link if this wont work?
anybody have insight into a proper length end link if this wont work?
snowboardwcu
Member
what i figured. i have some pretty harsh clunking going on over bumps and whatnot, was trying to replace swaybar bushings and these endlinks as a first attempt at mitigating. I"ll try some shorter ones, thanks.
B33R_Runner
New member
Be sure to use a stop nut, loctite, or as the OP suggested, double nut on the eye bolt. Don't just use the nut that comes with the eye bolt.
I rotated my tires the other day and noticed the nut, washer, and bushing were all missing from the end of the eye bolt on my driver's side. :shocked: Thankfully there was enough pressure or whatever to keep the sway bar from disconnecting.
I rotated my tires the other day and noticed the nut, washer, and bushing were all missing from the end of the eye bolt on my driver's side. :shocked: Thankfully there was enough pressure or whatever to keep the sway bar from disconnecting.
MrSeth
Member
Hey guys, just did this. I have 3" Fox 2.5 lift (medium constant weight springs in the back) and was getting annoyed at the heavy "forced" left to right body roll over bumps and such. Followed the OP's directions and couldn't be happier with the results! Nice to go from a discardable part to a serviceable one, that is MUCH more robust. I think my end length for the eyelet bolt was about 4". I ended up pressing the full length sleeve into one of the bushings, then using an oversized nut to pull the sleeve through the sway bar itself. Saved a few hundred bucks by doing this- super pleased!
Swaybar DIY by Seth Schueller, on Flickr
Swaybar DIY by Seth Schueller, on Flickr
Swaybar DIY by Seth Schueller, on Flickr
Swaybar DIY by Seth Schueller, on Flickr
Swaybar DIY by Seth Schueller, on FlickrSwaybar DIY by Seth Schueller, on FlickrSwaybar DIY by Seth Schueller, on FlickrSwaybar DIY by Seth Schueller, on FlickrSimilar threads
