Dec 09 / Jan 10 / Feb 10 T4ROTM - darkie3495

I was gonna post a new thread on 120 but I'm sure you cam answer my question...

What gauge wiring are you using for your 170's now that your converting them to ddm hids? I just ordered 2 more sets last week to finish the conversion for my 170's and I've Been thinking about how I'm
Gonna rewire everything now


Maybe if you can fill me in on your whole rewire plan, that would be awesome!
 
What gauge wiring are you using for your 170's now that your converting them to ddm hids? I just ordered 2 more sets last week to finish the conversion for my 170's and I've Been thinking about how I'm
Gonna rewire everything now

Maybe if you can fill me in on your whole rewire plan, that would be awesome!

Yup, we're running the same HID setup.

Existing from last set up:
Battery >> Rear hatch fuse block - (1) 8 ga

Rewire project:
Rear Fuse block >> Relays -(2) 10 ga
Relays >> front of roof rack (4) 10 ga
Roof rack >> ballasts (8) 12 ga

So basically, i'm running 4 strands of 10 ga wire up through the rear pillar and down through the rack. Once I hit the front of the rack, i'm then splitting each 10 ga wire into two 12 ga wires to power 2 ballasts.

Wait a second... I just realized you just got a new bumper!! Looks pretty kickass :)

Thanks!! I guess if you spend enough time on 120, you start thinking 4Runners come with front bumpers from the factory...HA
 
Awesome thanks!

I'll stock up on some wire and start that after I finish converting my 170s. What did you use as a distribution block for the rear Hatch? How did you run the 8 gauge from the battery to the back and also how are you going to run 4 10 gauge wires from the inside to the roof? Will you be grounding the ballasts on the roof?
 
What did you use as a distribution block for the rear Hatch?

I used a blue sea system 6 fuse distribution block from West Marine (ST* Blade Fuse Block With Cover - 6 Circuit with Negative Bus - PN 5025 - Blue Sea Systems) to leave room for more lights/accessories if needed. I placed the fuse block and the relays in driver's side cubby in the rear hatch.

How did you run the 8 gauge from the battery to the back and also how are you going to run 4 10 gauge wires from the inside to the roof? Will you be grounding the ballasts on the roof?

Drilled a hole on the driver side firewall and ran the 8ga along the wire bundle beneath the door sills. My original plan was to run two strands of 10ga along each bottom rail but quickly realized that there are metal sleeves on the inside of the tubes which decrease the inside diameter by half. Plus the hole i would have to drill in the rack would be massive.

Chances are that i'll ground the rack to minimize the headache by running 2 10ga wire to a clean ground off the back rack legs.

**EDIT** actually i just re-read your question on how i'm feeding the wire from inside to the roof rack. I'm running it up through the driver's side rear pillar and using the rubber wire loom to the hatch. I'll try and take a pic of it in the next few days.
 
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Bumper looks great! How did/do you like the LF140/170? I am thinking about upgrading my 500ff to LF 140 or 170 once I get my Gobi roof rack.

Thanks man!!

I love the LF's. 140's are great and pretty bright. The only downside, if there is any, is that the 140's come in either spot or wide beam patterns. 170's and 240's can run the combo filters. which really isn't a huge issue since you can adjust the beam pattern by twisting the reflector.

Are you getting the stealth or the ranger? if it's the stealth, the depth of the LF's might come into play. I have a spare pair of 140's so let me know if you want to test fit the LF's before you upgrade. the 140/170/240 all share the same base so we can swap the reflectors to see which size you want to go with.
 
whoa...someone's been busy!

Just a little bit. Most of it has been piling up in my storage unit waiting for the bumper to arrive.

Might have to take you up on your offer....might make installing the body lift a whole lot easier. Plus want to see how the duallys perform.
 
So I finally upgraded the wiring for the rack and fronts to support the new LF HID retrofits. I'm a little OCD when it comes to hiding wires and wrapping them in wire looms. On top of that, I had to make sure and test all the connections were clean so it took me the better part of the day. Plus, I built some waterproof pods for the ballast/igniter (Seattle weather) until i can fabricate something better. Pretty satisfied with the results. I'll be able to test distance/spread this weekend.

LF 170's
IMG_1978.jpg~original


LF 240's
IMG_1979.jpg~original


The reflection on the hood from the roof lights isn't bad from the driver's seat with the combo filters, but matte clear VentureShield or a matte black vinyl wrap for the hood is now on my "to do" list.
IMG_1980.jpg~original


IMG_1975.jpg~original


IMG_1977.jpg~original
 
How did the distance/spread testing go? I've been eyeing some 240s and would love some more pictures. Also how often do you actually get to use your entire light setup?

I love the look of the 240s on the front bumper! Your build keeps getting better and better. Keep up the good work! :trophy:
 
How did the distance/spread testing go? I've been eyeing some 240s and would love some more pictures. Also how often do you actually get to use your entire light setup?

I love the look of the 240s on the front bumper! Your build keeps getting better and better. Keep up the good work! :trophy:

The testing went well. The 240's throw so much light it's crazy. I have a couple of cell phone pics but should have proper pics on Thursday. I've used it a few times on some late night runs but definitely not for on road use.

Thanks for the compliments.
 
Just as a point of advance, don't stand infront of his lights when they turn on. HOLY CRAP, I'm pretty sure I'm still seeing burn marks wherever I look!
 
I got a great deal on a set of ICON rear piggybacks and lower shock shin guards that I couldn't pass up.

Before:
IMG_0150.jpg~original


After:
IMG_0155.jpg~original


IMG_0164.jpg~original


After my last offroading trip, my portable air compressor died on me midway through airing back up. I plan to replace it with either HD portable one from Overland Warehouse or hard mount one in my engine bay. Until then, I picked this up:

IMG_0174.jpg~original
 
Right after my last post, I was able to pick up and test the basic compressor from Overland Warehouse. Nice quality construction. The twin compressors make filling up my 33's pretty easy. Outperformed my MV50 that I had previously. A perfect backup to my Powertank.

I was able to take the truck out to Tahuya to play in some mud and water with a bunch of FJs from the blue room just after new years. I didn't take too many pics of my 4Runner since I was paying more attention to the FJ's. I have video from my dash cam but haven't edited anything yet. I learned a few things after this trip:

1. Body mount chop, body lift and pinch welds need to be done ASAP
2. Even with 33's, i'm rubbing my rear mud flaps like crazy
3. I really appreciate my sliders

This was also a chance to try a few new toys:

ARB deflator - ehhh...it works but not all that great. it's handy to have a gauge as you air down your tires but I'd like to try staun deflators to compare. Yes I am lazy!!! Plus until my knee surgery, squatting down hurts.

PowerTank w/ HD tire inflator - I love this thing!!! I was able to go from 20 psi to 35 psi on all 4 tires before an MV-50 was able to inflate a single 33" tire. Only problem now is to decide where to mount it. Picture of my 4Runner, a tacoma and a few of the FJ's at the end of the day. As you can see, I'm done while the others are still airing up:
IMG_0341.jpg~original


And last but not least Icon 2.5 Rear Piggybacks - going from the icon branded monotubes to these have been a dramatic improvement. On road the ride seem more controlled but more "plush" at the same time. Off road they continued to shine. The valving is where it's at. I'm sure the new ICON monotubes will feel exactly the same as these.

Now, do I need the remote resi for what I use it for? Probably not. But if given the choice between 2.5 remote resi or the 2.0 monotube at the same price point, which would you choose?

Here are some random pics from that day:

Only solo pic i took of mine which is boring
IMG_0335.jpg~original


Nice sticker
IMG_0329.jpg~original


The FJ the sticker was attached to
IMG_0337.jpg~original


Demello's new dual stage kick out sliders for the FJ - I wish they had this when I ordered mine
IMG_0338.jpg~original


Blue tape mod - we had a chuckle when he was applying it in the parking lot
IMG_0340.jpg~original


And proof that it works - photo courtesy of lmmmmm
IMG_1255-1.jpg~original
 

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