DIY belly pan plate pics

[alia176]

I'm looking for some DIY belly skid plate pics for the plate that is traditionally called the "second plate" from the front. This one goes under the Tcase/Tranny area.

I have a 1/4" alum plate that is fairly long and would like to make it work for the second skid plate. Before anyone asks, I have no idea if this is 5051 or 6062!! Already got a Asfir front skid plate so the area under the engine, all the way to the cross member is covered.

It looks like most of the belly pan skid plates simply anchors themselves to the same holes in the cross member that the first skid plate uses. I'd like to know what folks are using for supporting the second skid plate toward the rear. I assume y'all are building your own cross member and this is where I'd like some pics/ideas.

I uploaded couple of pics just for S&G.

Thanks.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I'm a bit confused as to which skid plate you're talking about but here goes:

The transmission skid traditionally is completely flat with no crossmember built in.

The transfer case skid needs a crossmember to support the backside, which is what you're asking to see pictures of I think?

I already had the RCI front skid, but made the T-case and transmission from 3/16" steel:

Very preliminary Solidworks design:










Doesn't get any higher-clearance than that.





My brother's FJ's T-Case seemed a lot smaller and pushed forward more than my V8 T4R's with the big actuator sticking out the back, so it made mine harder to make a crossmember for.

 

[alia176]

I'm referring to the Tcase skid plate and your pics are spot on. Wish I had access to a bender, wow that stiffens things up nicely! One of the shops in town charges $15/bend so I do a bender option if so choose.

Thank you sir!

 

[t4rghost]

I'm a bit confused as to which skid plate you're talking about but here goes:

The transmission skid traditionally is completely flat with no crossmember built in.

The transfer case skid needs a crossmember to support the backside, which is what you're asking to see pictures of I think?

I already had the RCI front skid, but made the T-case and transmission from 3/16" steel:

Very preliminary Solidworks design:

My brother's FJ's T-Case seemed a lot smaller and pushed forward more than my V8 T4R's with the big actuator sticking out the back, so it made mine harder to make a crossmember for.

Would you mind sending me a step file of those skids? They look nice! I've been thinking about making some ever since I sold my RCI skids.

 

[Hi-desertT4R]

I'm a bit confused as to which skid plate you're talking about but here goes:

The transmission skid traditionally is completely flat with no crossmember built in.

The transfer case skid needs a crossmember to support the backside, which is what you're asking to see pictures of I think?

I already had the RCI front skid, but made the T-case and transmission from 3/16" steel:

Very preliminary Solidworks design:










Doesn't get any higher-clearance than that.





My brother's FJ's T-Case seemed a lot smaller and pushed forward more than my V8 T4R's with the big actuator sticking out the back, so it made mine harder to make a crossmember for.

I’m DIY’ing my own skid plates too. My big question is with how you installed your transmission skid with the support bars removed. It seems that with the sheet metal spanning the gap between the crossmembers that it’ll be more than rigid enough. Also with tying in another crossmember behind the t-case too. Any input on this years later?

 

[Inv4drZm]

I’m DIY’ing my own skid plates too. My big question is with how you installed your transmission skid with the support bars removed. It seems that with the sheet metal spanning the gap between the crossmembers that it’ll be more than rigid enough. Also with tying in another crossmember behind the t-case too. Any input on this years later?

They've held up great to heavy wheeling, somewhat surprisingly.

With one caveat, if you try to remove them they are tricky to reinstall, the rear skid requires a floor jack to 'press' in place as the 2 tubes have flattened a bit over time.

Middle skid is bent and mangled but still does its job.

There are a few strength improvements I could make in hindsight but I have no huge reason to swap them out at this point.

 

[Hi-desertT4R]

They've held up great to heavy wheeling, somewhat surprisingly.

With one caveat, if you try to remove them they are tricky to reinstall, the rear skid requires a floor jack to 'press' in place as the 2 tubes have flattened a bit over time.

Middle skid is bent and mangled but still does its job.

There are a few strength improvements I could make in hindsight but I have no huge reason to swap them out at this point.

From the looks of it you do way more hardcore wheeling than I do haha. The steel I sourced is 1/4” so it should hold up to any abuse I put it through. Thanks for the pics and feedback.

 

[alia176]

From the looks of it you do way more hardcore wheeling than I do haha. The steel I sourced is 1/4” so it should hold up to any abuse I put it through. Thanks for the pics and feedback.

No kidding, the total chaos LCAs are a good indication of this rig getting properly exercised.

 

[Hi-desertT4R]

[MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION] did you ever diy or buy skids? I’m in the process of building mine. I need to build the crossmember and t-case skid still but I’m almost done with the front and mid skids.

 

[alia176]

[MENTION=119796]alia176[/MENTION] did you ever diy or buy skids? I’m in the process of building mine. I need to build the crossmember and t-case skid still but I’m almost done with the front and mid skids.

I dropped the ball on the Tcase skid plate and still would like to build my own some day now that I have access to a 100T break.

 

[Canuck4thgen]

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