CV Repair advice

Park

Park

New member
So I my cv boots tore almost immediately after I lifted my truck. I read on some threads that some people will just put a hose clamp on the seal and that that would fix it. So I tried and my boots just tore in the middle. So my question is: From what I understand, it is easier to just purchase a whole new axle assembly. Correct? Also, where can I find these for a reasonable price? NAPA wants $334 for this whole assembly. Thanks for your help. Heres the CVs I found at NAPA:

 
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That's with a core charge. Should only cost you around $120 after you bring your cores back, they'll refund you.
 
I just looked on Advance Auto Parts website and found them for $60 a side or $100 depending on the brand and star rating. When I had my Tacoma 5 years ago I bought CV shafts from Advance Auto Parts because the boots had torn. I had and still have the boots, grease, and clamps from the dealership. At the time the plan was to just replace the boots, but once I got into the job that changed. I wasn't very confident in replacing the boots once I started and getting my truck back on the road was critical so I opted to just replace the CV shafts. This time I might try doing the boots as I have more mechanical experience and confidence now.
 
Ok so if I bought these from NAPA they would in turn, repay me if I gave them my old axles?

And one more question: My freind has a 2011 GMC Sierra with a 6" skyjacker lift kit. He was telling me that I need to put a spacer plate on my axles to prevent the boots from tearing again. Do they sell something like that for our trucks?
 
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I had same problem. I opted to go with CVJ axles, inc. in Denver. They have legit OEM re-builds for $89 ea. if I recall. Can't remember what the cores were. I also had them put long travel inner boots on there for $40 more. really had good service and were friendly and easy to deal with. The axles have been perfect, though I had to stretch the outer boots further due to the bellows touching. Steve sent me new clamps for free. Easy fix. I highly recommend them -
 
So by putting long travel inner boots on the axles, my boots will not tear as easily? Also if I just put new OEM style boots are they likely to tear early on?
 
My CVs also developed a tear almost immediately after a minor lift but I opted to simply replace the boots. The boots weren't cheap at $40 for both, but still cheaper than a brand new CV. It's definitely a messy job though.

I keep reading that most new aftermarket CVs aren't as strong as oem. If you can get remanufactured CVs that use stock internals, then maybe it would be a good replacement. If you go with a re-manufactured CV, I have a feeling they just do a simple re-boot and mark-up the price anyways. The only benefit is the warranty and you save yourself some mess.
 
I had the same thing happen to mine. Granted my CV's had 350k miles on them when I lifted. Anyway, I put Masterpro Brand new axles from Oreilly for like 69.95 each. They are lifetime warranty, and come with a new circlip and grease seal. You will want to paint them though, as they come bare steel and will develop surface rust in short order. I didn't paint mine and now regret it, but I am going to be swapping one out soon as I tore the boot putting it on. The nice thing about buying these is that Oreilly will just warranty them for pretty much no reason at all.
 
nobb said:
My CVs also developed a tear almost immediately after a minor lift but I opted to simply replace the boots. The boots weren't cheap at $40 for both, but still cheaper than a brand new CV. It's definitely a messy job though.

I keep reading that most new aftermarket CVs aren't as strong as oem. If you can get remanufactured CVs that use stock internals, then maybe it would be a good replacement. If you go with a re-manufactured CV, I have a feeling they just do a simple re-boot and mark-up the price anyways. The only benefit is the warranty and you save yourself some mess.
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x2 on just replacing the boots. And I read the same thing that OEM is stronger than what normal autoparts stores carry.
 
shadow247 said:
I had the same thing happen to mine. Granted my CV's had 350k miles on them when I lifted. Anyway, I put Masterpro Brand new axles from Oreilly for like 69.95 each. They are lifetime warranty, and come with a new circlip and grease seal. You will want to paint them though, as they come bare steel and will develop surface rust in short order. I didn't paint mine and now regret it, but I am going to be swapping one out soon as I tore the boot putting it on. The nice thing about buying these is that Oreilly will just warranty them for pretty much no reason at all.
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Alright I think I going to pay a trip to Orielys

snivilous said:
x2 on just replacing the boots. And I read the same thing that OEM is stronger than what normal autoparts stores carry.
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Honestly, If I can get aftermarkets axles with a lifetime waranty, who cares? If they break I just exchange them.

I also here that you have to have a special tool to put new boots on.
 
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Park said:
Honestly, If I can get aftermarkets axles with a lifetime waranty, who cares? If they break I just exchange them.
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That's definitely true, but since you have a perfectly fine CV may as well keep it. EDIT: Though I was assuming you'd just throw the CV away which you're not since you're swapping it, so it doesn't really matter...

Park said:
I also here that you have to have a special tool to put new boots on.
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The only thing that's tricky is pulling off the snap ring that holds the innerards of the CV in, so a snap ring tool would be helpful. It's also not a normal snap ring with holes that you can grab, it's angled and has to be screwed with a bit to get off. That was the only annoyance, otherwise there's nothing special. It takes maybe an hour assuming you can get that snap ring on and off easily, which a second person helping it's no sweat.
 
snivilous said:
That's definitely true, but since you have a perfectly fine CV may as well keep it. EDIT: Though I was assuming you'd just throw the CV away which you're not since you're swapping it, so it doesn't really matter...



The only thing that's tricky is pulling off the snap ring that holds the innerards of the CV in, so a snap ring tool would be helpful. It's also not a normal snap ring with holes that you can grab, it's angled and has to be screwed with a bit to get off. That was the only annoyance, otherwise there's nothing special. It takes maybe an hour assuming you can get that snap ring on and off easily, which a second person helping it's no sweat.
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That's good advice, but I changed both my CV's in about an hour.
 
Park said:
So by putting long travel inner boots on the axles, my boots will not tear as easily? Also if I just put new OEM style boots are they likely to tear early on?
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In my opinion, the long travels help to accommodate the new lift angle of the axle which is generally what make the OEM boots fail. My OEM boots had no rips, the seals simply failed because they didn't like their new home after lift install (with diff drop). I think they're worth it simply because I don't want OEM's that might fail again and then have to deal with the aftermath again -
 
snivilous said:
Changed the CVs or reinstalled boots?
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Changed both CV's out for new units. It took me about 45 minutes for the first side, then about 15 for the other side once I figured it out. I spend at least 10 minutes wandering around the shop looking for the right size wrench for the CV nut to borrow from one of my techs.
 
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