DIY for Front Axle Replacement?

[mjquillici]

I am looking for a how-to for front axle replacement. The CV boots are in terrible shape and have been torn for a long while. If someone could point me in the direction of a replacement DIY on the forum, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[92-SR5]

It's a pretty straight forward task. There should be ~6 bolts holding each CV to the front diff. You have to take your hubs off to access the bolt holing them in on the splined end. Can't remember but there might be a C-clip on the splines, but that might be only in solid axles. From there you just wrestle them out and put the new ones in in reverse order.

 

[mjquillici]

Got it. Is there a DIY on the forumn somewhere, by chance? Also, what brand of replacement axles do you all recommend?

 

[92-SR5]

Don't know about an actual write up, you might try searching yotatech or something. OEM is best but very spendy. If you aren't wheeling it hard, the basic parts house CVs are good enough.

 

[Hyde802]

The Factory service manual is a pretty good DIY. You can still download them from the wayback machine link in the Manual thread.

 

[goatfarmer]

Self described medium maintenance and repair category. Found it somewhat involved; primarily because once the 4 runner was off the ground noticed couple items on the front suspension that needed to be replaced. Figured since disassembling the front axle pretty much exposed might as well do both and rebuild the front suspension.

Compiles a list of items needed and had the local auto parts store provid estimate. Then took 90 T4R SR5 4X4 w/ auto to shop and got a quote, which was about twice, in not more, for the cost of a 'do it myself'; needless the say the 'cheapskate' side of me it was a no brainer. Decided on doing one side at a time in event I forgot how to reassemble.

Suggest either check with local library or online for the repair manual in the Suspension/Axle (SA) chapter; certainly would make the project less time consuming and stressful. Anyhow, had an urge to chime in.

 

[sam24th]

Its not insanely hard or anything, helped a buddy do it on his a year ago or so. Pretty straight forward. Here is the shop manual thread incase you want to download it. Id download it jsut for safe keeping incase you needed later on.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/gener...actory-service-manual-downloads-read-now.html

 

[mjquillici]

Awesome. Thanks, guys. Also, if the hubs don't appear to be leaking grease, is there any reason to replace the axle seals/bearings while I'm in there?

 

[541joseph]

Awesome. Thanks, guys. Also, if the hubs don't appear to be leaking grease, is there any reason to replace the axle seals/bearings while I'm in there?

Are you getting any noise from the wheel bearings? And have they been replaced since you've owned it? Well how long have you owned it?

 

[mjquillici]

Nope. Good and quiet. I haven't owned it long.

But I am thinking of converting to manual hubs, while I'm replacing the axles. From what I've gathered, it's a pretty simple conversion. . .

 

[541joseph]

Ya I wouldn't bother with wheel bearings then just keep them clean as you can

 

[mjquillici]

Quick Question: Do the studs where the CV axle bolts to the front differential come out? I have everything ready to go, but i can't seem to get the axle clear of the studs to drop the inner end. It won't slide far enough to get it off the studs. Frustrating!!

 

[mjquillici]

I'm thinking that I need to separate the front ball joint that controls the steelring to allow the hub to pivot away... Is that correct? Also, any tips for separate the ball joint?

 

[Hyde802]

The studs are splined. Use a long pipe/punch and hammer them out, Should only have to get 3 our and the cv slip off. Or you can pop the ball joint. Either works.

 

[541joseph]

Yes you are correct I just talked to a mechanic about doing it and he said he had to pull the ball joint off

 

[mjquillici]

Just got the driver side put back together. That took longer than I'd care to admit. . .Anyway, removing the the four bolts that hold the lower ball joint, as well as the top bolt to the sway bar link gave me enough play to work the CV out.

Tomorrow night -- Passenger CV and live hub to manual hub conversion.

 

[mjquillici]

I'm working on the passenger side right now, and I noticed that there is play in the bushing/gromet where the sway bar is bolted to the frame, aft of the front axle, which allows the sway bar to clunk around. I'm assuming that the sway bar should be held solidly, and that the bushing/gromet should be replaced. Yes?

 

[KidVermicious]

That sway doesn't do much. If you wheel, just pull it off the truck and drive carefully for a couple days until you get used to having it missing. But if you don't need the extra flex, then new swaybar bushings will certainly help it perform better.

 

[mjquillici]

Thanks!

 

[mjquillici]

Passenger side done. Phew. Thanks for the help, everyone.