Dobinsons Suspension - 4th Gen Options

[Crikeymike]

Sorry for the long post:

Okay, so I ordered the IMS system for an 07 v8 4WD 4runner (100k miles) and got it yesterday and decided to install it the same day because I'm impatient. I got the 314's with the 226mm seat height. for the rear, I ended up with the 675v instead of the 677v with long-travel shocks, I did this due to the longer wait and also because I thought it may have been too tall since I only cary about 100 lbs in the rear right now with a regular spare. The install took some time as apparently, I'm a little rusty.. All is well, drives good, but the front is definitely a little stiff (not too stiff though) since I don't have my bumper/winch combo installed yet.

Here's my dilemma, I know it needs to settle but I got almost 6" of lift in the front and about 3" in the rear which means it's sitting nose-high by about an inch or so (looks more than an inch). How much should I expect the front to settle? Should I get the 677v's even if it does settle + the bumper/winch for a proper rake? I was hoping for at least an inch rake at a minimum so I have room for the extra camping and traveling gear, plus I tow a boat from time to time and wanted it to be as level as possible when I do.

I haven't installed the diff drop yet, or the UCA's since they won't be in until a little later. I'm wondering what I should do. extra weight/mod list below:

Future (ordered but not yet shipped)
Demello aluminum flat top bumper,
SmittybuiltBuilt 10k winch (synthetic line)
RSG angled sliders with kick out

Considering hitch mounted full-size spare (285/70r17's). This depends on if I can fit it underneath the way I want, which I doubt because of the tow package hitch. no rear bumper in the future at this time due to cost.

Also considering full budbuilt skids (steel) in the future

Let me know what you think, I don't think I'm going to install the 285/70r17's I have in the garage until I get the UCA's installed and everything aligned. until then I'm running on bald highway tires 265/65r17's

WOW!! Ummm, you need to post photos, and proper measurements. Haha

Measure from the center of the hub up to the fender.

If you installed it where it is now, then lowered it to the ground and measured, that's not the right way to do it.

314's with 220 struts set to 226mm will be at least 3.5" with no front weight, and 4" or so until settled.

500 miles to settle and break in the coils. With that much lift, no alignment and no UCA's, I probably wouldn't even drive it. You might need to put the stock front struts back in until you either add weight or get everything else in and onto it.

 

[4Rlove]

WOW!! Ummm, you need to post photos, and proper measurements. Haha

Measure from the center of the hub up to the fender.

If you installed it where it is now, then lowered it to the ground and measured, that's not the right way to do it.

314's with 220 struts set to 226mm will be at least 3.5" with no front weight, and 4" or so until settled.

500 miles to settle and break in the coils. With that much lift, no alignment and no UCA's, I probably wouldn't even drive it. You might need to put the stock front struts back in until you either add weight or get everything else in and onto it.

Measurements below, hub to fender as of last night after a 20-mile trip.

It's not quite 6" but it's close! I know I had some sagging though, I guess being in the 24" ish area is to be expected without settling and no weight. measurements were taken with a full gas tank.

Driver front
Pre: 18 7/8"
Post: 24 1/2"

Pass front
Pre: 19"
Post: 24 5/8"

Driver rear
Pre: 20 3/4"
Post: 23 1/2"

Passenger rear
Pre: 21 1/8"
Post: 23 7/8"

 

[Crikeymike]

Measurements below, hub to fender as of last night after a 20-mile trip.

It's not quite 6" but it's close! I know I had some sagging though, I guess being in the 24" ish area is to be expected without settling and no weight. measurements were taken with a full gas tank.

Driver front
Pre: 18 7/8"
Post: 24 1/2"

Pass front
Pre: 19"
Post: 24 5/8"

Driver rear
Pre: 20 3/4"
Post: 23 1/2"

Passenger rear
Pre: 21 1/8"
Post: 23 7/8"

WOW, that is high up front!! hahaha. 20" front and 22" rear is the baseline that we go off for lift height, so you're at 4.5" and 4-5/8" of lift up front. You need to have the front weight on there, or take them off and go back to stock until you get it.

Rear is 2-5/8" and 1.5", got some leaning, but with the front so jacked, that will mess up the rear too.

 

[4Rlove]

WOW, that is high up front!! hahaha. 20" front and 22" rear is the baseline that we go off for lift height, so you're at 4.5" and 4-5/8" of lift up front. You need to have the front weight on there, or take them off and go back to stock until you get it.

Rear is 2-5/8" and 1.5", got some leaning, but with the front so jacked, that will mess up the rear too.

Yeah, after I looked at the numbers and realized just how much sag I had I don't think it will be an issue once I get some weight on it. I'm thinking the weight in the front will be about 140'ish pounds, once everything is installed bumper-wise, but based on the way it handles I'm betting it doesn't weigh it down much more than a 1/2" up front. so I figure I'll be sitting close to 4" lift up front. what are your thoughts?

Also regarding the rear, do you think I should go 677v's instead so I can have some rake for future weight?

 

[jgravlin]

CrikeyMike could you help me out on this?

IMS59-50220 with C59-314 front I am good on this setup.


I want about 2 1/2 inches in the rear. Could I put the C59-675V with the IMS59-50701 and be able to accomplish this? On my 2020 4runner I have the IMS59-50701 with the C59-325 but that's supposed to be 2 inch lift I love this setup.
If I use IMS59-50701 with the C59-325 and add a 1/2 inch cornfed spacer on top of coil would I come out better?

 

[Crikeymike]

CrikeyMike could you help me out on this?

IMS59-50220 with C59-314 front I am good on this setup.


I want about 2 1/2 inches in the rear. Could I put the C59-675V with the IMS59-50701 and be able to accomplish this? On my 2020 4runner I have the IMS59-50701 with the C59-325 but that's supposed to be 2 inch lift I love this setup.
If I use IMS59-50701 with the C59-325 and add a 1/2 inch cornfed spacer on top of coil would I come out better?

This is what you should do for 2.5"
the C59-675V with the IMS59-50701

4th gens are heavier in the back than the 5th gens, so the 325's don't lift as much

 

[mysticz]

Building my next lift to replace my current Radflo setup, I want to maintain the same amount of lift and look. Would the below list do that?

Dobinsons 1″ to 3.5″ MRA Lift Kit for Toyota 4Runner 4×4 2003-2009

C59-354 - With 220-300lbs - 2.5" | Heavy rate coils

MRA59-A221 - MRA 3-way adjustable w/resi monotube (0-2.5" lifts)

C59-701V - 3" long travel, 600-800lbs weight

MRA59-A575 - MRA 3-way adj w/resi monotube long travel 3"+ lifts

Dobinsons Pair of Strut Top Plates (SC59-001)

Dobinsons Extended Rear Swaybar End Link Kit

Dobinsons Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms

Dobinsons WA59-522K Adjustable Rear Upper Trailing Arms

 

[Crikeymike]

Building my next lift to replace my current Radflo setup, I want to maintain the same amount of lift and look. Would the below list do that?

Dobinsons 1″ to 3.5″ MRA Lift Kit for Toyota 4Runner 4×4 2003-2009

C59-354 - With 220-300lbs - 2.5" | Heavy rate coils

MRA59-A221 - MRA 3-way adjustable w/resi monotube (0-2.5" lifts)

C59-701V - 3" long travel, 600-800lbs weight

MRA59-A575 - MRA 3-way adj w/resi monotube long travel 3"+ lifts

Dobinsons Pair of Strut Top Plates (SC59-001)

Dobinsons Extended Rear Swaybar End Link Kit

Dobinsons Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms

Dobinsons WA59-522K Adjustable Rear Upper Trailing Arms

Nothing to compare it to.

What lift height do you have now? What are your hub to fender measurements? What front and rear constant accessory weight is on the vehicle?

All that info will be needed to make a comparison.

 

[mysticz]

Nothing to compare it to.



What lift height do you have now? What are your hub to fender measurements? What front and rear constant accessory weight is on the vehicle?



All that info will be needed to make a comparison.

Measurements: Front is 23.5 hub to fender and Rear 24" hub to fender



Constant Weight:



Radflo 2.5 Coilovers with Radflo 2.5 Long Travel

Plate Steel Front Bumper with Winch

Plate Steel Rear Bumper with Dual Swing Out

Full Set Skids including Gas Tank

Rocksliders

Roof Rack (Mounted RTT for Overland Trips Only)

Rear Storage with Fridge



Current Stance:

 

[4Runn1nYota]

Questions about Adj Panhard Bar Vs EIMKeith PCK

Ive been all over, trying to get answers on why I can't have the Dobs Adj Panhard Bar over the EIMKeith PCK?

I figured that's what the Adj Panhard Rod was for. Dobinson recommended it since im doing the LT Kit and doing 3"+ lift. I ordered the Adj Sway Bar links, the Break Line Ext, and the 3" Bumpstop Ext. figured I was all complete.

so what's the big difference over the Adj Panhard Rod and the Correction Kit from EIMKeith?? anyone know? did I make the mistake of ordering the Dobinson Panhard rod??

I appreciate all the input about this if possible.

 

[jcaino]

Ive been all over, trying to get answers on why I can't have the Dobs Adj Panhard Bar over the EIMKeith PCK?

I figured that's what the Adj Panhard Rod was for. Dobinson recommended it since im doing the LT Kit and doing 3"+ lift. I ordered the Adj Sway Bar links, the Break Line Ext, and the 3" Bumpstop Ext. figured I was all complete.

so what's the big difference over the Adj Panhard Rod and the Correction Kit from EIMKeith?? anyone know? did I make the mistake of ordering the Dobinson Panhard rod??

I appreciate all the input about this if possible.

The idea is that you want the panhard closest to level at static height to work best.

When you lift the rig, having a fixed panhard will move the axle to one side...the adjustable panhard bar lets you adjust for that, but won't bring the bar back to level.

Correction kit gives you some adjustment points to bring it to level, and might not need an adjustable bar.

 

[Crikeymike]

Measurements: Front is 23.5 hub to fender and Rear 24" hub to fender



Constant Weight:



Radflo 2.5 Coilovers with Radflo 2.5 Long Travel

Plate Steel Front Bumper with Winch

Plate Steel Rear Bumper with Dual Swing Out

Full Set Skids including Gas Tank

Rocksliders

Roof Rack (Mounted RTT for Overland Trips Only)

Rear Storage with Fridge



Current Stance:

OK, so you're at 3.5" front lift now and about 2" in the rear.

You'll need to change to MRA59-A220 since they're a little longer and better suited to the taller lift you're looking for. The 701V rear coils may end up being a little taller in the rear than you are now.

Everything else looks good

 

[Crikeymike]

Ive been all over, trying to get answers on why I can't have the Dobs Adj Panhard Bar over the EIMKeith PCK?

I figured that's what the Adj Panhard Rod was for. Dobinson recommended it since im doing the LT Kit and doing 3"+ lift. I ordered the Adj Sway Bar links, the Break Line Ext, and the 3" Bumpstop Ext. figured I was all complete.

so what's the big difference over the Adj Panhard Rod and the Correction Kit from EIMKeith?? anyone know? did I make the mistake of ordering the Dobinson Panhard rod??

I appreciate all the input about this if possible.

The idea is that you want the panhard closest to level at static height to work best.

When you lift the rig, having a fixed panhard will move the axle to one side...the adjustable panhard bar lets you adjust for that, but won't bring the bar back to level.

Correction kit gives you some adjustment points to bring it to level, and might not need an adjustable bar.

You hit the nail on the head.

Adjustable panhard rod lets you center the axle, since it's adjustable.
The panhard rod is also much stronger than stock, so it's not going to flex or deflect like a stock one can under heavy abuse.
The EIMKeith PCK is for "flattening out" the rear panhard rod angle. The Dobinsons panhard rod can still work with this, since it's adjustable.

 

[4Runn1nYota]

The idea is that you want the panhard closest to level at static height to work best.

When you lift the rig, having a fixed panhard will move the axle to one side...the adjustable panhard bar lets you adjust for that, but won't bring the bar back to level.

Correction kit gives you some adjustment points to bring it to level, and might not need an adjustable bar.

Thanks for that input.. I had no idea of the PCK until after I ordered the Adj Panhard Bar, and now im stuck with it. Might as well install it. but also going to get the PCK, since its most recommended.. my research was last min, so I didn't get the info I needed in time, because I didn't know I needed more to install. oh well. lol.

 

[4Runn1nYota]

You hit the nail on the head.

Adjustable panhard rod lets you center the axle, since it's adjustable.
The panhard rod is also much stronger than stock, so it's not going to flex or deflect like a stock one can under heavy abuse.
The EIMKeith PCK is for "flattening out" the rear panhard rod angle. The Dobinsons panhard rod can still work with this, since it's adjustable.

Thank you as well! -- This makes me feel better about keeping the Adj. Panhard Rod, and just add the PCK. Someone mentioned both is fine, if I was OCD about the alignment. Im not entirely OCD, but id like to be as close to safety and perfection.

You guys are awesome! I appreciate the replies.

 

[Hi-desertT4R]

Rear upper links

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] I’m looking to replace the upper links in the rear of my 4Runner. Will the WA59-522K adjustable uppers allow pinion adjustment by themselves or will I need upper and lower? I only have budget for upper or lower until my economy is stimulated.

 

[Crikeymike]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION] I’m looking to replace the upper links in the rear of my 4Runner. Will the WA59-522K adjustable uppers allow pinion adjustment by themselves or will I need upper and lower? I only have budget for upper or lower until my economy is stimulated.

Yes, the uppers will. You can make them longer to raise up the pinion angle.

They're sold out and we don't have an ETA on restock yet. Probably sometime in April or maybe later.

 

[Hi-desertT4R]

10-4. I’ll check back periodically. Thank you [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]

 

[mysticz]

OK, so you're at 3.5" front lift now and about 2" in the rear.

You'll need to change to MRA59-A220 since they're a little longer and better suited to the taller lift you're looking for. The 701V rear coils may end up being a little taller in the rear than you are now.

Everything else looks good

The last time I was doing research on rear springs you quote the follow.

"The 701V with a solid 3" of lift should put you at 25" hub to fender in the rear."

So the 701v will add 1 inch more lift to the rear with 600-800lbs, what if I went with the 677v with 400-600lbs? Will the extra weight level it down below 1 inch? Thx

 

[Crikeymike]

The last time I was doing research on rear springs you quote the follow.

"The 701V with a solid 3" of lift should put you at 25" hub to fender in the rear."

So the 701v will add 1 inch more lift to the rear with 600-800lbs, what if I went with the 677v with 400-600lbs? Will the extra weight level it down below 1 inch? Thx

That would be the only next possible step down option and still a long travel coil, but it won't be a full 1" lower most likely. Dobinsons doesn't make 2" rated long travel coils, they're all based around the 3" mark when weight is on them.

For the weight you're carrying, the 701V is the best spring to handle all that, it's just taller than what you want.

All the 2" rear coils are linear rate and can't be used with long travel shocks, they'll fall out.

Maybe some of the other guys on here running the 677V or 701V can reply with their rear weights and hub to fender measurements for comparison.