Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

You'd be better off running those 302s at the 1st clip up for 3" then going to a 1" rear coil, the C59-599s. To remove rake completely, the rear has to be lifted 2" less than the front.

5100s shouldn't be used with lifted coils any more than the first clip up. It can damage the strut as well as take away all down travel


Ok, Thank you so much mike! I appreciate it.
 
Hi Mike. I have a 2015 limited with leaking XREAS (got 116K miles which seems pretty good). I’m looking to minimally raise it (maybe 1” in the rear) and decrease some of the rake. I don’t have a third row, occasionally tow a 5x8 utility trailer. I do keep a hitch bike rack on but that with the bike is only about 60#. I don’t go off-road other than fire roads and the beach. Thanks very much for your help. Dave


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Mike, my rear axle is shifted to the passenger side by about 1/2-3/4”. I watched the video on the adjustable pan hard bar, however, once I adjust it, how would I recenter the axle to bolt this in place?
 
Mike, my rear axle is shifted to the passenger side by about 1/2-3/4”. I watched the video on the adjustable pan hard bar, however, once I adjust it, how would I recenter the axle to bolt this in place?
Some use a ratchet strap from the frame to the axle to get it to pull over the correct amount to get the extended panhard into place. A person simply pushing on the body of the car will normally do the trick as well.
 
Hi Mike. I have a 2015 limited with leaking XREAS (got 116K miles which seems pretty good). I’m looking to minimally raise it (maybe 1” in the rear) and decrease some of the rake. I don’t have a third row, occasionally tow a 5x8 utility trailer. I do keep a hitch bike rack on but that with the bike is only about 60#. I don’t go off-road other than fire roads and the beach. Thanks very much for your help. Dave


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Hey Dave,

Welcome to the forum!!

For what you're describing, and how you use it, most people would lift 2" up front and 1" in the rear. This will reduce the rake by 1", add some height, and not require extra/additional parts. It will also help reduce the nose dive substantially and also help with body roll as well. Also, with the stronger rear spring rate, the 4Runner will tow and carry weight a little easier than with the stock suspension.

It would be these parts:
C59-300 front coils
GS59-700 front struts
C59-599 rear coils
GS59-705 rear shocks

All of that can be put together on this page here:
Dobinsons 1" to 3.5" Build-A-Kit Toyota 4Runner 2010-21 - Exit Offroad

There are a lot of options on that page, but no other parts are required with what I listed above. You can reuse your stock strut mounts and move them onto the new struts if you want.
 
I just replaced my c59 300 and 599 I was using with Bilstein 5100's. Using the IMS 700 and 705 shocks with 314 and 505. Have about 110 pounds on the front. Got more lift than I think it should have. It rides ok on the street. One thing is there is really no compression/ upward travel up front. I out my front wheel on a tree stump and the wheel barely compressed into the wheel well. I'd I Jack the front under the LCA, again barely compressed and just lifts.

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I just replaced my c59 300 and 599 I was using with Bilstein 5100's. Using the IMS 700 and 705 shocks with 314 and 505. Have about 110 pounds on the front. Got more lift than I think it should have. It rides ok on the street. One thing is there is really no compression/ upward travel up front. I out my front wheel on a tree stump and the wheel barely compressed into the wheel well. I'd I Jack the front under the LCA, again barely compressed and just lifts.

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You'll probably need to lower down the coil seat. Those 700 struts, 314 coils and the weight you have would be at 3" of lift I'm sure which maxes out the length of those struts. Better to be at 2.5" if possible
 
You'll probably need to lower down the coil seat. Those 700 struts, 314 coils and the weight you have would be at 3" of lift I'm sure which maxes out the length of those struts. Better to be at 2.5" if possible
Hmmm. Ok. Thought I'd be at 2.5 with the weight. But am at the lowest setting...214 mm now. Can it go lower? Also can I just throw the 300's back on and raise the seat? Goal is and was 2.5.

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Hmmm. Ok. Thought I'd be at 2.5 with the weight. But am at the lowest setting...214 mm now. Can it go lower? Also can I just throw the 300's back on and raise the seat? Goal is and was 2.5.

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Might be better to throw the 300s back on and raise the seat. Those set to 226mm should set you at about 2.5"

Setting it any lower can cause the sway bar to contact the strut, unless you have KDSS, then it doesn't matter.
 
Might be better to throw the 300s back on and raise the seat. Those set to 226mm should set you at about 2.5"



Setting it any lower can cause the sway bar to contact the strut, unless you have KDSS, then it doesn't matter.
Thanks. I did just that. Right at 2.5 now and feels much better

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[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] forgot to ask you. Did dobinsons stop manufacturing KDSS specific rear coils? C59-727. or are the C59-327 the same?
 
[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] forgot to ask you. Did dobinsons stop manufacturing KDSS specific rear coils? C59-727. or are the C59-327 the same?
Yeah, about 2 years ago.

C59-727 is the same as C59-327 with a PS59-4025 15mm spacer on the one side. It wasn't worth stocking specific parts that a spacer can correct for so easily.
 
hi all, another lean question... had my IMS kit installed yesterday

2022 OR with KDSS
only extra weight atm is sliders

C59-300
IMS59-50700

C59-599
IMS59-50701

the shop that installed my kit put the 1/4" front spacer on the passenger side, which now sits 3/4" taller than driver? is this correct? should it be removed? or add another 5mm spacer to the driver side?
only driven 50miles so far so nothing is settled
rear is dead even

before and after pics
HSED6pv.jpg

2K6zSrh.jpg
 
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hi all, another lean question... had my IMS kit installed yesterday

2022 OR with KDSS
only extra weight atm is sliders

C59-300
IMS59-50700

C59-599
IMS59-50701

the shop that installed my kit put the 1/4" front spacer on the passenger side, which now sits 3/4" taller than driver? is this correct? should it be removed? or add another 5mm spacer to the driver side?
only driven 50miles so far so nothing is settled
rear is dead even

before and after pics
HSED6pv.jpg

2K6zSrh.jpg
Spacers aren't always needed. I'd say let things settle. The KDSS system may still balance itself out in the front and if it doesn't after a month, you may need to remove the spacer.
 
C59-300 / C59-599 with 275/70r17 KO2s

It still sits about 2” higher in the back so I’d like to put in some of the strut spacers to take just a little of the rake out (worried 302s may be too much since I want to keep 1-1.5” of rake). Drives awesome on and off road paired with the Dobinsons twin tube shocks.

LK3GIXw.jpg

0PsXPfc.jpg
 
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Hi Mike (and other viewers),

I'm looking to lift my 2019 OR (no third row seat) and am looking for some recommendations. After hours and hours of research, I've decided to go with a Dobinsons twin-tube setup. With that in mind, I'm undecided on the springs. At this point in time, I believe a 2.5 front/2.0 rear lift would be best for my future goals/needs.

As such, I'm thinking that the C59-302 (2.5" stock front) & C59-325 (2"" stock rear) are correct. However, it is my understanding that those heights were recorded on a 4runner with the third row seating option. Would I be better off going with a 2.0" front/1.5" rear knowing that it may sit a little higher?

Thanks in advance for your assistance!
 
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