Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

Thanks Mike for all the help, got my setup installed a few weeks back, some new tires, and just got the alignment sorted out yesterday. 300/599 spring combo with the comfort valved rear shocks for a 2" front 1" rear lift. Alignment shop managed to get 2.5 degrees of caster and nailed the camber and toe. Rides great, a little firmer than stock and a lot less nosedive under braking.

New tires are 285/70/r17 Load Range C Ko2's. No rubbing (yet) after removing the front mud flaps and doing an fender liner pushback. Factory wheels, no spacers.

Sauce:

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Regards,
Don

Looks real nice! I just put my order in yesterday for a kit. I went with 303/505 for the coils and the same shocks (2.5/1.5) and if you are able to get 285s on yours, maybe I can in the future as well (with the mods)! Curious to see if you experience any rubbing in the future or not.
 
Are the Dobinsons springs generally available now again? Last I checked a few months back no one had them. I've been looking at the OME springs as an alternative since.
Yes, most of them are in stock right now. Heaps of containers came in over the holidays.

But very soon they'll all run out again probably when the tax refund purchases start up.
 
Hello,

I just wanted to say I appreciate Mike's responses and information available on this forum. It helped my in my decision to refresh my 2011 4Runner Limited 4WD with new suspension/wheels/tires. It completely transformed my 4R in terms of handling and comfort. No more brake nose diving, much more controlled over large bumps/uneven terrain, and it still retains near factory level comfort when cruising around. Looks better too! I'm very happy and recommend Dobinsons/Exit Offroad/Mike to anyone, especially if you're debating switching out your XREAS.

I used 300 coils front, 599 coils rear. I have third row seat option, there is still a slight rake (rear slightly higher than front). We were able to get all alignment in green (within spec) and it drives perfect. Toyo AT3 265/70/17 tires installed at the moment. Identical matching tire/wheel fits in spare tire area perfectly. The stock tire size gives me good MPG (around 20-22 highway), and good acceleration due to the tire/wheel combo being about 7 pounds LIGHTER (per wheel/tire) than stock. (Toyo at3 this size/rating weighs 39lbs, wheel weighs 24lbs). Good MPGs, good city driving performance (acceleration/braking), more than enough traction for my needs. I'm happy.

:banana:

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that looks super clean. Roof rack delete would be sweet on that.
 
Front sway bar relocation kit (only for non-KDSS vehicles)
Gains clearance around bigger/thicker front struts and coils, if needed, as well as helps correct sway bar operating angle with lifts over 2". (currently in re-design)

Hey, Mike! You noted that the Sway Bar Relocation Kit is in re-design. Is there a timeline on that?
 
Rear Suspension on a Transformer

I haven't even seen a drawing yet. I'm not sure how it could be done differently, to be honest.

One more question. Posting here because it may help other people as well...

Do I need to go down to C59-327 or C59-325 Springs or would IMS/MMR rear shocks help solve my problem?


Problem: Right now I am completely unloaded with zero accessories other than the LFD rear bumper. When I hit a speed bump above 3 MPH the rear end sounds like it is slamming into the ground. When I am fully loaded its much better but still pretty harsh.

Possible Solution: I still have my old C59-325 rear springs I could try out. Then I could just use the airbags to help with the loaded configuration maybe?

Suspension Configuration: I am running the GS59-705 rear shocks and C59-329 rear springs with F4108 Firestone Coil-Rite Air Helper Springs at minimum pressure. This problem was happening before the Air Helper Springs, so I have ruled out them as the cause.

Loaded Configuration: LFD Steel Rear Bumper, LFD Swing Arms, Spare Tire on Swing Arm, Hi-Lift on Swing Arm, 3.5 gallons Gasoline on Swing Arm, Snomaster LP66 fully loaded, Recovery Gear, Tons of Camp Gear, and my Camp Trailer hitched on (I need to weigh the tongue, but the trailer is under 2,000lbs). In this configuration I can put air in the airbags (up to 20 psi) if there is any droop, but usually that isn't needed with the 329 springs.

Unloaded Configuration: LFD Steel Rear Bumper, Spare Tire in OEM location. In this configuration I run the minimum 8 psi in the airbags.​
 
Hi Mike,

Can you tell me if the setup below is good for 3"/2" ? 2022 Toyota 4Runner TRD ORP - Planning to put 17X8.5 wheel with a -25 offset. Tire is going to be 295/70/17 Cooper STT Pro

Only roof rack and a 295/70/17 spare tire will be in the trunk

 
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Hi Mike,

Can you tell me if the setup below is good for 3"/2" ? 2022 Toyota 4Runner TRD ORP - Planning to put 17X8.5 wheel with a -25 offset. Tire is going to be 295/70/17 Cooper STT Pro

Only roof rack and a 295/70/17 spare tire will be in the trunk

Yes, but you can't use those rear Long Travel shocks with those non-long travel springs. You'd use MRA59-A701 rear shocks intead.
 
This worked out FANTASTIC!! I think it looks better than a TRD PRO with this setup. I'm going to rock the 265's until they die. Install is super easy if you have the right tools and some mechanical skills, (watch his video, it's super easy).

Glad I paid up front for the mounts and strut assembly, makes this just a pull out the stock, swap in the new.

The C59-296 front coil is a great option with C59-323 rear coil to give the level look, but perform and ride way better. (I did the air bags too)

Thank you so much Mike!!

Will be in touch when the time comes to step up to 35's.
 
wheel alignment missive

A while back I wrote on the forum about lifting a 2011 4runner SR5 1.5 inches using Dobinsons springs and shocks purchased from Mike (#3047). The tires are stock size and I planned to keep them that way. I listed the alignment numbers for caster and they were less than 0.5 degrees. I did not think the alignment shop knew what they were doing for lifted vehicles. I asked around and found another shop that people sent their lifted vehicles to and had that shop do an alignment.
The before numbers: min factory max
L 1.8 caster R 1.3 2.9 4.4
L 1.3 camber R 1.1 -1.3 0.2
L 0.85 toe R 1.10 0.0 0.1
After:
L 1.9 caster R 2.3
L -0.1 camber R -0.1
L 0.1 toe R 0.1
I took the vehicle out for a drive and when I was on the South side of the road the vehicle pulled to the left. When I went North the vehicle pulled right. I had to keep positive pressure on the steering wheel to go straight. I went a talked to the alignment person and he said that if I brought it in he would take a look at it. I mentioned that I was thinking of putting in after market upper control arms (UCAs) due to the low caster numbers. He said not to do that since that would cause a whole bunch of other headaches for trying to align the vehicle. He also mentioned that since the vehicle was lifted he would not be able to get factory caster. Even though this shop was supposed to know how to align lifted vehicles his statement about upper control arms set off a red flag. This made me think that I was going to have trouble finding a good alignment shop. I was going down the same trail that others have gone on the forum. I felt I needed more caster than what was provided and I had to find a shop to do a good alignment. I put on SPC upper control arms. After installing those set at the zero setting I looked at the tires and noticed the camber was not good. I set the camber bolts for neutral/zero degrees camber. I took a level and put it on the tire and leveled it vertically with the adjustable ball joint. I figured toe would be out, though I did not want to adjust that before the alignment shop. I found a shop that was supposed to do good alignments on lifted vehicles about 50 miles away. It was a cold try. I did not have any referrals for trying the shop other than they said they do lifted vehicles the same as the second shop. Since it was a more populous town I decided to try it. I was a little concerned about driving that far without alignment. The T4R steering wheel was tilted to the right though it did not drive terrible.
The before alignment
L 4.5 caster R 4.0
L 0.5 camber R 0.3
L -0.75 toe R 0.0
I was surprised how close just putting in the UCAs and adjusting a little the numbers came out. That was providence.
The after numbers:
L 3.8 caster R 4.2
L -0.4 camber R -0.4
L 0.05 toe R 0.05
The alignment tech wanted to adjust for road crown. I asked the tech why he went with the caster at ~4.0 and he said it was better. I requested about 3.2-3.5. The tech took the vehicle out for a road test a couple times. The drive home after alignment was uneventful. The vehicle seems to steer well. I wanted close to factory specs due to the possibility of towing and did not want to deal with unknown floaty steering. So for a summation the T4R rides a little stiffer after the lift which is good. It is not as spongy. It took three tries to get a good alignment and more money than expected, though I got there. Since on the forum I read one did not need to do UCAs and I was not planning on it to save money, UCAs I think will be a good choice as time goes by. So try to check out shops as well as possible asking anyone you know and look for trucks at the shop. The last shop had trucks going there and was word of mouth recommended, though 50 miles away. If I had known UCAs would have helped I might have initially lifted 2 inches (maybe not either since I was concerned about cv axle wear and other suspension components). My off roading is going to be Moab, some Telluride trails, not looking at a rock crawler. This is a daily driver. Hopefully all this helps someone. I have included pictures of the camber bolt settings.

If someone wants to answer I do have questions about the camber bolt settings. I was wondering if I had set the SPCs on C setting which would provide 3 degrees of caster, instead of D setting which is 2 degrees of caster (neutral setting) if that would have brought the camber bolt setting back from being maxed out? Could the alignment guy have adjusted camber using the ball joint to help the max setting of the camber bolts? Is there an issue of wear for the camber bolts to be at almost max?

What someone might comment on is why caster of 4 is better than 3.2-3.5 numbers.
 

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Hey mike, I just installed a pair of the ims59-50705 shocks in the rear of my 4runner, stock weight. They replaced the gs59-705s. The new ims shocks seemed shorter when next to the old ones side by side, full extension. Do these new ims shocks have less travel? Will they impede the normal travel of my truck up or down? The truck also seems to have lost height after the install. I must be crazy on that though. I’ve got kdss.

I can say they’re built so nice, much beefier. Definitely a fight to compress them compared to the 705s. Also, I can tell a significant difference in ride quality already and only the rears are installed. They feel great. More controlled in a way and smoother.
 
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Installed my IMS shocks/coils, diff drop, UCA's, sway bar relocation kit, & rear sway link extensions. Love the quality of ride. Sits quite high. Anyone have an idea on how long it will take to settle?
Thanks Mike
 
Hey mike, I just installed a pair of the ims59-50705 shocks in the rear of my 4runner, stock weight. They replaced the gs59-705s. The new ims shocks seemed shorter when next to the old ones side by side, full extension. Do these new ims shocks have less travel? Will they impede the normal travel of my truck up or down? The truck also seems to have lost height after the install. I must be crazy on that though. I’ve got kdss.

I can say they’re built so nice, much beefier. Definitely a fight to compress them compared to the 705s. Also, I can tell a significant difference in ride quality already and only the rears are installed. They feel great. More controlled in a way and smoother.
They're the same extended length but a little longer when fully compressed due to the way they're made with the IFP. Maybe it was just the way you held then side by side? They can be used with stock coils or lifted.

Shocks don't affect lift height.
 
They're the same extended length but a little longer when fully compressed due to the way they're made with the IFP. Maybe it was just the way you held then side by side? They can be used with stock coils or lifted.

Shocks don't affect lift height.

Thanks for the reply. I thought it could have been the way I had them laid out but I also stood them up on level ground and when I installed the new ones I had to jack the axle up to get the lower bushing and washer to contact the shock mount on the frame at its fully extended length. The axle had been at the same position as what it took to remove the old twin tube and I had to compress it by hand to remove it completely. I understand the up travel limitation based on the ifp now so thanks for that explanation. I've got the c59-726 rear springs.

I didn't think shocks affected lift height, I figured it was in my head haha.
 

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