Dirtco's Adventure Thread
- Thread starter Dirtco
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Dirtco
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I haven't ran one in years, since I installed the full float kit to be exact. With the automatic and dual cases it stays in place just fine. But, since I'm redoing the rear brake line I've decided to install an electric line lock just in case. I won't be able to keep it on for an extended amount of time, but it will hold the truck for a few minutes if I get in a spot where I feel it's necessary.
Dirtco
New member
Thanks Chris! Here is another picture from a different angle, it's really hard to get decent pictures in my garage.
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derpiful
New member
Truly amazing. Looks like it's getting close!!
I am working on acquiring parts for a SAS on my '98 4Runner and had some thoughts about sway bars I was hoping you could help me with:
1. Did you run a rear sway bar before the rear chop? With or without, how did it handle on the street?
2. If you didn't have it before why did you decide to run one on the new rear-end?
3. What are your thoughts about not running a front sway bar? I know it would be super hard to fit in but curious if you notice.
As everyone else has said, thanks for sharing.
Leni
Dirtco
New member
Thanks Hayden! It's definitely getting closer, there's still a lot of details to wrap up but hopefully I'll get to test drive it soon!
Dirtco
New member
I removed the sway bars years ago, way before the SAS and it handled like your typical 3rd Gen 4Runner without sway bars (interesting at times but not horrible). Then I solid axle swapped the front of the 4Runner and added a ton of suspension travel, in order for the truck to sit level I had to run a rear coil spring that was 2" taller than an OME861. That amount of rear lift using the stock geometry made the rear suspension a little sketchy at times on the highway.
The new rear suspension should handle a 1000 times better, and in reality I probably don't need a rear sway bar (especially with how much lighter it is). But, it's a whole lot easier to build the rear suspension around it now than retrofit it down the road and at this point I'm so far down the rabbit hole that another $400 for the sway bar isn't going to break the bank. As for the front, it probably wouldn't hurt to have one but it's more work to fit than the rear.
4R4Trout
Member
Smart thinking right there. Awesome build Dirtco!!
Dirtco
New member
More progress…
I switched gears and worked on some wiring and the drivers interior area, I figured once it comes time to test drive it I won’t want to be dealing with that stuff. The original wiring wasn’t bad, but there was a couple issues. First, I couldn't reach the light switches when strapped in the 5 point harness, and with the door bars I would hit my knee on the switches getting in and out. Second, I added the Hyper-Spot A pillar lights and rear fog lights, so I needed to add even more switches. All of the wiring behind the driver seat had been tore into, so it just seemed like the time to come up with a better solution.
And a better solution is exactly what I found, the Switch-Pros SP-9100. I’m not going to lie, it’s expensive and I had a hard time adding it to my shopping cart but at the end of the day I’m happy I did it right. For those of you that don’t know it’s a fully programable switching system with more features than I’ll ever use. Hell, even the install and programing directions are like 10 pages long! I’m not going to get into all the details, you can Google or Youtube all the features for yourself if you're interested.
For ease of access and visibility I mounted the controller in the overhead sunglass holder, and I moved the remote winch switch to the same location.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49123004546/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_566"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49123004546_1afc033d97_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="fullsizeoutput_566"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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The main control box is mounted under the hood.
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With all the wiring completed and loose ends wrapped up I could reassemble the driver side interior area for the last time. I still need to block off the old switch holes, but that’s not very high on my list as of right now.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49123001741/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_565"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49123001741_473df5c760_b.jpg" width="799" height="1024" alt="fullsizeoutput_565"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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I switched gears and worked on some wiring and the drivers interior area, I figured once it comes time to test drive it I won’t want to be dealing with that stuff. The original wiring wasn’t bad, but there was a couple issues. First, I couldn't reach the light switches when strapped in the 5 point harness, and with the door bars I would hit my knee on the switches getting in and out. Second, I added the Hyper-Spot A pillar lights and rear fog lights, so I needed to add even more switches. All of the wiring behind the driver seat had been tore into, so it just seemed like the time to come up with a better solution.
And a better solution is exactly what I found, the Switch-Pros SP-9100. I’m not going to lie, it’s expensive and I had a hard time adding it to my shopping cart but at the end of the day I’m happy I did it right. For those of you that don’t know it’s a fully programable switching system with more features than I’ll ever use. Hell, even the install and programing directions are like 10 pages long! I’m not going to get into all the details, you can Google or Youtube all the features for yourself if you're interested.
For ease of access and visibility I mounted the controller in the overhead sunglass holder, and I moved the remote winch switch to the same location.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49123004546/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_566"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49123004546_1afc033d97_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="fullsizeoutput_566"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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The main control box is mounted under the hood.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49122524588/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_567"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49122524588_b1fcb36a0d_b.jpg" width="1024" height="767" alt="fullsizeoutput_567"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
With all the wiring completed and loose ends wrapped up I could reassemble the driver side interior area for the last time. I still need to block off the old switch holes, but that’s not very high on my list as of right now.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49123001741/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_565"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49123001741_473df5c760_b.jpg" width="799" height="1024" alt="fullsizeoutput_565"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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Last edited:
Dirtco
New member
Bump stop cans are in! I was a little worried about using tubing so I cut some steel strap and welded it vertically, then notched the tubing out and welded it all together. Each side has six vertical welds, kind of like a miniature I-beam, there’s also 1/4” thick gussets directly above the bump stop.
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And I added an additional tube support and gusset to help spread the load into the chassis.
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The axle landing pad is in place (at least one side), I built it around a 1/2” piece of HDPE. That is the same material as the strike pad on the bump stops, I figured there would be less wear and if there is an issue I can always make a steel pad since it is removable. I can also change the thickness of the material if I need to fine tune the suspension.
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And I added an additional tube support and gusset to help spread the load into the chassis.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49170601358/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_571"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49170601358_b8c4378ee2_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="fullsizeoutput_571"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8”></script>
The axle landing pad is in place (at least one side), I built it around a 1/2” piece of HDPE. That is the same material as the strike pad on the bump stops, I figured there would be less wear and if there is an issue I can always make a steel pad since it is removable. I can also change the thickness of the material if I need to fine tune the suspension.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49171074471/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_573"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49171074471_01c29a13a0_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="fullsizeoutput_573"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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Dirtco
New member
Fuel tank is in, it’s a “Tanks Inc” 16 gallon, baffled, fuel injected model. I upgraded to the stainless steel model, it was more money but it should hopefully last the life of the 4Runner without any issues. I didn’t realize it was polished stainless when I ordered it!
The pump assembly is specific to this tank, and I ordered it with a 190 LPH Walboro pump just like the URD 7th injector kit. I’ll probably have to come up with a better, easier to access fuel filler down the road, but for the time being it will work.
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The pump assembly is specific to this tank, and I ordered it with a 190 LPH Walboro pump just like the URD 7th injector kit. I’ll probably have to come up with a better, easier to access fuel filler down the road, but for the time being it will work.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49170591743/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_56b"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49170591743_402a8047bb_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="fullsizeoutput_56b"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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Dirtco
New member
I plan on having some aluminum diamond plate “fenders” to at least minimize the amount of mud/snow being throw at the rear window. So I added some small gussets and tabs for attachment points.
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Dirtco
New member
AccuTune Offroad
New member
Looking good!
Dirtco
New member
As usual this thread has been pretty quiet lately, but rest assured that is not due to a lack of progress on the 4Runner. I’ve been working my ass off to try to get this thing up and going, and I’ve made some pretty major steps in that direction in the last couple weeks!
The first big hurtle, it starts and runs! I got the fuel tank installed, plumbed, and wired. Then I had to address the muffler; my old Flowmaster muffler was too big to fit in front of the 4 link crossmember, so I had to come up with another solution. It turns out that Flowmaster makes special “Race” mufflers that are tiny, so I ended up ordering the 50 series race muffler. It was the “quietest” race muffler I could find that fit my application (2.5” tubing). I know it’s going to be louder than my old 60 Series muffler, but hopefully it’s not obnoxious.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49457188593/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_57e"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49457188593_b9a4c45693_b.jpg" width="1024" height="705" alt="fullsizeoutput_57e"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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The first big hurtle, it starts and runs! I got the fuel tank installed, plumbed, and wired. Then I had to address the muffler; my old Flowmaster muffler was too big to fit in front of the 4 link crossmember, so I had to come up with another solution. It turns out that Flowmaster makes special “Race” mufflers that are tiny, so I ended up ordering the 50 series race muffler. It was the “quietest” race muffler I could find that fit my application (2.5” tubing). I know it’s going to be louder than my old 60 Series muffler, but hopefully it’s not obnoxious.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49457188593/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_57e"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49457188593_b9a4c45693_b.jpg" width="1024" height="705" alt="fullsizeoutput_57e"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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Dirtco
New member
The next major hurtle, and this is a big one, the 4Runner is officially setting on four tires and holding itself up. That’s right it’s a roller!
I swapped out the front springs, back to the original configuration that Accutune set up for me, this gives me more up travel and better handling in faster terrain.
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As you can see in the pictures the rear suspension needs to drop down about 2”, but it’s still pretty light in the back as there is only a couple gallons of fuel, no tools or recovery gear, no fridge, and no roof. I figure it will drop at least an inch, and if I need to swap springs down the road I can.
To make it drivable all I need is to build rear brake lines, bleed the brakes, and install the rear driveshaft! But, I had to force myself to change gears and take care of some other stuff before I make it drivable, the problem is I know myself too well and once it’s drivable I’m going to want to drive it (duh). Well, the last thing I need to do is make more work for myself, or not have it be safe. So there’s a few things I want to care of before it leaves the garage.
The first is the tires, while I’m not going to say they caused the accident, they sure didn’t help prevent it. They are awful in icy conditions, and they are pretty much brand new. So I broke out my tire groover and went to town. I have three of the four tires done, and due to how hard the rubber compound is I would say each tire took roughly 2.5 hours.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49457268738/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_584"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49457268738_6bb2edbc8c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="fullsizeoutput_584"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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I swapped out the front springs, back to the original configuration that Accutune set up for me, this gives me more up travel and better handling in faster terrain.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/156493849@N03/49457972022/in/dateposted-public/" title="fullsizeoutput_582"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49457972022_89e2cd2842_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="fullsizeoutput_582"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset=“utf-8"></script>
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As you can see in the pictures the rear suspension needs to drop down about 2”, but it’s still pretty light in the back as there is only a couple gallons of fuel, no tools or recovery gear, no fridge, and no roof. I figure it will drop at least an inch, and if I need to swap springs down the road I can.
To make it drivable all I need is to build rear brake lines, bleed the brakes, and install the rear driveshaft! But, I had to force myself to change gears and take care of some other stuff before I make it drivable, the problem is I know myself too well and once it’s drivable I’m going to want to drive it (duh). Well, the last thing I need to do is make more work for myself, or not have it be safe. So there’s a few things I want to care of before it leaves the garage.
The first is the tires, while I’m not going to say they caused the accident, they sure didn’t help prevent it. They are awful in icy conditions, and they are pretty much brand new. So I broke out my tire groover and went to town. I have three of the four tires done, and due to how hard the rubber compound is I would say each tire took roughly 2.5 hours.
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Dirtco
New member
I also got all the holes filled on the driver side front and rear door, along with some quick body work and a couple coats of bed liner. It's not perfect, but for a trail truck it's more than acceptable.
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