Do I need to an alternator, and which one??

zooroadbaja

zooroadbaja

New member
Like the title says, curious when I need to up the alternator from the factory one. Shortly here I'll be running HIDs 12.5a, possibly a 40" LED bar 20a, Fridge says Power 75 W/1 A, Memphis Belle amp 130a, Air Compressor 30a, Engo winch 60a-340a depending on line pull, and might upgrade to dual batteries if the fridge needs it. Will the factory one keep up with the needs of all these things.

If I do need to upgrade I was just going to get the CS-144. I noticed they make a 140amp and 200amp. Would there be anything wrong getting the 200amp one? I found a new one on CL for a good price.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Reading about the CS-144 swap I saw that the CS is a 6 groove, and Toyota is a 4 groove. I found a 4 groove for a CS, would this pulley work? Or does the 6 groove work?

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the 6 groove works. i'll take A picture tomorrow if you want. just make sure you get a 144 with 6/12 clocking. i got one with 7/12 and i had to cut and re-shape the entire f@cking alternator bracket
 
revenantdead said:
the 6 groove works. i'll take A picture tomorrow if you want. just make sure you get a 144 with 6/12 clocking. i got one with 7/12 and i had to cut and re-shape the entire f@cking alternator bracket
Click to expand...

Thanks for heads up on the clock, how come you upgraded and what CS-144 amperage did you get?
 
zooroadbaja said:
Fridge I think its 50w, 1,500w system,

Any help would be appreciated.
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Holy cow, 1500W? from 12V? That's insane, you'd burn up everything. It would draw 125 Amps, that is way too much.
50W no problem, that's only a little over 4 amps. As for those other things, they really don't draw much. I run way more than that with a 95amp alternator, and I use two batteries.

Here is a watts to amps calculator if you want to check all your stuff.

Volts/Amps/Watts Converter

:couch2:
 
IBallEngineer said:
Holy cow, 1500W? from 12V? That's insane, you'd burn up everything. It would draw 125 Amps, that is way too much.
50W no problem, that's only a little over 4 amps. As for those other things, they really don't draw much. I run way more than that with a 95amp alternator, and I use two batteries.

Here is a watts to amps calculator if you want to check all your stuff.

Volts/Amps/Watts Converter

:couch2:
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity what are you running? The amp for the stereo is fused at 180a. So instead of doing the alt. I should spend the money on dual batterys? How is your dual setup setup on you 4Runner?
 
zooroadbaja said:
Thanks for heads up on the clock, how come you upgraded and what CS-144 amperage did you get?
Click to expand...

140 amp standard. i'm running 4 100 watt hella 500s and 2 100 watt ipf 868s.
if i run everything all at once it still leaves 80 amps for the system to use. i intend to switch my cheapo 55watt auxilliary reverse lights over to low draw LED floods. switching over the reverse lights is going to free up just shy of 10 amps.
 
zooroadbaja said:
Out of curiosity what are you running? The amp for the stereo is fused at 180a. So instead of doing the alt. I should spend the money on dual batterys? How is your dual setup setup on you 4Runner?
Click to expand...

Well the two battery set up is in my Land Cruiser, and I have 8 55W rock lights, 2 55W rear facing floods on my roof rack, 2 35W fog lamps, 2 55W driving lamps, and 2 9" LiteForce HID spots(can't remember the W rating). If I turn everything on my alternator is putting out 83 amps, but not at idle. It needs a little kick to keep up. Having two batteries doesn't dictate you MUST have a bigger alternator necessarily, but having the ability to recharge and keep up with the load is nice, especially if you run the batteries down using the fridge then decide to go night crawlin'.

Now winching is another story, electric winches eat up juice like crazy. I run a hydraulic so I don't have to worry about it, but if you do a lot of winching, I could see upgrading the alternator. Or if you wanted to do some welding, then I could see getting a 200Amp alternator, otherwise it isn't needed.
I recently converted to HID on my headlamps, and I'd like to start swapping out for LED on my rock lights to get my amperage draw down.

:couch2:
 
zooroadbaja said:
How is your dual setup setup on you 4Runner?
Click to expand...

I didn't address the dual set up because it wasn't on the runner, but I should at least tell you what I have.

I run them in parallel which means the Negative terminals are both connected to ground, and the Positive terminals are connected to each other. I used a continuous duty solenoid in line between the Positive terminals. This solenoid is energized when I turn the ignition on, so both batteries get charged. With the ignition off, they are isolated from each other because the Positives are no longer connected. I have a switch on the dash which is powered by the auxiliary battery, in the event my main battery dies, I push the switch and jump start my self. I run all the radio and amp functions through the main battery, the only thing I have isolated on the aux battery is my compressor and my jump start(fork lift style) connector.

I don't trust solid state battery isolators.

:couch2:
 
BrianSD_42 said:
What ????????

What stereo system is fused for 180 amps?

My 550W RMS Alpine has (2) 25W fuses.

Have you done the big three yet?
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Yeah, I did the big 3, used 1/0. The amp is a Memphis Belle 5 chan iirc its 100w x 4 chan @4ohms, and 1,100w x 1 chan @1ohm. Has 6 30a fuses on it.
 
zooroadbaja said:
Do some welding what do you mean? Would upgrading the alt to a 200 amp hurt anything?
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Welding, you can take a few, usually 2 or 3 batteries and connect them in series to create an arc welder. Also there are some aftermarket welding units that can run off a high output alternator. Premier and MOBI I think.

As for hurting anything, if your wire from the Alt to the battery is big enough, you would be fine. The amperage is like water, only filling empty containers and stopping when they are full.

:couch2:
 
IBallEngineer said:
I didn't address the dual set up because it wasn't on the runner, but I should at least tell you what I have.

I run them in parallel which means the Negative terminals are both connected to ground, and the Positive terminals are connected to each other. I used a continuous duty solenoid in line between the Positive terminals. This solenoid is energized when I turn the ignition on, so both batteries get charged. With the ignition off, they are isolated from each other because the Positives are no longer connected. I have a switch on the dash which is powered by the auxiliary battery, in the event my main battery dies, I push the switch and jump start my self. I run all the radio and amp functions through the main battery, the only thing I have isolated on the aux battery is my compressor and my jump start(fork lift style) connector.

I don't trust solid state battery isolators.


:couch2:
Click to expand...
this is the exact dual battery set up i plan on running.
 
zooroadbaja said:
Yeah, I did the big 3, used 1/0. The amp is a Memphis Belle 5 chan iirc its 100w x 4 chan @4ohms, and 1,100w x 1 chan @1ohm. Has 6 30a fuses on it.
Click to expand...

6 30a fuses is way different than 180a fuse. But I get it, you got a big load there. I doubt you draw anywhere near 180amps at anytime, just like the vehicle itself may have 15 20a fuses, it will never see a 300a draw.

I noticed your OP no longer says 1500w for the fridge, is 75w accurate? Because that to just over 6a, very manageable. Assuming a 100amp hour battery, and a hot day where your fridge ran all the time, you would still get over 16 hours of battery life, more if the fridge ran less. Here is a link to a better explanation.

http://www.batteryweb.com/pdf/inverter_battery_sizing_faq.pdf

:couch2:
 
IBallEngineer said:
I noticed your OP no longer says 1500w for the fridge, is 75w accurate? Because that to just over 6a, very manageable. Assuming a 100amp hour battery, and a hot day where your fridge ran all the time, you would still get over 16 hours of battery life, more if the fridge ran less. Here is a link to a better explanation.

http://www.batteryweb.com/pdf/inverter_battery_sizing_faq.pdf

:couch2:
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting that! Over the weekend I killed my battery and had the truck die even while keeping it revved at 2000rpm from the draw of all my lights and running the winch (luckily I carry a jump start unit with me). I was figuring I would want to upgrade the alternator, which they are considerably more expensive than I would want to spend. I forgot a dual battery setup would work, and probably better since I just run high amperage for a short period of time.
 
IBallEngineer said:
6 30a fuses is way different than 180a fuse. But I get it, you got a big load there. I doubt you draw anywhere near 180amps at anytime, just like the vehicle itself may have 15 20a fuses, it will never see a 300a draw.

I noticed your OP no longer says 1500w for the fridge, is 75w accurate? Because that to just over 6a, very manageable. Assuming a 100amp hour battery, and a hot day where your fridge ran all the time, you would still get over 16 hours of battery life, more if the fridge ran less. Here is a link to a better explanation.

http://www.batteryweb.com/pdf/inverter_battery_sizing_faq.pdf

:couch2:
Click to expand...

Appreciate the feed back I think you miss understood what I originally wrote. I said the fridge is 50w, the system is 1500w as in the stereo amp. Yeah I doubt it ever sees that, I believe that's max power which it doesn't play at.
 
Skidmarcx said:
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-out...r&make=Toyota&year=1998&engine=3.4L+V6+5VZ-FE

One of these with proper cable upgrades and be done with it... they're legit units all built from scratch with high current diodes... no rewound factory bullshit
Click to expand...

For the price of one of those I could do the CS-144 brand new oem gm, and a dual battery setup. And if I ever damage the alternator I wont be out $500 instead only $150. But they're definitely nice as well as the mean greens.
 
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