Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

[Crikeymike]

Thanks for the write-up and review on these as generally not many people go this route.

It's the route I plan to take but I'm torn between just doing the front coils or doing front coils + struts + rear shocks.

Front coils only would be least expensive, but then I'd either have to do the install myself, which I kind of hate doing spring swaps on struts, or pay someone else to install them, which may end up costing as much as assembled coils/struts + rear shocks directly from Dobinson anyway!

And also, as you mentioned, the "what if" of just doing the better shocks/struts up front and seeing how much difference it makes.

Yep, labor if you have to pay for it adds up very fast. I can see why probably half of what we sell gets pre-assembled because $90 of labor for strut assembly and doing the rest yourself is easier to swallow than $400+ for a suspension install.

 

[@jrfordlandia]

Soooo, I was going to do 302/325 to get a raised and leveled 2.5” on my 18 SR5P that has 3rd row seating (150 lbs) but now I’m wondering if I should or not.

I currently have 5100s all around. A few folks on the FB groups said 5100s and Dobinsons don’t mix well because the springs are designed to carry weight and the 5100s are a softer valve shock so performance will suffer and my 5100s will break down and leak more quickly. Is that true? My 5100s don’t even have 1500 miles on them. Don’t want to take a loss on those so soon.

Thoughts? How many of you are running 5100s with Dobinsons and have you run into these types of issues?

@Dobinsons_Mike - would you recommend I go with the 300/325 or the 302/325? If I went with the 300 over the 302 in the front, then my rear would sit higher up than the front, correct? The 300s show 2” and the 302s show 2.5”. The 325s for the rear show 2” to 2.25”. I also see the 505s for the rear which show 1.25” to 1.5”. I have no idea what way to go..? [emoji20]

I don’t plan on having any heavy modifications to the front or the rear. I wanted a leveled 2.5” with as little rake as possible (150 lb third row seats). Any advice you could offer would be appreciated, sir.


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I was wondering the same. I have a 2018 SR5 with 3rd row. I’m aiming for 2-2.5” of level/lift with no rake. Thinking I should go 2.5” to plan ahead for bigger tires later. I’m guessing we should do 325 instead of 550? @Dobinsons_Mike

 

[Crikeymike]

I was wondering the same. I have a 2018 SR5 with 3rd row. I’m aiming for 2-2.5” of level/lift with no rake. Thinking I should go 2.5” to plan ahead for bigger tires later. I’m guessing we should do 325 instead of 550? @Dobinsons_Mike

You can do 2.5" front with C59-302, then C59-599 for 1" rear (the most level), but only if you don't ever load the rear. You don't want the rear to get lower than the front.

Or run C59-505 in the rear for 1.5". Most do 2.5" front and 1.5" and are happy with the stance and rake. Add taller rear coils if you plan to add more weight, or need to carry gear from time to time or tow.

Rake is in the vehicles from the factory to be able to support rear loads and towing, so keep that in mind when leveling a vehicle.

 

[91324]

You can do 2.5" front with C59-302, then C59-599 for 1" rear (the most level), but only if you don't ever load the rear. You don't want the rear to get lower than the front.



Or run C59-505 in the rear for 1.5". Most do 2.5" front and 1.5" and are happy with the stance and rake. Add taller rear coils if you plan to add more weight, or need to carry gear from time to time or tow.



Rake is in the vehicles from the factory to be able to support rear loads and towing, so keep that in mind when leveling a vehicle.

Thanks @dobinsons_mike. I ordered 302/325 after speaking to someone on the Dobinsons IG account yesterday. It should supposedly give me 2.5 / 1.77 (45mm) which should be fairly level, I hope.


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[MAST4R]

....

By the way,

How does the valving of the 705 rear shocks compare to that of the MRR rear shocks? Assuming the same rear springs, which one would provide a more comfortable ride in the rear seat and in what conditions (like pavement vs desert terrain at moderate speeds). Are there scenarios in which comfort is reversed or is one of the two types of shocks always more comfortable than the other? Thanks!

 

[Crikeymike]

By the way,

How does the valving of the 705 rear shocks compare to that of the MRR rear shocks? Assuming the same rear springs, which one would provide a more comfortable ride in the rear seat and in what conditions (like pavement vs desert terrain at moderate speeds). Are there scenarios in which comfort is reversed or is one of the two types of shocks always more comfortable than the other? Thanks!

On the road, they would be virtually the same. But off road at higher speed, that is where the MRR can respond and adapt faster to the terrain, and being able to absorb bigger hits better due to the reservoir. No, comfort would never be reversed, one wouldn't really be more comfortable than the other, unless you want to drive 8hr days on corrugated roads, then the MRR would be your best bet. It's all about what type of driving you want to do.

 

[MAST4R]

On the road, they would be virtually the same. But off road at higher speed, that is where the MRR can respond and adapt faster to the terrain, and being able to absorb bigger hits better due to the reservoir. No, comfort would never be reversed, one wouldn't really be more comfortable than the other, unless you want to drive 8hr days on corrugated roads, then the MRR would be your best bet. It's all about what type of driving you want to do.

Thanks! So, on rough terrain at say, 10-30 mph, they would feel similarly?

And this means that the MRRs are more in line with the feel of 705 than of 701?

Thanks again!

 

[Crikeymike]

Thanks! So, on rough terrain at say, 10-30 mph, they would feel similarly?

And this means that the MRRs are more in line with the feel of 705 than of 701?

Thanks again!

We make MRR's with 701 and 705 valving, so the valving comparison isn't really valid.

Yes, they would feel similar unless you're going through big articulation bumps/woops, etc. If you take a twin tube 705 and a twin tube MRR, they're valved as close as possible, but one shock operates differently, so they're never going to be "the same"

 

[MAST4R]

We make MRR's with 701 and 705 valving, so the valving comparison isn't really valid.

Yes, they would feel similar unless you're going through big articulation bumps/woops, etc. If you take a twin tube 705 and a twin tube MRR, they're valved as close as possible, but one shock operates differently, so they're never going to be "the same"

Oh, I did not know that you have the two styles of valving for the MRR as well. That helps. Thanks!

 

[Anand]

more pics after it settles (and with a better angle); but this is the 300/574 & 327/701 combo w/ 265/70/17s...

In addition to skids & sliders, other added weight is the LFD full steel roof rack, second battery/C4 Fab tray, rear storage w/ 4 front runner boxes, fridge, and fridge slide.

 

[AND]

Yes thats the 1s im running this is the ony pic i got on level ground.

What springs do you have in the front? is the winch installed in this picture?

thanks in advance

 

[Crikeymike]

more pics after it settles (and with a better angle); but this is the 300/574 & 327/701 combo w/ 265/70/17s...

In addition to skids & sliders, other added weight is the LFD full steel roof rack, second battery/C4 Fab tray, rear storage w/ 4 front runner boxes, fridge, and fridge slide.

That looks really good!!!

 

[Joelicious]

trade 314 for 354

Hey all!

I purchased a set of 314 springs, but I (stupidly) purchased an ARB Bumper. so if anyone has 354's id be willing to trade. have not been used

 

[Fried_man7]

You can do 2.5" front with C59-302, then C59-599 for 1" rear (the most level), but only if you don't ever load the rear. You don't want the rear to get lower than the front.



Or run C59-505 in the rear for 1.5". Most do 2.5" front and 1.5" and are happy with the stance and rake. Add taller rear coils if you plan to add more weight, or need to carry gear from time to time or tow.



Rake is in the vehicles from the factory to be able to support rear loads and towing, so keep that in mind when leveling a vehicle.

Mike - so if I wanted to go 2inches all around, keep the factory rake, because you know, why screw with it and I like it, go with 302fronts/325rear? And yes I am going to get 700/705 struts. I guess the major questions:
1) do you recommend UCAs? I do desire larger tires than 265. Will this lift look silly with 265s? Money is money though.
2) is there a different set up than what I outlined up top to get to as close to 2 all around and keeping factory rake specs?

I also have other questions about purchasing. Like the e-commerce store vs amazon, I have amazon gift cards to use toward some of this.

Jf


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[Crikeymike]

Mike - so if I wanted to go 2inches all around, keep the factory rake, because you know, why screw with it and I like it, go with 302fronts/325rear? And yes I am going to get 700/705 struts. I guess the major questions:
1) do you recommend UCAs? I do desire larger tires than 265. Will this lift look silly with 265s? Money is money though.
2) is there a different set up than what I outlined up top to get to as close to 2 all around and keeping factory rake specs?

I also have other questions about purchasing. Like the e-commerce store vs amazon, I have amazon gift cards to use toward some of this.

Jf


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300 front and 325 rear is 2" front and rear. I'd probably go with 2" front and 1.5" rear (505's) so that the rear isn't too high, as factory rake is about 2" already.

No, you won't need UCA's at that height. Especially with stock tires, there's no need for them.

If you have Amazon cards, you'll have to use Amazon to buy them...

 

[Ag111]

A long time follower of this forum but a first time poster.

Got a 2015 4runner SR5, 4x4, no KDSS, everything is stock. 85% Daily Driver, 15% Alpine FS roads in Colorado.

Would like to put a 3"/2" Dobinson kit on it with new UCAs and Diff drop. Plan is to run the KO2 34x10.5R17s on stock wheels. Looking for a comfortable ride that is similar in a lot of ways to the factory ride. No immediate plans for additional armor, bumper, or other heavy additions.

Priorities:
1) Improved ground clearance
2) Comfortable ride (this will be my wife's DD)

What exact components would accomplish this in the Dobinson system?

thanks!
Mat

 

[Ag111]

I guess I should also say that I'm still undecided between the KO2 34/10.5R17s and the 285/70/R17s.

Also, when I take this beast out it is with several hundred pounds of gear & ice chests in the back (im a hunter). I am self-conscious about the reverse rake so maybe i need 2.25 or 2.5" in the back? or heavier rear coils?

thanks for helping out a newb.

Mat

 

[Crikeymike]

A long time follower of this forum but a first time poster.

Got a 2015 4runner SR5, 4x4, no KDSS, everything is stock. 85% Daily Driver, 15% Alpine FS roads in Colorado.

Would like to put a 3"/2" Dobinson kit on it with new UCAs and Diff drop. Plan is to run the KO2 34x10.5R17s on stock wheels. Looking for a comfortable ride that is similar in a lot of ways to the factory ride. No immediate plans for additional armor, bumper, or other heavy additions.

Priorities:
1) Improved ground clearance
2) Comfortable ride (this will be my wife's DD)

What exact components would accomplish this in the Dobinson system?

thanks!
Mat

I guess I should also say that I'm still undecided between the KO2 34/10.5R17s and the 285/70/R17s.

Also, when I take this beast out it is with several hundred pounds of gear & ice chests in the back (im a hunter). I am self-conscious about the reverse rake so maybe i need 2.25 or 2.5" in the back? or heavier rear coils?

thanks for helping out a newb.

Mat

Ok, without constant weight, here's what I suggest
C59-300
GS59-574
DD59-527K
UCA59-002K
C59-325 for 2" medium rating, or C59-327 for heavy load rating (use if you load up very often)
GS59-705

That's 3" front and 2" rear with all the parts you'll need. You can add top mounts and strut assembly on our website if you want them preassembled.

 

[htrddah]

I just got bilstein 5100s for all the way around on 2018 and Dobison C59-448 for the front and C59-325 for the back. Hoping that truck sits more level but raised and kind of keeps its factory ride. I'm going to change UCAs while it's apart just so I don't have to do it again later. Is this a good set up? To raise it close to 3" in the front and close to 2" in the back? I got JBA UCAs to put on to make easy to get alignment right.

 

[Crikeymike]

I just got bilstein 5100s for all the way around on 2018 and Dobison C59-448 for the front and C59-325 for the back. Hoping that truck sits more level but raised and kind of keeps its factory ride. I'm going to change UCAs while it's apart just so I don't have to do it again later. Is this a good set up? To raise it close to 3" in the front and close to 2" in the back? I got JBA UCAs to put on to make easy to get alignment right.

Yes, there are several other forum guys running that combo of parts with good results.

You'll still have a little bit of rake left with the 2" coils in the rear, but it's a good idea to have some in case you load up with gear for trips or whatever.