CV Boots leaking, too cold in the garage... Couple Questions!!

Like I said, based on what I've read here it has happened enough to start plenty of threads. Probably seems higher on a forum full of enthusiats...

Exactly. People don't start threads to say that their boots aren't leaking. So take it with a grain of salt when you see an occasional thread about boots leaking.
 
I was underneath mine a few months back, saw some lube leaking out. Got it to my dealership after work one day for the master tech to take a look, he said its early, but eventually it'll go and cause damage to the joints.

I ordered the boot kit, he put it on the next day. Wasnt that painful $-wise. He did take the joints out and inspected and they werent damaged at all. Im glad i caught it.
 
My inner boots on the small end seep a little especially after a day of off roading. I went to check them today and found that I could easily move them on the shaft so they did loosen. I think part of it is that the boots are now 8 years old and the rubber hardens. I added a tie wrap for now but will install new clamps when I get them.
 
just throw a worm clamp on it and forget about it.. just wait till spring and do it the joint will be fine.. ive seen guys run torn boots for 20,000 miles and the joints are fine.. and those cv clamps come loose all the time and leak small amounts of grease all the time i see it every day..

ps did cv boots today both sides 35 minutes:trophy:
 
Based on what I've read on this forum leaking boots, not torn, is a very common occurrence in our 4R's.

And in most cases it is the clamp that is the culprit.

I agree! Mine started leaking after the lift and it was the clamp at the outer end that was the culprit. Replaced the clamp and hasn't leaked since. It's not something thats an isolated occurrence as DocMt would have you to believe.
 
Here we go.

1) If I took it to the dealer what would I expect to pay for the repair?

2) They are forecasting better than 2' of snow in Chicago, can I do damage by using 4WD??

Thanks for the input.

Two words: silicone tape

My passenger cv boot had a very slow leak at the clamp and I had been watching it for a couple of years. The leak rate really started accelerating lately, so two weeks ago I ordered some smooth edged, European style hose clamps to do the repair. Before they arrived, I had the chance to go on a multi-day offroad trip that I didn't want to pass up but I was worried about the leak rate combined with muck. Before the trip, I slid under the truck, wiped the area clean and applied the silicone tape. Here is a pic I snapped when checking on it. The boot had been through lots of snow, dirt, and sand. At present, the tape doesn't show the slightest hint of any change in state from the original application and there's no grease. I'm leaving it this way for now as I want to see how long the fix lasts. I won't be surprised if it lasts as long as the boot.

CVbootsilicontape.jpg~original
 
I agree! Mine started leaking after the lift and it was the clamp at the outer end that was the culprit. Replaced the clamp and hasn't leaked since. It's not something thats an isolated occurrence as DocMt would have you to believe.

I didn't say it was isolated. I said it wasn't common. I worked for many years at a Toyota dealership repairing cars. Believe me when I say it's not common. Just because you and a few other guys had it happen doesn't mean it happens to everyone. For every guy who chimes in to say "hey, my boots leaked too" there are 25 guys who haven't ever had a boot leak.
 
just throw a worm clamp on it and forget about it.. just wait till spring and do it the joint will be fine.. ive seen guys run torn boots for 20,000 miles and the joints are fine.. and those cv clamps come loose all the time and leak small amounts of grease all the time i see it every day..

ps did cv boots today both sides 35 minutes:trophy:

This is bad advice. Once a boot is either torn or leaking, the bellows boot will "pump" the grease out of the joint as the shaft turns. And once the grease begins to pump out, contaminents get inside the boot and will destroy the CV joint. I've seen it over and over again. That's why I always recommended a boot job to my customers if I caught the damage early enough. If I caught it too late, I had to change out the whole axle, for three times the cost to the customer.

Save the worm clamps for the hoses on your pool filter. They don't belong on a bellows boot unless it's an emergency and you have nothing else to use.
 
I have met with squeezed grease too. It seems grease is squeezed because of winter colds in most of cases. And if there are only little amount of grease near clamp, no need to worry.
But i still want to install worm clamps.
 
To the OP, the clamp replacement is a quick and easy repair. Check the link in my signature to find the thread. Suck up the temperature in the garage for 15 minutes with a pair of pliers versus a larger repair bill later. Be thankful you don't have to do the job outdoors.

To the others about the boot clamp debate. It may be "rare" or "isolated" or "uncommon". Call it what you want but I was very surprised to see this happen on my T4R so early on. The clamp was intact but lost clamping force for no known reason? What's with that design? Comparing this to other domestic vehicles (ie. '92 rust bucket Jimmy after 15 years) that never once had a boot issue.
 
To the OP, the clamp replacement is a quick and easy repair. Check the link in my signature to find the thread. Suck up the temperature in the garage for 15 minutes with a pair of pliers versus a larger repair bill later. Be thankful you don't have to do the job outdoors.

To the others about the boot clamp debate. It may be "rare" or "isolated" or "uncommon". Call it what you want but I was very surprised to see this happen on my T4R so early on. The clamp was intact but lost clamping force for no known reason? What's with that design? Comparing this to other domestic vehicles (ie. '92 rust bucket Jimmy after 15 years) that never once had a boot issue.

Probably it was incorrectly installed from the beginning. The clamps are crimped and in most cases will never lose their clamping force. But never say never...
 
Probably it was incorrectly installed from the beginning. The clamps are crimped and in most cases will never lose their clamping force. But never say never...

The OEM clamps don't look like a crimp style. More like a unique foldover.

If the clamp "was incorrectly installed from the beginning" then why didn't it leak from the beginning? Was the corresponding clamp on my passenger side also incorrectly installed from the beginning and I wasn't able to detect that when I inspected it after my driver side repair? It seemed tight and intact yet it started leaking even later. Did I affect the clamp force and loosen the joint merely by physically trying to move it during the inspection?
These are merely rhetorical questions to point out there is a flaw in the design or a reliability issue with the execution of it for the boot to come loose and leak.
 
FWIW my 2005 has only 40,000 miles and a cornfed 3/2. I suspect the additional angle may have something to do with the leak starting. I was wondering if any of you fellow leakers have stock suspension or all we all lifted in one form or another?
 
FWIW my 2005 has only 40,000 miles and a cornfed 3/2. I suspect the additional angle may have something to do with the leak starting. I was wondering if any of you fellow leakers have stock suspension or all we all lifted in one form or another?

Stock suspension. 1" larger tires almost since new.
 

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