Dobinsons Suspension - 4th Gen Options

[t-rex grrr]

That's great. Can you let us know how much weight you've added on the back, and what your hub-to-fender measurement is on the rear?

I've had several people ask this week for the 677V's, but we need some more real-world feedback on the 4th gen's for final ride height with extra weight.

Between the two springs below, what's the main difference between them in terms of city driving and off-roading? Do you need to run extended travel shocks for the Variable springs?

C59-329 - 600-800LB super ridiculous heavy rear load weight, 2" lift. 410/410mm, 18mm wire, 286LB

C59-677V - Variable rate comfort option, 400+LB heavy rear load weight, 2.5-3" lift. 500/500mm, 16mm wire, 157-230LB variable

 

[Crikeymike]

Between the two springs below, what's the main difference between them in terms of city driving and off-roading? Do you need to run extended travel shocks for the Variable springs?

C59-329 - 600-800LB super ridiculous heavy rear load weight, 2" lift. 410/410mm, 18mm wire, 286LB

C59-677V - Variable rate comfort option, 400+LB heavy rear load weight, 2.5-3" lift. 500/500mm, 16mm wire, 157-230LB variable

Linear coils are a little more predictable, and "should" have less body roll, especially with a lower lift height.

Variables would be more comfortable over all due to the softer spring rate, but it makes up for that with the extra length in free height. Yeah, our regular rear shocks can max out easily for anything over 2.5" of lift, so then you'll more than likely need longer shocks so that you'll have some down travel and don't top out the shocks at full extension.

The main thing with variables is they ride well unloaded or loaded, but those 677's, you still need some weight on them at all times.

I just shipped some 329's up north today to a guy with drawers, rack, RTT, and his 325's couldn't hold up the weight and keep the lift height up where he wanted, after adding the extra weight.

 

[t-rex grrr]

Linear coils are a little more predictable, and "should" have less body roll, especially with a lower lift height.

Variables would be more comfortable over all due to the softer spring rate, but it makes up for that with the extra length in free height. Yeah, our regular rear shocks can max out easily for anything over 2.5" of lift, so then you'll more than likely need longer shocks so that you'll have some down travel and don't top out the shocks at full extension.

The main thing with variables is they ride well unloaded or loaded, but those 677's, you still need some weight on them at all times.

I just shipped some 329's up north today to a guy with drawers, rack, RTT, and his 325's couldn't hold up the weight and keep the lift height up where he wanted, after adding the extra weight.

Aren't the 325s intended for a stock load? If so, it would make sense that it wouldn't be able to support all of that dude's weight.

As for myself, I have the 327s and absolutely love them when loaded up for camping. I just got back from a trip to Death Valley and they handled flawlessly. However, future plans include a drawer system and a rear bumper, so I might need to step it up to the 329s b/c I'll easily be over the 400+ range.

Thanks for the info!

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

The main thing with variables is they ride well unloaded or loaded, but those 677's, you still need some weight on them at all times.

I just shipped some 329's up north today to a guy with drawers, rack, RTT, and his 325's couldn't hold up the weight and keep the lift height up where he wanted, after adding the extra weight.

I'd be interested to see how those 329's are compared to my 701's you shipped me. Unfortunately I won't have my drawer system for another couple of months to compare height when loaded up. But I will do a measurement with all my other stuff loaded up since I'm going on a trip this weekend. Then when I get back I'll unload and measure so essentially the only thing missing will be the drawer system and fake floor.

 

[Crikeymike]

Aren't the 325s intended for a stock load? If so, it would make sense that it wouldn't be able to support all of that dude's weight.

As for myself, I have the 327s and absolutely love them when loaded up for camping. I just got back from a trip to Death Valley and they handled flawlessly. However, future plans include a drawer system and a rear bumper, so I might need to step it up to the 329s b/c I'll easily be over the 400+ range.

Thanks for the info!

Yes, that's correct. He bought the drawers earlier than expected with a group buy last month, so then he had to upgrade the coils.

Yeah, stepping up to 329's then sounds like your best bet.

 

[Crikeymike]

I'd be interested to see how those 329's are compared to my 701's you shipped me. Unfortunately I won't have my drawer system for another couple of months to compare height when loaded up. But I will do a measurement with all my other stuff loaded up since I'm going on a trip this weekend. Then when I get back I'll unload and measure so essentially the only thing missing will be the drawer system and fake floor.

Your 701's should sit a solid 1" higher than the 329's could.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

Your 701's should sit a solid 1" higher than the 329's could.

Yeah, wish I would have measured my Icon Overlands with no load except Wilco, spare and RTT which I drive daily on to see how high they were compared to the 701's. The real test is when I'm loaded up this weekend how much, or if they will sag like the Icon's did even without the drawer system. Not to mention how soft they got.

 

[Brian3676]

Just installed my 59-577V springs. I had Radflo 2" with 1/2" spacer on passenger side and 1" on drivers (to help with lean and give me slightly more lift). I also have a 1/2" body lift.

I sat at exactly 24.5" on both driver and passenger rear with that set up.

I now sit at 25 3/16" on drivers and 26" on the passenger side. This is with a 10mm OME trim spacer on the drivers side to help with lean.

Springs ride great! I like them much better than the Radflo 220lb springs. They were not super fun to install because they are very tall when uncompressed. I disconnected the sway bar links, lower shock mount and the upper links to get them installed with no spring compressors.

I am going to drive it for a week or two until my Radflo long travel shocks show up, then depending how it settles I'll toss in a bigger spacer on the drivers to get it level.

 

[Crikeymike]

Just installed my 59-577V springs. I had Radflo 2" with 1/2" spacer on passenger side and 1" on drivers (to help with lean and give me slightly more lift). I also have a 1/2" body lift.

I sat at exactly 24.5" on both driver and passenger rear with that set up.

I now sit at 25 3/16" on drivers and 26" on the passenger side. This is with a 10mm OME trim spacer on the drivers side to help with lean.

Springs ride great! I like them much better than the Radflo 220lb springs. They were not super fun to install because they are very tall when uncompressed. I disconnected the sway bar links, lower shock mount and the upper links to get them installed with no spring compressors.

I am going to drive it for a week or two until my Radflo long travel shocks show up, then depending how it settles I'll toss in a bigger spacer on the drivers to get it level.

That's great, looking good. Yep, that's the same method I've seen other people doing too for these long coils.

How's the axle sitting side to side with that much lift. Let me know if you need a rear panhard rod, we have those too.

 

[Brian3676]

That's great, looking good. Yep, that's the same method I've seen other people doing too for these long coils.

How's the axle sitting side to side with that much lift. Let me know if you need a rear panhard rod, we have those too.

I will look, I got the springs in and never checked side to side. How much is the panhard bar?

 

[Crikeymike]

I will look, I got the springs in and never checked side to side. How much is the panhard bar?

They're $250 delivered.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWY185U

 

[4wordSOUL]

Can you share a photo of how it looks now? The front coils on your current setup just mustn't be keeping up with the added weight properly.

I think you need to go with our 730LB front coils, same as Tennessee Overland is running, so C59-350 with GS59-220 for 3" front lift, then C59-677V 3" rear with GS59-575, and add bump stops and rear brake line if you don't have those already.

I'll get a good pic with before and after in a bit (problem being I have my winter tires on now and they're slightly smaller in diameter).

Now I have the weights for the sliders and front bumper:

Budbuilt sliders: 206lbs (103 each)
Shrockworks front bumper: 200 lbs
CBI rear bumper (pending): 195 lbs

Eventually I plan on adding a steel rear swing out bumper as well.

Here is the range of weights I'd like to be able to accommodate and maintain 3" lift:

- daily driver weight (sliders, bumpers): add 600lbs to standard V8 curb weight
- camping fully loaded weight (worst case): add 860 lbs to above

With this said, would the setup you recommend above be enough? If not what do you suggest?

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

I'll get a good pic with before and after in a bit (problem being I have my winter tires on now and they're slightly smaller in diameter).

Now I have the weights for the sliders and front bumper:

Budbuilt sliders: 206lbs (103 each)
Shrockworks front bumper: 200 lbs
CBI rear bumper (pending): 195 lbs

Eventually I plan on adding a steel rear swing out bumper as well.

Here is the range of weights I'd like to be able to accommodate and maintain 3" lift:

- daily driver weight (sliders, bumpers): add 600lbs to standard V8 curb weight
- camping fully loaded weight (worst case): add 860 lbs to above

With this said, would the setup you recommend above be enough? If not what do you suggest?

Go air bags with the 701's. I've been suffering with sag with the heavy weight I run with bumpers, sliders, RTT, camping gear, fuel, water, etc, etc. and I'm getting a rear drawer system shortly so that will go up quite a bit. This weekend even with a bunch of weight from gear, water, fuel, etc, etc my ass sagged. Kinda bummed after taking out Icon Overland springs because I was told the 701's wouldn't sag and keep my 3" lift. I will say the 701's rode better at heavier weight but suffered offroad as they just couldn't handle that weight. I think they will suffer even more with the drawer system. So I'm going to just put bags in the Dobinson's since I already sold my Icon's. I guess it was worth a try, just wish I didn't spend extra money doing so.

I'll also mention Mike has been great to deal with and am in no way bashing the product, his help and never felt I was sold something that I didn't think would work. I sent him an email with the results so I'll see what he says, but wanted to post here to help others.

 

[Crikeymike]

Go air bags with the 701's. I've been suffering with sag with the heavy weight I run with bumpers, sliders, RTT, camping gear, fuel, water, etc, etc. and I'm getting a rear drawer system shortly so that will go up quite a bit. This weekend even with a bunch of weight from gear, water, fuel, etc, etc my ass sagged. Kinda bummed after taking out Icon Overland springs because I was told the 701's wouldn't sag and keep my 3" lift. I will say the 701's rode better at heavier weight but suffered offroad as they just couldn't handle that weight. I think they will suffer even more with the drawer system. So I'm going to just put bags in the Dobinson's since I already sold my Icon's. I guess it was worth a try, just wish I didn't spend extra money doing so.

I'll also mention Mike has been great to deal with and am in no way bashing the product, his help and never felt I was sold something that I didn't think would work. I sent him an email with the results so I'll see what he says, but wanted to post here to help others.

I'm currently investigating this, as it definitely shouldn't be as described here.

Here's another 4th Gen with the same 701V installed and 600-800LBS of rear weight, maintaining good fender clearance and lift height.

 

[DreamRun08]

I'm looking to upgrade from my daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer lift to something in the 3/2 range thats comfortable on and off road with no added weight maybe 150lb in the rear. Any suggestions?

 

[Crikeymike]

I'm looking to upgrade from my daystar 2.5/1.5 spacer lift to something in the 3/2 range thats comfortable on and off road with no added weight maybe 150lb in the rear. Any suggestions?

Jumping up to that 3" mark on the front will require new UCA's.

Is that 150LB in the back going to be constant, or occasional weight? Any 3rd row?

 

[DreamRun08]

Jumping up to that 3" mark on the front will require new UCA's.

Is that 150LB in the back going to be constant, or occasional weight? Any 3rd row?

I'm aware of the UCA's. No third row. 150 pounds will be most of the time, i transport tools to work mostly every day but take them out when i'm not working. i would like something that will drive smoothly down a bumpy unpaved road, but also handles well on road. Is that possible? Also I'm not really a fan of the saggy butt look and like a little rake; same front to back ratio as the daystar kit just higher. I have a v6

 

[Crikeymike]

I'm aware of the UCA's. No third row. 150 pounds will be most of the time, i transport tools to work mostly every day but take them out when i'm not working. i would like something that will drive smoothly down a bumpy unpaved road, but also handles well on road. Is that possible? Also I'm not really a fan of the saggy butt look and like a little rake; same front to back ratio as the daystar kit just higher. I have a v6

Ok, I'd run C59-300 on GS59-220 struts for 3" of front lift with stock front end V6 weight. Then on the rear, C59-505 for 1.5" and GS59-705 with softer valving. That would be the best and most comfortable on and off-road suspension with that lift height. With those rear coils, 150LBS shouldn't cost more than about 1/4" in drop, so you would be good to go.

Edit, sorry, use C59-325 for 2" rear lift, not the C59-505 for 1.5". Otherwise you'll end up with negative rake possibly.

 

[chris27]

Ok, I'd run C59-300 on GS59-220 struts for 3" of front lift with stock front end V6 weight. Then on the rear, C59-505 for 1.5" and GS59-705 with softer valving. That would be the best and most comfortable on and off-road suspension with that lift height. With those rear coils, 150LBS shouldn't cost more than about 1/4" in drop, so you would be good to go.

Curious as to your thought process of recommending 505 vs 325 since he wanted 2" in the back? Obviously, you are the expert but just wanted to hear why. thanks!

 

[Crikeymike]

Curious as to your thought process of recommending 505 vs 325 since he wanted 2" in the back? Obviously, you are the expert but just wanted to hear why. thanks!

Woops, I did that wrong I think. He kept talking about his 2.5" and 1.5" spacers, and the 1.5" played in my head for too long.

Yeah, C59-325 for 2" rear. I'll add an edit to that post.