You do not need to disassemble them. You just need to take them out. No compressors needed.
daystar 2.5/1/5 install
- Thread starter Richierollz
- Start date
You do not need to disassemble them. You just need to take them out. No compressors needed.
Or you can avoid a mechanic trashing your XREAS system and do it yourself. It's not a frustrating project. It's easy and you learn a lot about your suspension.
I did the install Saturday with my neighbor. He owed me the favor after I spent a weekend installing a major lift on his Rubicon! This was way easy in comparison.
I read every DIY thread I could find, but none of them really mentioned how difficult it can be to get the strut out once you undo the three tower bolts and the lower bolt. That shock extends itself to fill the extra space and it took a while before we realized we needed to really pry down that LCA with a pry bar. Make sure to undo that XREAS bracket first, or you'll be wishing you never tried this project.
Daystar 1.5" Spacer in the Rear
I installed the 2.5/1/5 level kit on 05' Sport XREAS. Is there anything unusual that I need to do with that rear spacer? I'm getting a top out noise clunking noise when I go over speed bumps. I've checked all hardware for tightness. Anyone else experience unwanted noises after daystar install?
I installed the 2.5/1/5 level kit on 05' Sport XREAS. Is there anything unusual that I need to do with that rear spacer? I'm getting a top out noise clunking noise when I go over speed bumps. I've checked all hardware for tightness. Anyone else experience unwanted noises after daystar install?
jwkilgore
New member
Same question. My kit arrived today, but I had to send it back because some ijit only packed 3 spacers (2 rear, 1 front) instead of four in the kit. Next kit should arrive Friday, and I'd like to install this weekend.
Dreams of Steel
New member
I also am going to be installing the 2.5 / 1.5 DayStar kit this weekend and could use some real world step-by-step pics if there are any out there, or perhaps a video someone has forgotten about?
buckeye4runner08
New member
Bumping in hopes that someone has an updated write up. Am seriously considering getting the kit on order so that I can install this long-weekend, I just need some guidance/reassurance.
Whytey
New member
Any chance anyone has those photos?
I am installing the Daystar kit this Friday. I have combined as much info as possible and made myself a little cheat sheet. And for each step I have attached images taken from google (generic images of specific components.)
And do you think a general alignment is sufficient after this install? Or should I be looking to get a more thorough one done?
Thanks
I am installing the Daystar kit this Friday. I have combined as much info as possible and made myself a little cheat sheet. And for each step I have attached images taken from google (generic images of specific components.)
And do you think a general alignment is sufficient after this install? Or should I be looking to get a more thorough one done?
Thanks
buckeye4runner08
New member
A standard two wheel alignment will be plenty sufficient after the install. Remember, if you plan on loosening the LCAs then mark the existing points on the adjustment cams.
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Whytey
New member
I just installed my Daystar 2.5" front 1.5" rear lift kit yesterday. It took a lot longer than I had hoped as I spent about 5 hours driving around the city trying to find certain tools/replacement parts.
I did not get a chance to thoroughly document it as I had planned. But I will try and put together a walk through with stock photos if I can find appropriate ones.
For the most part I followed the original instructions by the OP.
The main source of my frustration which will continue to bother me until the get it fixed was the swaybar.
Once I had removed the front skid plate I began to remove the sway bar. There are 4 bolts (2 on each side of the frame). These proved to be extremely tight and a process to get off. As I was removing the driver side rear bolt it became bent. In my process of trying to continue removing it I sheared the bolt off about 1/8" from the head. With a 1/4" sticking out from the frame leaving probably an inch or more still threaded. I am going to put some rust penetrating oil and use a bolt extractor to hopefully get that bit out.
Now on the other side as I was reefing on the passenger side rear bolt it just gave way at one point. The bolt was now freely spinning but I could not figure out why I could not get it started again with some down pressure (crow bar prying down on it.)
Using my phones camera and flash I was able to peek through a small hole in the frame and see that there are actually threaded nuts on the inside of the frame which are probably spot welded in place. As I was trying to remove the bolt I guess I cracked those spot welds and it came loose. So now I have a spinning bolt with nut on the inside of the frame with no easy access to it.
I was able to complete the rest of the install and put the vehicle back together without the sway bar.
I have read some people prefer this method as it allows for more suspension movement for off roading. I am currently still running stock suspension with XREAS. I am slightly worried about putting excessive stress on the front suspension without the sway bar on.
Doing a little bit of research one persons recommendation was to remove the front bumper and unbolt the steel bumper piece attached to the frame. This may open up the end of the frame and allow some access to this bolt. It is still probably a foot or more into the frame but better than the tiny hole in the side. Now I may need to get in touch with a welder to remove the bolt and weld a new bolt in place. Allowing me to re install the swaybar.
I found a few articles regarding this exact problem so I know i'm not alone. I would recommend for anyone doing this project to spray a blast of rust penetrating oil through the small side hole onto the bolt and nut inside the frame. Could prevent this problem from happening again.
I will do my best to post my walkthrough for installing the daystar leveling lift.
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask or send me a message.
I took on this project expecting something to frustrate me. I have very little mechanical experience but having just bought my 4runner I plan on learning as much as I can as I intend to keep this truck for a very long time.
The vehicle is a 2007 Toyota 4runner Sport Edition V8. It only has 90,000km (56,000 miles). So low mileage but a little bit of rust on the underside. nothing too crazy but enough to make some of the bolts stubborn.
But the truck looks great. It is currently getting an alignment right now. I did make notes and markings for my alignment adjustment and when I put it back together nothing had moved. The vehicle drives straight and does not drift so I am interested to hear how far off the alignment was.
I did not get a chance to thoroughly document it as I had planned. But I will try and put together a walk through with stock photos if I can find appropriate ones.
For the most part I followed the original instructions by the OP.
The main source of my frustration which will continue to bother me until the get it fixed was the swaybar.
Once I had removed the front skid plate I began to remove the sway bar. There are 4 bolts (2 on each side of the frame). These proved to be extremely tight and a process to get off. As I was removing the driver side rear bolt it became bent. In my process of trying to continue removing it I sheared the bolt off about 1/8" from the head. With a 1/4" sticking out from the frame leaving probably an inch or more still threaded. I am going to put some rust penetrating oil and use a bolt extractor to hopefully get that bit out.
Now on the other side as I was reefing on the passenger side rear bolt it just gave way at one point. The bolt was now freely spinning but I could not figure out why I could not get it started again with some down pressure (crow bar prying down on it.)
Using my phones camera and flash I was able to peek through a small hole in the frame and see that there are actually threaded nuts on the inside of the frame which are probably spot welded in place. As I was trying to remove the bolt I guess I cracked those spot welds and it came loose. So now I have a spinning bolt with nut on the inside of the frame with no easy access to it.
I was able to complete the rest of the install and put the vehicle back together without the sway bar.
I have read some people prefer this method as it allows for more suspension movement for off roading. I am currently still running stock suspension with XREAS. I am slightly worried about putting excessive stress on the front suspension without the sway bar on.
Doing a little bit of research one persons recommendation was to remove the front bumper and unbolt the steel bumper piece attached to the frame. This may open up the end of the frame and allow some access to this bolt. It is still probably a foot or more into the frame but better than the tiny hole in the side. Now I may need to get in touch with a welder to remove the bolt and weld a new bolt in place. Allowing me to re install the swaybar.
I found a few articles regarding this exact problem so I know i'm not alone. I would recommend for anyone doing this project to spray a blast of rust penetrating oil through the small side hole onto the bolt and nut inside the frame. Could prevent this problem from happening again.
I will do my best to post my walkthrough for installing the daystar leveling lift.
If anyone has any questions feel free to ask or send me a message.
I took on this project expecting something to frustrate me. I have very little mechanical experience but having just bought my 4runner I plan on learning as much as I can as I intend to keep this truck for a very long time.
The vehicle is a 2007 Toyota 4runner Sport Edition V8. It only has 90,000km (56,000 miles). So low mileage but a little bit of rust on the underside. nothing too crazy but enough to make some of the bolts stubborn.
But the truck looks great. It is currently getting an alignment right now. I did make notes and markings for my alignment adjustment and when I put it back together nothing had moved. The vehicle drives straight and does not drift so I am interested to hear how far off the alignment was.
I ditched this method and tried what was listed a few posts back.
I'm currently stuck doing the Daystar install. I have the three nuts removed from the strut housing. I have the spindle disconnected from the lower control arm. Do I leave the bottom strut bolt in place and attempt to lower the lower control arm somehow? Is removing the three nuts from the top of the strut housing all that is needed to pull down on the lower control arm?
Thank you.
Couple other things to do.
- mark the cam bolts (where the LCA pivots from the frame) and loosen them.
- Disconnect the sway bar if you haven't already
- With the spindle swung out of the way, put a big pry bar in the LCA and pry it down. It will be pretty stiff, but should swing down and the 3 upper shock bolts should drop right out of the upper mount.
- mark the cam bolts (where the LCA pivots from the frame) and loosen them.
- Disconnect the sway bar if you haven't already
- With the spindle swung out of the way, put a big pry bar in the LCA and pry it down. It will be pretty stiff, but should swing down and the 3 upper shock bolts should drop right out of the upper mount.
