CV Joints boots cracked, replace axle now or wait?

[Jakeepoo3]

You have a helper dang I don't know what I'd do with one of those. Never had a helper so put it in 4wd next time for the axle nut ��

 

[Jakeepoo3]

Well I was able to complete both axles today. Overall I would say that the job isn't too bad after you have gone through it once. The hardest part was seating the c-clip on the ends of the axles into the differential.

My recommendation for anyone considering doing this job yourself is to pick up at least a 2.5lb sledge hammer when trying to seat the axles. Using a small hammer or even a deadblow hammer is not heavy enough to get the job done in my opinion. You need something with some weight behind it otherwise you are just exerting a lot of effort with no results.

Overall the steps I did were:

1. Jack and support front of vehicle.
2. Drain the front differential. NOTE: Make sure that you can remove the filler plug before draining.
3. Remove axle dust cover.
4. Remove cotter pin and cap covering axle nut.
5. Remove the 35mm axle nut.
   (HELPFUL TIP: If axle nut will not come off easy. Spray with PB blaster. There are two ways to prevent the axle from spinning when trying to loosen.
   - You can wedge a pry bar against the wheel studs and the ground.
   OR
   - You can remove the center cap from the wheel, mount the wheel and lower the car to the ground. Now apply the emergency brake. You can now use your ratchet and breaker bar. You can also support the axle nut and extension by placing a jack stand under it to avoid the axle nut socket from slipping off when applying force with the breaker bar.
   - I used the latter method as one of my axle nuts was very difficult to remove.)
6. Remove tie rod end by removing cotter pin and 19mm bolt. (I rented a tie rod end puller which made this step super easy.)
7. Separate the lower ball joint by removing the two 19mm bolts under the knuckle.
8. Now pull the whole assembly (knuckle, caliper and rotor) away from the axle. Be careful not to damage the dust seal behind the bearing during this step. I did not need to press or hit out the axle from the bearing. I was able to push the axle out using my fingers. NOTE: The service manual states to remove the speed sensor including wire from the hub in order to remove the axle. This step was not needed. Just watch the speed sensor and brake hose when rotating the knuckle out of the way.
9. Support the axle with a bungee cord before attempting to remove it from the differential. This will help to prevent it failing out and hitting you or damaging something else.
10. Using a pry bar and hammer, push out the axle from the differential. Be patient here. Once you get past the c-clip, you may need to keep hitting the axle out in order to remove it completely.
    
    
11. Compare new axle to old axle to ensure correct part.
    
    
12. Lube end of axle shaft that goes into differential with ATF or differential gear oil.
13. Insert axle with c-clip open side down into the differential. Be careful not to damage the oil seal when inserting the axle. Make sure the end shaft is inserted squarely and evenly and as far as it can go. NOTE: It will only go in so far by hand. See image below.
    
    
14. Insert the axle all the way into the differential using a big hammer. Make sure the c-clips snaps into the differential. Make sure the axle is straight before hitting. This took several hits in order to insert all the way into the differential. Be patient here. Having a proper size hammer will make all the difference in the world. NOTE: To avoid damaging the threads on the end of the shaft, you can add the old axle nut in front of the new axle nut before hitting with the hammer.
    
    
15. Now reassemble. Install the knuckle over the axle. Be careful not to damage the dust seal on the back of the bearing.
16. Install the 35mm axle nut and hand tighten. You should be able to pull the axle all the way up to the dust seal with the axle nut.
17. Install the two 19mm lower ball joint bolts. NOTE: You may need to raise the knuckle using a jack in order to align the bolts.
18. Install the tie rod end using the 19mm nut. Torque to 67 ft-lb and install cotter pin.
19. Torque both lower ball joint bolts to 118 ft-lb.
20. Torque axle nut to 217 ft-lb. Install cap and cotter pin over axle nut. NOTE: You can use the two methods described above in step 5 in order to assist with tightening the axle nut.
21. Install dust cover over axle nut.
22. Repeat all steps for other axle if needed. Excluding draining the differential of course.
23. Refill differential with appropriate fluid. Torque fill plug to 29 ft-lb and drain plug to 48 ft-lb.
24. Reinstall tires and tighten to 83 ft-lb.

Enjoy.... Hope this helps someone. Btw, I appreciate all the help I received here. This forum is the best!

Smooth concrete surface is nice too

 

[Kirarunner]

I would personally just get new CVs. You can get napa lifetime warranty ones that do the job just fine.

 

[rwh963]

I would personally just get new CVs. You can get napa lifetime warranty ones that do the job just fine.

lifetime warranty is good if you do your own labor. i have a torn outer boot on front passenger on an aftermarket installed at a shop. only 30k on them. ws told i can go a long time like this, esp. considering its a v6 with limited 4wd engagement.

read that 5th get are an option? is that a fact? i swapped a 5th gen exhaust onto my '07, and it was was compatible.

 

[rwh963]

stopped at my local NAPA store. was told the drive axles would be $104 (AAA discount) with limited lifetime warranty. new, not Remaned. my indie shop told me they had switched vendors for these that includes lifetime warranty. they would charge $210. i'm confident these are the same, just with a 100% mark up by the shop!!! on a new part, the labor would still carry the 1 year warranty, so i would buy my own parts and let some shop do the install.

 

[mrmike7189]

mine have failed twice.

If its the V6, you can go for a long time without replacing the CVs, especially if you're not using 4wd. The CVs would be toast of course, but its not going to seize up on the highway, especially if they're already worn from driving on them. If its the v8, you may need to look at replacing them sooner, since the CVs are always getting power

I had a hard time ordering used OEM CVs on eBay. I was ordering from LKQ, the first one was cancelled for product damage the day after it was expected to be delivered, the second one I ordered was cancelled for product damage the day after it was ordered, and the last one showed up as an O'Reillys axle which I got refunded. People have had good luck with eBay in the past, I guess I just had bad luck. The best place would probably be from someone here or tacoma world, since its most likely another enthusiast.

From my research, anything 03-20 4runner, 03-09 gx470, second gen Tacoma, and I think any FJ axle will work. 5th gen 4runners have better inner boots, they're a thermoplastic like the outer boot.

My 2020 SR5 4x4 has had CV boots/axle shaft replaced . both sides done under warranty. I rarely use the 4wheel drive and my truck is stock from the factory. Do these fail often ? or did I just get a bad one? only 50k miles on the vehicle.

 

[d33pt]

My 2020 SR5 4x4 has had CV boots/axle shaft replaced . both sides done under warranty. I rarely use the 4wheel drive and my truck is stock from the factory. Do these fail often ? or did I just get a bad one? only 50k miles on the vehicle.

That's crazy if they failed that quickly. I am pretty sure mine are original from 2004 with 215K miles.

 

[y=mx+b]

My 2020 SR5 4x4 has had CV boots/axle shaft replaced . both sides done under warranty. I rarely use the 4wheel drive and my truck is stock from the factory. Do these fail often ? or did I just get a bad one? only 50k miles on the vehicle.

They should not be failing this often. Is in the inner or outer boot? If inner, boot stretch may be good for you. Mine have been on about 50k since rebooting without issue and decent mix of on/off road.

Some pics of boot stretch in a writeup here: CV Reboot Tutorial with Boot Stretch (80+ Pictures)

 

[4thGenCanuck]

Following because my boots are torn too

 

[warrig]

just put a bunch of work into a new to me 4th gen 4runner, redid much of the front end.

Cardone HD axles inner boots are a 'no go'.

after a lot of looking, and no remans to be found, reluctantly installed the CARDONE 665235HD With Heavy Duty Thermoplastic Outboard Boot. the inner neoprene boot tore in less than 5k miles and 6 weeks of driving. lots of driving both on and off paved road. the otherside is real close to tearing. i submitted to the cheap, to try and buy some time as the rest of the installation is all high dollar OEM or aftermarket. had no issue with the cv axle otherwise. note, these Cardone's looked better thatn the ones at the local auto parts store which had neoprene rubber on both the inner and outer boots.

Just ordered some 5th gen OEM CVs shafts. Inner boots look to be the thermoplastic like the outer boot from pics.

We'll see if the order gets cancelled. Seems to me, car parts are getting more tough to get, even more so than the last 3 years. Beware.

serious looking into alternative fix for the inner boot issue, specifically looking to a thermoplastic type boot mod.

just saw this on "spidan" thermoplastic type on ebay, dimensions check out: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/20033662674

other possible mods:
1) the 2nd gen tundra thermoplastic inner boot is real close in size, may work on some aftermarket CV axles housings and maybe the OEM axle housing with the indented radius, with a further mod.
2) the 4th gen 4runner thermoplastic outer boot looks like it may work as an inner boot for an OEM axle, i.e. use the neoprene rubber boot end as a bushing, overlap with the outer thermoplastic cv boot.

i cannot be dealing with readily torn CVs boots. tundra CV shafts with both inner and outer thermo plastic boots are gtg for +150K miles.

 

[xtremewlr]

I have over 60k miles on these boots, on and off road use. They are holding up great and will work for stock or lifted applications. Little more expensive but I highly recommend them.

High Angle Inner CV Boot - Products - Off Road Solutions

Don't replace your OEM front axles just because of a torn boot. Aftermarket axles are not as good, unless something like RCV.

 

[gaber6]

If it isn't a terrible tear, you can try heavy rubber electrical tape for a temporary permanent fix. So far mine has held for 3 weeks with no issues, so I'll be good to go until I need to tape it again.

Link of my fix.

$5 CV axle fix #automobile #repair #hack - YouTube