DayStar 2.5"/1.5" lift/leveling kit install on 2012 TE w/ KDSS

[optik]

Hey everyone - Today I'll be doing my first REAL mod to my 2012 Trail T4R. I've been searching, reading, and subscribing to threads for months... and today is the big day. I'll be installing the DayStar front/rear spacer kit (KT09134BK Daystarâ„¢ - Driven by Design). I've done minor mechanical stuff in the past (changing brakes, rotors, etc), but this will be my first suspension experience. Hopefully through reading, searching, and the resources available here, I'll be successful.

That being said, I've found quite a few tutorials for the front lift/spacer install, but not many for the rear DayStar spacer install.

For the front spacer install, I'll be referencing these threads:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...er-s-ideas-since-mid-2010-a-6.html#post754964
OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

First question - Can anyone point me to some helpful links/threads on rear spacer installs? I'd greatly appreciate it.
All I've found so far is this one (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/129654-te-w-kdss-lift-install-questions.html), but it doesn't have any pictures (haha... I know... but visual references are EXTREMELY helpful).

Second question - Are there any tips and tricks specifically for KDSS spacer installs? I thought I once read something about jacking up the opposite diagonal wheel (ex. install on front right, jack up rear left) to compress the KDSS and further increase the travel of the wheel being worked on. I haven't been able to find the thread/comment since.

Third question - This probably should be the FIRST question... What are the best locations to place the floor jack when lifting the truck, and what are the best locations for the placement of jack stands?

In the pictures, looks like most jack the front of the truck up between the cross-member support and the cross member, then place the jack stand near the cross-member support (some mention placing the jack stand "under the bolds for the cross-member supports").

Thanks in advance. I'll be taking many pictures throughout the entire process, and plan on doing a write-up / guide when I'm done to give back to this awesome community.

 

[Randyman...]

Per your post in the other thread - I'll post my notes from the 5100 Install I did yesterday. No pics as of yet. This is just my un-organized recap of nonsense . I didn't find any specific guides on this (I searched, but not too hard TBH) - so I pretty much took my experience from my old '99 Tacoma and '87 T4R, and dove in head first!

I only installed 5100's with stock springs on my SR5 (no KDSS), but I did have to drop my rear axle to add the 10mm Driver's Side Spacer for "Lean compensation" - so it was basically like I was installing new rear springs, too.

For Jack Stand placement, I did Front and Rear upgrades separately. I only have 4 jack stands and 2 jacks, and I wanted to have some back-ups under the part of the truck I was working on for safety.

Up front, I used the frame-rails under the front seats before they bend upwards by the wheel wells. I also had an extra jack kissing one of the front crossmembers "just in case". On the rear, I snuck the stands in right behind the 4-Link trailing-arm mount on the Passenger side (same location on the driver's side), and also had a few extra jack stands in front of the rear wheels for safety. I kept my main jack under the rear-axle for the entire rear-shock swap to facilitate dropping the axle.

I DON'T have KDSS, so I'm not of much help there. But I did have to disconnect the rear sway-bar links to allow the rear axle to drop down far enough to release the springs. I used a jack on the opposing side to raise that side - which naturally lowered the side I was working on (acted as a lever with my main jack in the middle of the axle). This allowed the springs to pull out w/o any effort. Watch your brake lines and ABS wires!

My particular rear spacer simply slid ontop of the integral bump-stop, and fit right back into the spring pocket. The spring bottoms are "keyed" to line up on the rear axle pocket - make sure that's solid before you load them up...


Midas compressed the front coilovers and swapped in the 5100's with their wall-mounted spring compressor for $20 (plus a $20 tip). I'm honestly glad I didn't attempt this myself with the "Loan a Tool" spring compressors from Auto Zone.

I had to remove the tie-rod ends, sway-bar links AND sway-bar mounts to get enough clearance to remove the front coil-overs. I wasn't expecting to remove the Tie-Rod ends Sway-Bar mounts - but whatev's You can get the front sway-bar mounts off w/o removing the skid plate(s) with a bit of patience and a 3/8" universal swivel..

Up front, I had to twist the Coilover assembly by 1/3 (rotated one hole) to allow it to slip past the UCA's inner dimension. If the spring was rotated 1/3 of a turn, it would hit the UCA and not allow me to slide the lower mount into place. I struggled with this for a good hour until I realized the spring just happened to be hitting the inside of the upper UCA - and rotating the spiral spring gave me the needed clearance. This might have been due to the 0.85" setting I used on the 5100's - Basically it just matters where the spring's coil ends up WRT the upper UCA's inner dimensions...

Some pry-bars will come in handy - I had to flex my front IFS down pretty hard to get the Coilover to slip back in, and this is with stock height 5100's (set at 0.85" which doesn't affect this part of the install). I got very close with elbow grease alone, but prying down with a pry-bar made it much easier to slip the shock back in with my free hand...

Can you say "Shade Tree Mechanic" :drummer: