Dobinsons Suspension - 4th Gen Options

I’ve been running my Dobinsons setup for over a year now and still trying to figure out an issue I have. I’m running the C59-300 springs with the GS59-220 struts up front and when I go down a small drop ie a curb or rock off-road it is super harsh and annoying. Almost sounds like it is bottoming out or spring is running out of travel. Anyone else have this or maybe some insight from mike?
 
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I’ve been running my Dobinsons setup for over a year now and still trying to figure out an issue I have. I’m running the C59-300 springs with the GS59-220 struts up front and when I go down a small drop ie a curb or rock off-road it is super harsh and annoying. Almost sounds like it is bottoming out or spring is running out of travel. Anyone else have this or maybe some insight from mike?
I am having this same "issue". Seems like theyre too stiff or bottoming out. At almost 1.5 years on the setup.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 
I’ve been running my Dobinsons setup for over a year now and still trying to figure out an issue I have. I’m running the C59-300 springs with the GS59-220 struts up front and when I go down a small drop ie a curb or rock off-road it is super harsh and annoying. Almost sounds like it is bottoming out or spring is running out of travel. Anyone else have this or maybe some insight from mike?

I am having this same "issue". Seems like theyre too stiff or bottoming out. At almost 1.5 years on the setup.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

You might be bottoming it out. You'd have to flex the truck to fully compress it and see if the coil is at full collapse before you're hitting your bump stop. I doubt that's the case though, with something like a small step/curb, but if it was, you could add our longer bump stop kit to the front.

I'd be more inclined to check the suspension install. If the struts weren't all the way tightened at the top center nut, you could be getting something weird going on there. If that's not tight, the dust boot on the strut could also be moving to a position that it shouldn't be in.

Check your sway bar links too. Those are the #1 most commonly "not resinstalled correctly/tight enough"
 
I’ve taken the assemblies out twice now and inspected everything as far as installation and parts go. Do you think they’re bottoming our that easily? I have extended bumps waiting to go in
 
No, I don't think they're bottoming out at all. I was just giving details, and you'd have to check the clearance under full stuff to determine if that's the problem. That's why I suggested it could be something else.

My front suspension on my 5th Gen (3" front with LT struts) doesn't bottom out before I hit the standard bump stop, no matter how hard I hit the front.
 
Hello Mike! Great thread, just discovering Dobinsons, looking for recommendations. I drive a 2006 4wd sr5 v6. I recently installed bilstein 5100's up front paired with toytec coils. This provided a 2.5" lift. I'm planning to get the back lifted soon and would appreciate suggestions for the rear. I'd like to maintain a forward rake so that i'm level when loaded. I almost always have 100lbs of gear in the back and I often go on trips with camping gear and paddle boards. Total gear weight on a trip would be 500-600lbs Not running any bumpers. Which rear springs and shocks would you recommend?

I'm curious about the C59-675V, your first post lists a 2.5 in lift, but a few other places in the thread I've noticed 2-2.5. If I understand variable springs correctly, the first 157lbs of load would compress the spring 1" after that it will take 230lbs to compress the spring another inch. Is that correct? Because there are 2 springs that doubles the numbers right? So the first 300 lbs compresses the spring 1 inch, then it will take almost 500lbs to compress the next inch correct?
 
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Hello Mike! Great thread, just discovering Dobinsons, looking for recommendations. I drive a 2006 4wd sr5 v6. I recently installed bilstein 5100's up front paired with toytec coils. This provided a 2.5" lift. I'm planning to get the back lifted soon and would appreciate suggestions for the rear. I'd like to maintain a forward rake so that i'm level when loaded. I almost always have 100lbs of gear in the back and I often go on trips with camping gear and paddle boards. Total gear weight on a trip would be 500-600lbs Not running any bumpers. Which rear springs and shocks would you recommend?

I'm curious about the C59-675V, your first post lists a 2.5 in lift, but a few other places in the thread I've noticed 2-2.5. If I understand variable springs correctly, the first 157lbs of load would compress the spring 1" after that it will take 230lbs to compress the spring another inch. Is that correct? Because there are 2 springs that doubles the numbers right? So the first 300 lbs compresses the spring 1 inch, then it will take almost 500lbs to compress the next inch correct?
Not everyone has the same loads, so lift heights people claim can always vary, especially if they're measuring up from an old sagged suspension to the new parts.

Your math is almost right, but it depends how long the first stage and 2nd stage are in the springs. The first stage is almost always compressed at regular ride height, but comes into play when the suspension becomes unloaded. We use the final rate (230LBF/IN in this case) to work out what will happen when you load up. And yes, it doubles for 2 coils working together.

How often do you load up with that 500-600LBS in the rear? Every weekend, or a few times a year?
 
I load up about once a month. Not sure if I really need dual rate springs, just curious about what the advantages would be. I only have a constant load of maybe 100lbs. I would need shocks, but I would prefer not to change any other components of my suspension at least for now.
 
I load up about once a month. Not sure if I really need dual rate springs, just curious about what the advantages would be. I only have a constant load of maybe 100lbs. I would need shocks, but I would prefer not to change any other components of my suspension at least for now.

Most people run linear coils, as they suit pretty much all needs. The variables that we make were designed to be run with the long travel shocks for maximum rear travel, however a lot of guys want to run them without LT shocks. There's no real benefit to running them if you'll use the regular length shocks as far as I can tell.

I think the linear rate C59-325 coils would be suitable for what you want to do and how you load up. Then with the GS59-701 shocks.
 
Most people run linear coils, as they suit pretty much all needs. The variables that we make were designed to be run with the long travel shocks for maximum rear travel, however a lot of guys want to run them without LT shocks. There's no real benefit to running them if you'll use the regular length shocks as far as I can tell.

I think the linear rate C59-325 coils would be suitable for what you want to do and how you load up. Then with the GS59-701 shocks.

So, with this combo I can expect 2" of lift, and about 30% stiffer spring rate?

What do you feel separates you most from the competion? I had been looking at Icon and Toytec/bilstein until I discovered dobinsons and started reading this thread.

Would I purchase directly through you?
 
So, with this combo I can expect 2" of lift, and about 30% stiffer spring rate?

What do you feel separates you most from the competion? I had been looking at Icon and Toytec/bilstein until I discovered dobinsons and started reading this thread.

Would I purchase directly through you?
It's less than 20% stronger than stock. 190 vs 220.

The main difference is options, being able to fine tune what coils will meet a customers needs. I can't tell you how many people per week tell me "hey, I have XXXX coils and they just aren't doing what they're supposed to, so what do you have to meet my needs" and there's no time when I don't have a really good option for them with whatever weight they're carrying and to suit their lift height needs. We make the coils ourselves, which gives us that flexibility.
 
It's less than 20% stronger than stock. 190 vs 220.

The main difference is options, being able to fine tune what coils will meet a customers needs. I can't tell you how many people per week tell me "hey, I have XXXX coils and they just aren't doing what they're supposed to, so what do you have to meet my needs" and there's no time when I don't have a really good option for them with whatever weight they're carrying and to suit their lift height needs. We make the coils ourselves, which gives us that flexibility.

Should I email you for pricing?
 
2wd v8 Dobinsons suspension

Installed my Dobinsons springs and shocks last weekend. Only have the one pic below so far. The bike and rack don't weigh much - only about 25-30 lbs.

I have a 2wd v8, which weighs about 30 lbs less than a 4wd v6. So I chose the springs based on the v6 options. I installed C59-296 springs in the front for 1.5" of lift and GS59-220 shocks with the higher spring perch and an additional 1" of lift. In the rear, I have the C59-505 springs for 1.5" of lift with a 10mm spacer on the driver side and GS59-705 shocks. I ended up with just over 1" of rake from front to back and about 1/4" of driver side lean. Can't complain about any of that.

The fender heights are below. I have 265/70/17 tires.

Ground to Fender
Front Driver - 36 3/4"
Front Passenger - 37"
Rear Driver - 37 7/8"
Rear Passenger - 38 3/8"

Hub to Fender
Front Driver - 22 3/8"
Front Passenger - 22 5/8"
Rear Driver - 23 1/2"
Rear Passenger - 23 3/4"

IMG_0601.jpg
 

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Hi Mike!

I'm replacing the factory shocks and springs on my 2006 Limited V8 4WD and am hoping to hear your input on what to choose.

My goals are to:
- improve ride quality
- improve performance off-road (mostly minor stuff like backwoods hunting / old logging trails)
- improve appearance with small lift / level out front rake
- provide a bit more clearance for bigger tires
- keep the lift low enough to avoid the need for UCA's, sway bar relocates, etc...

The vehicle is my daily driver and is usually empty. About 1-2 times per month I am loaded with ~100-200 pounds of weight in the back. Only 1-2 times per year I pull a small single-axle trailer.

I am hoping this front setup will be low enough to avoid UCA's:
302 springs
221 strut

I am pretty torn on the best spring/shock combo for the rear:
599 or 505 springs?
637 or 705 shocks?

Do you think the front setup helps achieve my goals? And can you provide some guidance on the rear? I would rather there be a liiiiittle bit of front rake when the vehicle is empty so that it evens out when loaded.

Thanks in advance!
 
Hi Mike!

I'm replacing the factory shocks and springs on my 2006 Limited V8 4WD and am hoping to hear your input on what to choose.

My goals are to:
- improve ride quality
- improve performance off-road (mostly minor stuff like backwoods hunting / old logging trails)
- improve appearance with small lift / level out front rake
- provide a bit more clearance for bigger tires
- keep the lift low enough to avoid the need for UCA's, sway bar relocates, etc...

The vehicle is my daily driver and is usually empty. About 1-2 times per month I am loaded with ~100-200 pounds of weight in the back. Only 1-2 times per year I pull a small single-axle trailer.

I am hoping this front setup will be low enough to avoid UCA's:
302 springs
221 strut

I am pretty torn on the best spring/shock combo for the rear:
599 or 505 springs?
637 or 705 shocks?

Do you think the front setup helps achieve my goals? And can you provide some guidance on the rear? I would rather there be a liiiiittle bit of front rake when the vehicle is empty so that it evens out when loaded.

Thanks in advance!

Hey man.

The front with that combo will be 2", so you'll be good to go without needing any other parts.

For the rear, I'd recommend the 505 rear coils for 1.5" lift with the GS59-705 shocks. That will give you some room to absorb loading when it happens, and it will also ride really well on and off road.

You'd have about 1.5" rake front to rear with that setup.
 
Hey man.

The front with that combo will be 2", so you'll be good to go without needing any other parts.

For the rear, I'd recommend the 505 rear coils for 1.5" lift with the GS59-705 shocks. That will give you some room to absorb loading when it happens, and it will also ride really well on and off road.

You'd have about 1.5" rake front to rear with that setup.

Thanks Mike! The order placed this morning for Dan in Minnesota is mine.
 
Mike, I'm pretty sure that I have e-mailed you a few times with my questions but I'm posting here to also get some input from other members rather than starting a whole new thread.

My situation is pretty much the same as the one above. I want more rake or eliminate rear sag when loaded.

I'm right now running a 05 with an FJ Cruiser TRD suspension. FJ TDR coils, Bilstein 5100s set to the second lowest ring up front and the Bilstein's that came with the FJ suspension in the rear. This gave me a 1.8" front end lift and 0.5" rear lift. I would like to regain the original rake of for aesthetics as well as preventing the rear from sagging when loaded. I have airbags in the back to try to correct for this but would like to achieve the proper rake with springs. So I'm basically looking for a 1.8" lift in the rear.

My question is that if I go with 505s or 325s in the rear are they going to be a mismatch for the front springs?
- My ride quality with my current setup is somewhat choppy so I really don't want to see it deteriorate? Am I better off also purchasing the Dobinson rear shocks with soft valving and replacing the Bilsteins?
- And at that point am I just better off swapping my whole suspension out with a new Dobinson suspension using the 300 springs up front? The goal being a 2" lift with factory rake?

You have already been real helpful (I wish you were around 10 years ago when I did my original suspension mod).

Any other of the members have some insight or have had similar setup or suggestions?
 
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