CV Axle Trail Repair

[flyinbrick]

I was just thinking of CV axles - specifically what I would do if I broke one on the trail. I'd like to know how you guys do replacements or fixes. Here are some problems I foresee.

Removal:
1. How to break the axle nut free? With the wheel off, usually I have someone step on the brakes or wedge a 2x4 against the seat if by myself. Could I pull the hub cover, put the wheel back on, lower, parking brake, then count on tire traction to hold the nut while I break it loose with a breaker bar?
2. Would I need to bring a jack stand? If not, I don't see how I would pull the axle from the diff without being under with just a jack.

Emergency Fix:
Suppose the axle snapped between the two joints. Would it be possible to secure the outer axle portion (outer joint doesn't come apart) somehow and limp it slowly back to the closest town? I guess the biggest challenge would be to secure it but allow it to rotate (zip ties?). Or possibly attach the broken sides together and limp back in 2WD?

 

[Konkordmusk]

If the axle broke in the middle, what I would do is cut the boots and pull the shaft(s) out, leaving the outer joint connected as well as the inner joint inside the transfer case. This is assuming you don't have a spare.

You can also push a screwdriver into the vanes of the rotor and jam it against the brake caliper or carrier to get leverage for the nut.

 

[flyinbrick]

Would the axle shaft connected to the outer joint be flapping around hitting other parts as it rotates if not secured somehow?

 

[sn0wrunner]

1. How to break the axle nut free? With the wheel off, usually I have someone step on the brakes or wedge a 2x4 against the seat if by myself. Could I pull the hub cover, put the wheel back on, lower, parking brake, then count on tire traction to hold the nut while I break it loose with a breaker bar?

I suppose you could... if you had a deep socket or long enough extension. But that seems like a lot of work. I'd just have someone step on the brakes, or wedge something between the seat and peddle like you mentioned.

2. Would I need to bring a jack stand? If not, I don't see how I would pull the axle from the diff without being under with just a jack.

I usually just use a high lift on my sliders, so no need for a jack stand.

 

[flyinbrick]

I usually just use a high lift on my sliders, so no need for a jack stand.

Yeah, high lift and sliders (among other things) on my wish list. Trying to do things on the cheap for now.

 

[Doc2012]

All the crap you said.....

Another thing that makes changing out the CV VERY easy is Manual Hubs.

You have 5(?) 10mm bolts you need to take off, then (1) 12mm.

Take the (4) 14mm bolts off of the LBJ-spindle, and move it out of the way.

Then use a pickle fork, or a flat head screwdriver to get the CV out. Don't have to work about the correct torque on the 32mm nut.

That, and if you break a CV and don't have a spare, you can just plug the diff hole up so you're not leaking gear oil, and drive home, no worries.

 

[Socco]

I usually just use a high lift on my sliders, so no need for a jack stand.

:fear: You're not working on your truck when it's held by a Hi Lift are you? :fear:

 

[sn0wrunner]

Sure do. Many times actually. Probly changed out over 15 axles on the trail that way. It's always good to throw a tire or two under there just in case. Never had any issues.

 

[flyinbrick]

All the crap you said (LOL!)

Isn't the procedure for CV removal with ADD hubs pretty much the same? How is it different? 35mm axle nut, LBJ bolts, pry bar and hammer.

Actually, I would think that if I had manual hubs, I would simply unlock the hub and wire tie the dangling axle onto something (it's not rotating). If there is a piece sticking out of the tulip, just cut the boot and pull it out. But alas, this mod (along with many others) is not in the budget at the moment.

 

[flyinbrick]

Sure do. Many times actually. Probly changed out over 15 axles on the trail that way. It's always good to throw a tire or two under there just in case. Never had any issues.

Good solution! Sliders and high lift now higher up on the priority list.

 

[Doc2012]

Isn't the procedure for CV removal with ADD hubs pretty much the same? How is it different? 35mm axle nut, LBJ bolts, pry bar and hammer.

Actually, I would think that if I had manual hubs, I would simply unlock the hub and wire tie the dangling axle onto something (it's not rotating). If there is a piece sticking out of the tulip, just cut the boot and pull it out. But alas, this mod (along with many others) is not in the budget at the moment.

It is, but it isn't.

You don't have to worry about the massive torque on the CV bolt. You can break it loose with just a 3/8" wrench.

So, you don't have to worry about "tension" on the hub.

Just lift, take off the wheel, and go. I've changed out the CV's in less than 10 min.

 

[flyinbrick]

It is, but it isn't.
You don't have to worry about the massive torque on the CV bolt. You can break it loose with just a 3/8" wrench.

Ah, got it.

 

[JWaldz]

I think everyone who wheels and breaks cv's should put a cordless impact on the top of their purchase list. It makes everything a breeze. If I break on the trail I usually try to find the best flat surface, chalk the back tires, lift with hi-lift (or 2), throw tire underneath, and go to work.

 

[txbonds]

If I broke one I would just unlock the hub. :thumb3: Of course I guess I would need to finish my build and get it offroad first for it to matter. LOL