Cv axle!!

T

t4rwildlife

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. We'll I knew this would eventually happen but I didn't think it would happen this way. I have grease everywhere but no clunking or anything when driving, so I guess I should go ahead and replace the whole thing? Also i bought the 883 coils as I am getting a bumper soon so I have no weight up front and a lot of lift out of these could that be a reason for leaking boots? I have so much lift up front I feel like I assembled my coils wrong !!
 
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t4rwildlife said:
unagehy4.jpg
. We'll I knew this would eventually happen but I didn't think it would happen this way. I have grease everywhere but no clunking or anything when driving, so I guess I should go ahead and replace the whole thing? Also i bought the 883 coils as I am getting a bumper soon so I have no weight up front and a lot of lift out of these could that be a reason for leaking boots? I have so much lift up front I feel like I assembled my coils wrong !!
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When cv boots remain at a constant moving angle their life span is cut in half. I do believe there are Porsche cv shafts that have a much more resilient rubber boot and a stronger shaft. I'm sure once you get that bumper up front your sue soon will drop. Providing its a decently beefy plate bumper. If it's just a tube crawler style bumper, I doubt you'll notice much compression.
 
Having a lift in the front wares out cv axles faster unless you have a diff drop kit. And you could just replace the boots but you have to pull the axel out clean it add more greese and put a new boot on. So it just makes more sense to replace it unless its a brand new axle. Good luck!
 
Post some pics of the coil spring seat's if your concerned about the install. Its quite common for the boots to tear after a lift. I just went from HD billies to 5100 on second notch with my TRD's and my boots were torn within a week(155k). If you dont hear or feel anything a re boot should be ok. I just replaced mine and will reboot the old ones with 930's to have as spares.
 
Mine did the same thing. The boots just get old, dry out, split, and need to be replaced check out the last page of my build if you're getting the toyota boot kit.
 
Okay thanks guys, since you have to pull it out to re boot it do you not think it would be better to just go ahead and replace the whole axle?
 
t4rwildlife said:
Okay thanks guys, since you have to pull it out to re boot it do you not think it would be better to just go ahead and replace the whole axle?
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I would. If you reboot it the diff is gonna enough fluid you'll have to refill it which is a *****, if you just swap it you can do it fast enough hardly anything leaks out. Some people say the OEM CVs are stronger than what you find at NAPA or O'Reilly or whatever, which I find hard to believe, but that's something to keep in mind with getting rid of your OEM CVs. Food for thought.
 
Just reboot them. The cost savings are actually minimal and requires more effort, but the OEM CVs are stronger and better built.
 
Thanks for all the replys guys I went ahead and bought a whole new axle and replaced it this afternoon I was surprised how easy it actually was! The hardest part for me was getting the outside dust cover off haha.
 
t4rwildlife said:
Thanks for all the replys guys I went ahead and bought a whole new axle and replaced it this afternoon I was surprised how easy it actually was! The hardest part for me was getting the outside dust cover off haha.
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Just replaced my front CV axel's too. What axel's did you end up going with? OEM?
 
snivilous said:
I would. If you reboot it the diff is gonna enough fluid you'll have to refill it which is a *****, if you just swap it you can do it fast enough hardly anything leaks out. Some people say the OEM CVs are stronger than what you find at NAPA or O'Reilly or whatever, which I find hard to believe, but that's something to keep in mind with getting rid of your OEM CVs. Food for thought.
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I would say without question that there is a difference in OEM vs Napa vs everything else. I have a cv from autozone that binds at full droop where an OEM axle does not. [MENTION=85167]jmildoc[/MENTION] had the same problem too with his cheap cv. Next thing is if you look at the splines between a cheap one vs OEM/Napa, the sines are pressed on the cheap one and cut on he higher quality cv. Next bit is at the base of the splines to where the oil seal rides on the cv will be extremely sharp (90* angle where it enlarges) on the cheap one vs a beveled transition on the higher quality OEM. I think that leads to cv breakage on the diff stub side, which really sucks to extract with a drill and tap
 
NAPA Max Drive with life time warranty is the best purchase IMO. OEM are expensive and no warranty. If you wheel long enough you WILL break CVs. I put new NAPA Max Drives on mine 2 years ago with no issue and I have several hardcore wheeling trips on them including Rubicon and they held up fine. I kept my OEMs to use as a trail spare and if my NAPAs break, I take back to NAPA and get a new one.

Several other guys on here who wheel hard use them specifically for this reason. This is my $.02
 
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